Front spring liners?

John Mc

John Mc

Senior Member
Guys, I've started re-assemble the front end on my '39 1/2 ton. Whats the best material I should use as a lubricant for the front springs? Teflon, lithium grease, nothing? What did Henry do?
I've cleaned them, replaced one cracked one and will paint them with a gloss rustoleum enamel brushed on.
Thanks for all input.
 
Spring liners may make it sit higher. A good coat of black paint with thick axle bearing grease between leaves worked for me.
 
John Deer makes a graffite(not spell right) paint that can be painted in between the leafs and will last a hell of a long time. Used it on several springs. Can also be purchased at WW Graingers. Make sure you grind the bottoms of each the spring edges smooth so the end don't wear into the the next spring. This product will not get thinner with the heat from the under carriage. John MC give me a post and we can connect and I'll give you some......
 
Do NOT paint anything! That alone can raise the spring rate 30 lb. and that is NOT the way you want to go for a soft ride.
Then like GMC1941 says, grind the wear ledge off at the outer ends.
You can spray both sides of the leaves with the John Deere graphite/moly dry lube..There are many other brands of dry spray lube too.
The liner material can be either Teflon or UHMW strips 1/16 thick.
I use UHMW because it works as good as Teflon but is about 1/3 the price.
This stuff is available at most large plastic supply companies.
The increase in total spring thickness is compensated for by removing the top 2 short leaves.
After the spring is assembled and on the car, I wrap them with #88 plastic electrical tape to keep dirt out..Wrap from the u-bolt to the eye and right over the U-clip.
If you don't like the looks of tape, there are ORIGINAL Ford spring covers still around but they may not suit your pocketbook.
 
I have used the liners, and the ride was terrific, but it really increases the height of the spring pack. On my Model A, I blasted the springs, ground out the wear areas, assembled, and painted the edges. I then took them apart and used the graphite spray, several cotes on all the flat surfaces. The spring is very smooth.
 
Pete said:
Do NOT paint anything! That alone can raise the spring rate 30 lb. and that is NOT the way you want to go for a soft ride.
Then like GMC1941 says, grind the wear ledge off at the outer ends.
You can spray both sides of the leaves with the John Deere graphite/moly dry lube..There are many other brands of dry spray lube too.
The liner material can be either Teflon or UHMW strips 1/16 thick.
I use UHMW because it works as good as Teflon but is about 1/3 the price.
This stuff is available at most large plastic supply companies.
The increase in total spring thickness is compensated for by removing the top 2 short leaves.
After the spring is assembled and on the car, I wrap them with #88 plastic electrical tape to keep dirt out..Wrap from the u-bolt to the eye and right over the U-clip.
If you don't like the looks of tape, there are ORIGINAL Ford spring covers still around but they may not suit your pocketbook.
Click to expand...

Do NOT paint anything! That alone can raise the spring rate 30 lb. and that is NOT the way you want to go for a soft ride.
Pete, How do you know the above statement to be true. Not arguing. Just curious.
 
19Fordy said:
Do NOT paint anything! That alone can raise the spring rate 30 lb. and that is NOT the way you want to go for a soft ride.
Pete, How do you know the above statement to be true. Not arguing. Just curious.
Click to expand...

Actual static load tests on several cars (early Fords).
You would be surprised how a small change in the spring configuration changes the rate.
It is quite possible to get 100 lb per inch on a front spring and that equates to a very comfortable ride. The shocks need to be tailored to the ride you want also. For the average person, this is a trial and error process. Luckily there are enough used shocks available on ebay so it isn't too expensive.
 
I used a product called 'slip plate'. It's made for farm machinery, combines where two metal surfaces rub together. It comes in aerosol can or in cans that can be brushed on. Has worked for me.

Google it for sources.
 
Pete said:
Actual static load tests on several cars (early Fords).
You would be surprised how a small change in the spring configuration changes the rate.
It is quite possible to get 100 lb per inch on a front spring and that equates to a very comfortable ride. The shocks need to be tailored to the ride you want also. For the average person, this is a trial and error process. Luckily there are enough used shocks available on ebay so it isn't too expensive.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Pete. I never realized that painting a spring would have such an effect. JIM
 
Did anybody else ever hear about putting a needle from a needle bearing between the leaves with a dab of axle grease? I was shown this as a boy and told it allowed the leaves to roll instead of slide across each other. This was from an old mechanic who specialized in T's in Salem, Va. I asked about them rolling out and the mechanic said they would stay in place for a good while. Just curious if anyone had seen a similar trick.
 
cuzncletus said:
Did anybody else ever hear about putting a needle from a needle bearing between the leaves with a dab of axle grease? I was shown this as a boy and told it allowed the leaves to roll instead of slide across each other. This was from an old mechanic who specialized in T's in Salem, Va. I asked about them rolling out and the mechanic said they would stay in place for a good while. Just curious if anyone had seen a similar trick.
Click to expand...

Yes;;) We use to us penny's back when they were real copper, made for a good ride, I do like the needle idea too,:cool: new to me...OLD....BILL
 
AL, the V-8 club local chapter is held on Tuesday, the 21st - not the 14th like I wrote earlier at Arlingotn Hts Rd. & Palatine Rd. More info needed? email me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top