Front springs

History

History

Well-known member
I was going to try a re-arch of my front springs but now believe I should just replace with new. Looks like snyders only has an import spring available at the moment, I know there was a recent thread asking the same thing but I can’t find it so I’ll ask again, where should I buy a front spring set?? Thanks
 
History said:
I was going to try a re-arch of my front springs but now believe I should just replace with new. Looks like snyders only has an import spring available at the moment, I know there was a recent thread asking the same thing but I can’t find it so I’ll ask again, where should I buy a front spring set?? Thanks
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Because freight is getting so expensive, the closest Model-A parts vendor is likely going to be your best option. Why are you not wanting to re-arch yours??
 
After removing and inspecting them they look to have rode on the axle more than I’d thought and the bushing will not stay in the hole without a shim. If that can be corrected at a spring shop then I’m ok using them. Just ignorance on my part to be honest.
 
I’m not far from Boone, north east above Wilkes county in Alleghany county. I’ll give the spring company another call and see what the costs would be. They quoted $35 per spring to arch and I guess I need to clarify if that meant each individual spring in the pack which I believe it does.
 
In my opinion, re-arcing a leaf spring is a temporary fix unless the re-arced spring is heat treated. To start, cracked / worn leaves need to be replaced. The spring leaves need to be individually stress relieved to remove the sagged spring's memory, re-arced hot and heat treated to restore its retain its new shape memory.

If it were my Model "A", I would opt for a new spring made by a USA spring shop.
 
I've heard way more grief then good with re-arched springs. I'd be checking with Posies up in Hummelstown PA. I just got front and rear from them. I'm not sure if they have standard eye or only reversed eye but they show a standard eye in their catalogue. I'm sure their price is better then re-arching.
Warren
 
I had been searching for front springs. It seems all of the American made springs, have thicker leaves, thus less leaves than the Ford spring. Also the ends are not tapered. I may be wrong, but check with the supplier to make sure what you want is what you are getting. I ordered some from Brattons and they have a spring pretty close to correct. If you find the perfect spring please post.
 
I agree with those who have said that re arching a spring is temporary at best. It is highly likely that at lest one leaf will break as you try to do it, then where are you but in need of a new one?
As for a US made one - there is nothing special about something made in the US. I have had some good stuff and some bad from there. It all comes down to how well quality is monitored by the seller. If a US vendor isn't good enough to make sure what he buys from an overseas supplier is good quality, IMO, they are no better than those who make poor quality in the US.
By my experience, your best bet is to have a professional spring works re arch your current spring but the are becoming further part these days.
 
A typical cars suspension moves 1,500 times per mile. I don’t know how someone figured that out but that’s what I have read.

Anyway, do the math. Best to replace your springs than rebuilding them.

Enjoy.
 
What about the spring snyders has? Mine is a 12 leaf, the one they offer is 10. I called Eaton spring in Detroit and theirs is also a 10 leaf but about twice as much as snyders and a three week wait for them to manufacture it. It costs $350 including shipping. I need to get this ordered tomorrow, what do you fellows think????
 
I don't know anything about your car, but if getting it on the road is the priority, i would grab an inexpensive one from snyders. If you hate it, you can swap it out later, after you've had time to source exactly what you want.
 
Getting it on the road isn’t such a priority, I’ve borrowed tools that I want to return and it’s holding me up. Just trying to do the right thing and not exactly sure what it is.
 
Several folks have recommended A-Springs. It was reported elsewhere that the proprietor put the business on hiatus several months ago due to inability to get raw materials. I haven't heard that it's back up.
 
Here is a URL for a page that needs to be read by anyone looking for early Ford springs.
Look at the drawings and try to understand what the proper shape of a Ford spring should be. Pay close attention to the TAPER and ROUND CONTOUR of the ends of the leaves. Learn what type of steel and the degree of heat treat a spring you buy is so you can ask questions of the maker. If you can't understand or can't get good answers, move on.
There are very few spring shops left anywhere that WILL make a GOOD spring. Many know how but the public today is mostly satisfied by second hand oats.

https://fuelcurve.com/hollywood-spring-axle/
 
I should add,,, the business I spoke to about re-arching my spring would only do a cold bend, no heat treat. The other is,, a early 1930 sport coupe with a 12 leaf front spring??? What legitimate reason could explain the need for that?? I was told the 12 leaf was used late 30-31 for heavy duty conditions or use. I guess it could have been added to a car that felt soft???

Thanks for the link Pete. Imagine having that shop in Hollywood in the time they did, what fun it would have been, also no rust on springs or the car or anything, ever.
 
I suggest that you call Posie’s and Talk to Chris or Todd. They know their stuff, have several options for front springs, make a spring calleda Super Slide that has teflon sliders in them (much better ride), stock height, lowering spring, etc.. I have their springs front and rear and are very happy with them. Also, I wouldn’t worry too much about the number of leaves a spring pack has, they weren’t all the same when new. It is quite acceptable to remove some leaves from the spring pack to make for a softer ride.
 
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