Front spring shackle stud removal from perch?

AzBob

AzBob

Senior Member
I am familiar with the Model A type spring shackle with the shackle studs running through steel or bronze bushings.

The '34 appears to be different. The stud has a square just beneath the threads and there are rubber flanges or bushings surrounding the stud. Does not respond to hammer taps. How best to remove?


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AzBob said:
I am familiar with the Model A type spring shackle with the shackle studs running through steel or bronze bushings.

The '34 appears to be different. The stud has a square just beneath the threads and there are rubber flanges or bushings surrounding the stud. Does not respond to hammer taps. How best to remove?
Click to expand...
592534
 
There is a special tool that threads onto the stud end and pulls it out. When you don't have that you use a very long 1/8" drill bit to eventually get rid of all the rubber, which takes all day to do. Old school you can burn out the rubber with a torch, but I would not do that on an assembled car. There will still be a thin metal sleeve left behind. Use a hack saw blade to cut through it so you can get it out. Not an easy job at all. I'd try and cobble together a puller tool using a coupling nut, some round tube and a bolt, nut and washer. If you messed up the threads with the hammer you might be in for a day long struggle.
 
The Art Doctor said:
There is a special tool that threads onto the stud end and pulls it out. When you don't have that you use a very long 1/8" drill bit to eventually get rid of all the rubber, which takes all day to do. Old school you can burn out the rubber with a torch, but I would not do that on an assembled car. There will still be a thin metal sleeve left behind. Use a hack saw blade to cut through it so you can get it out. Not an easy job at all. I'd try and cobble together a puller tool using a coupling nut, some round tube and a bolt, nut and washer. If you messed up the threads with the hammer you might be in for a day long struggle.
Click to expand...


The first few threads were already messed up. I screwed a nut on the end to try tapping and I quickly realized nothing was moving. Going to fabricate a puller tool to try extraction before going the drill route. Thanks
 
Success! Both left and right perch shackle studs and rubber bushings out. All within an afternoon. :)


Did a little machine work and fabricated a puller shown below. The inner piece screws onto the stud. The outer pipe piece is placed over it and the nut is screwed down until the stud and rubber is extracted. I left the nut on the back side. It pulled out the rubber bushing along with the stud.


I honestly did not see any evidence of the thin metal sleeves Art Doctor mentions. The perch hole diameter is .720"


Now the question is, what do I replace them with? I see there are several shackle styles to choose from. Urethane bushings etc. Recommendations?


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AzBob said:
Success! Both left and right perch shackle studs and rubber bushings out. All within an afternoon. :)


Did a little machine work and fabricated a puller shown below. The inner piece screws onto the stud. The outer pipe piece is placed over it and the nut is screwed down until the stud and rubber is extracted. I left the nut on the back side. It pulled out the rubber bushing along with the stud.


I honestly did not see any evidence of the thin metal sleeves Art Doctor mentions. The perch hole diameter is .720"


Now the question is, what do I replace them with? I see there are several shackle styles to choose from. Urethane bushings etc. Recommendations?
Click to expand...
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Thanks deuce lover for the Third Gen and Ebay lead.

Third Gen has two types. One has polyurethane bushings for both spring and perch. The other is a can type with rubber encapsulated stud inside for the spring eye only per their information. I am assuming with the can type, the upper or spring perch bushings one would use the polyurethane.

Anyone know why one would want to use this combination? Could be I am overthinking this and just go with the polyurethane set.


All right, with a little more digging, it appears the vulcanized rubber bushings might be a better choice. Not able to find any for the perch bushing hole. Anyone?


Screenshot 2026-10-20 at 8.16.52 PM.jpg

Screenshot 2026-10-20 at 8.17.05 PM.jpg
 
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AzBob said:
Thanks deuce lover for the Third Gen and Ebay lead.

Third Gen has two types. One has polyurethane bushings for both spring and perch. The other is a can type with rubber encapsulated stud inside for the spring eye only per their information. I am assuming with the can type, the upper or spring perch bushings one would use the polyurethane.

Anyone know why one would want to use this combination? Could be I am overthinking this and just go with the polyurethane set.


All right, with a little more digging, it appears the vulcanized rubber bushings might be a better choice. Not able to find any for the perch bushing hole. Anyone?
Click to expand...
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Nice job on the tool, I bet there would be a market for that and it would extend across the 1928-1934 Model years.

This is a job I’ll need to do in the future so I’m a customer if you decide to make more of them.
 
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I bought the urethane bushings from Third Gen. They install easy just by pushing them in by hand. It’s nice to take advantage of modern automotive improvements.
 
Once you use the Poly urethane ones you won't go back. The sets we sell use slotted hex nuts, and the original type shackle bars so that once installed they look original.
 
Thanks all for the replies and recommendations. Thanks 35fordtn and Fritz. Will be ordering the Third Gen polyurethane ones. :)
 
WRA said:
Nice job on the tool, I bet there would be a market for that and it would extend across the 1928-1934 Model years.

This is a job I’ll need to do in the future so I’m a customer if you decide to make more of them.
Click to expand...

WRA, the tool I made is very easy to make if one has access to a lathe, a 3.5" length of 3/4" pipe. (1.050" outside diameter) a 4" length of 5/8" steel round stock drilled and tapped with a 3/8"-24 thread. The opposite end was turned down to 1/2" for a 1/2"-20 thread 2" long.

If one does not have access to a lathe, the center pull piece could be made from all thread using a coupling nut to engage the stud as The Art Doctor described in post #3.
 
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AzBob said:
Success!


I honestly did not see any evidence of the thin metal sleeves Art Doctor mentions. The perch hole diameter is .720"
Click to expand...


Perch bolt eye hole diameter is normally 3/4"; sounds like there are still sleeves in there.

From your picture looks like you got the stud and the rubber stuff.
 
rich b said:
Perch bolt eye hole diameter is normally 3/4"; sounds like there are still sleeves in there.

From your picture looks like you got the stud and the rubber stuff.
Click to expand...

Thanks, upon closer investigation, yes, the thin wall sleeves are still in there.
Now getting those out is going to be a challenge.
 
I use the torch. That thin bushing preheats so fast you can pull the trigger and cut a slot in it so quick you'll be amazed
 
I've used a hacksaw to cut the sleeve and then a metal chisel with half-round end to tap and get under the sleeve the then a hammer to collapse the edge of the sleeve and hammer the sleeve out.

Pretty easy job and no flames under the car. ;)

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