Front spring perch bushings

S

Standing Elk

Senior Member
Getting ready to replace the front spring perch bushings after having my spring re tempered and re arched. Can you usually just drive the bushings out or do you need to be split them with a hack saw blade? I will find out when I go to do it but was just curious. Thanks
 
I was able to drive mine out but others may differ. If they don't come out somewhat easily don't hammer the hell out of the spring perch because you might damage it.
 
I did what Will did to install my bushings. They can be removed the same way by using a spacer like a section of pipe for the bushing to be pushed into.
 
It depends on how worn the bushings are, if you have meat left to drive them out. I think the diameter is to small for a hack saw blade, you could roll the edges to the center and drive it out. With the spring off and a vise use a long socket the same size as the bushing and then squeeze the bushing into a long large socket, you will have to have helping hands
 
Big hammer said:
It depends on how worn the bushings are, if you have meat left to drive them out. I think the diameter is to small for a hack saw blade, you could roll the edges to the center and drive it out. With the spring off and a vise use a long socket the same size as the bushing and then squeeze the bushing into a long large socket, you will have to have helping hands
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Yes, most bushings are being replaced because they are severely worn. For us, splitting them is much faster and easier.
 
Use Delrin bushings for replacements as have been discussed many times here and on the early V8 forum, and you will never have to replace them again.
 

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Pete said:
Use Delrin bushings for replacements as have been discussed many times here and on the early V8 forum, and you will never have to replace them again.
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Hmmm, In the off road world, not so much.

The opinion of some reviewers:

"Delrin is the more well known-name for polyoxymethylene, and it’s used for low-budget parts. This material is a hard, stiff, and smooth plastic—which is OK, but it is prone to wear. They need replaced often and if you ride hard, you’ll find that they’re not cut out for you at all. If you’ve got Delrin, you should upgrade the first chance you get."
 
The Master Cylinder said:
Hmmm, In the off road world, not so much.

The opinion of some reviewers:

"Delrin is the more well known-name for polyoxymethylene, and it’s used for low-budget parts. This material is a hard, stiff, and smooth plastic—which is OK, but it is prone to wear. They need replaced often and if you ride hard, you’ll find that they’re not cut out for you at all. If you’ve got Delrin, you should upgrade the first chance you get."
Click to expand...

I should have said "moly filled Delrin". I assumed it was known because it has been hashed over so many times on here.
If they are kept greased as ANY bearing material should be, I haven't seen any I did wear out and some are 30 years old.
Oh, by the way, you won't think it is low budget when you find out the price of the stuff....lol
 
Thanks everyone, I got them out fairly easily. I had a transfer punch that was the right size to use to drive them out. I put a little heat on one side of the housing and they came out without much trouble. Thanks again.
 
I have never had a problem using a standard hack saw blade in them or T's. T fronts are the same ID, A's are just a little longer.
 
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