Front spring question

[JohninKuranda]

Before taking out my Model A today, I thought I would do a visual inspection of the front end. Very suprised to see that all of the leaves bar the base leaf have skewed off-centre. The other side is the other way and I can see where the leaves are rubbing against the modern shock absorbers. I assume that this is not the way that they are supposed to be.

Thoughts on my next steps?

John

 

[J Franklin]

There should be spring clips about halfway from the eyes and center-bolt. Hammer the leaves back into alignment and make sure the clips are tight.

 

[JohninKuranda]

There should be spring clips about halfway from the eyes and center-bolt. Hammer the leaves back into alignment and make sure the clips are tight.

Yes, I realise that now after spending some time this afternoon with my old mate Doctor Google! This also explains the steering issue last weekend. This car is a constant learning experience for sure.

 

[nkaminar]

The torque specification for the mounting in the center is 100 foot-pounds.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

The torque specification for the mounting in the center is 100 foot-pounds.

Are you referring to the center bolt? I didn’t realize it was that high. It is a 5/16” bolt. Or are you talking about the u-bolts?

 

[alexiskai]

Are you referring to the center bolt? I didn’t realize it was that high. It is a 5/16” bolt. Or are you talking about the u-bolts?

He’s talking about the U-bolts that clamp over the crank guide, I think. The center bolt doesn’t have a torque spec, I think partly because you’re supposed to cut the bolt off and peen it over to secure the nut.

 

[JayJay]

The torque specification for the mounting in the center is 100 foot-pounds.

I predict that you’ll either snap or strip that center bolt if you try to get 100 ft-lb on it. I think YB has it correct, it’s the U-bolts, not the center bolt.

 

[gdmn852]

Hello, the center bolt has a square head that is supposed to be located into a mating square hole in the frame cross member,be sure that is back in location as it centers the spring.

 

[figment]

If the spring leaves are moving to the right or left and the main leaf is connected on both ends I would assume that the center bolt has broken ?

 

[gdmn852]

Hello again, if the center bolt breaks, the upper leaf springs will shift around and separate,I saw one with the center bolt broken but was still in the location but leafs would move around, Fast way to check would be remove the retaining clips from cross member ,then jack up car by the frame, once weight is off spring, they can be checked for looseness . Also use caution working with the springs, a lot of tension on them .If center bolt is broken sometimes the bottom bolt will be missing with just the top part still stuck in upper part of leafs .

 

[midgetracer]

Not a lot of tension on the front spring. Rear spring is where the caution is advisable. Lots of tension there.

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

When replacing the two front spring clips, do not tighten them to the max. The clips should have a "tooth" hanging down from the center that goes into a hole in one of the spring leaves on each side. This tang keeps the clip from sliding towards the end and eventually rattling around over the main leaf. Many repo springs do the not have this hole and are bound together by a padded non-adjustable clip crimped into place. The ends of these leaves are often squared instead of angle-cut as original.
The reason you do not want to over-tighten the spring clip bolts is because part of the spring's action involves the leaves sliding across each other as the spring flexes. If the clips are secured too tightly, this reduces or eliminates that action and compromises the spring's ability to soften the shock caused by bumps and potholes in the road. Just tighten the clip bolt's nut enough to keep the clip from rotating on the spring leaf stack. Of course, this advice applies to the rear spring, too.
If the poster decides to remove his spring to lube or replace a broken center bolt or even a broken leaf or two (Usually caused by lack of spring clips or a non-hardened center spring bolt), he might as well take the opportunity to perform a few upgrades Ford forgot to do in order to make the spring function better. Attached are a couple views of past spring leaf rebuildings I have done. I grind smooth the divots in the spring tops caused by the leaves above digging into the ones beneath. These gouges restrict the spring leaves' ability to slide across each other to create the springing action. I also grind the leaf tips on the undersides of the ends at an 45 degree angle to reduce the tendency for future gouge creations. Finally, I spray a graphite lube on the bottoms of all leaves except the bottom one (the main leaf). A semi-gloss black is sprayed over the tops of the leaves. Using a new hardened center bolt, the whole shebang comes together easily and is re-attached to the spring perches using a dedicated front spring spreader.
The preceding is a time-consuming rebuilding step, but anyone can do it, provided he has a good spring spreader.
Marshall

 

[J Franklin]

If you don't have a spring spreader for install, use a block of 2X4. after affixing one side to the perch slide the other on a block placed on top of the axle. When the eye of the spring lines with the perch, install that side shackle.