Front Spring Center Bolt

T

TagMan

Well-known member
I received a repro front spring center bolt from a vendor and the square head is only 7/32" height (original is 5/16"), the bolt diameter is .024" smaller than O.E. and the nut is only thick enough (.165") for about 3 threads of engagement. :eek:

Does anyone make a center bolt in the correct dimensions?
 
TJ, thanks very much. Sounds like he's got the correct stuff. Hard to believe what some vendors are passing off as reproduction parts.
 
1931 flamingo said:
Tagman: And your vendor was???? Let the rest of us know so we don't make a mistake.
Paul in CT
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Yeah, I would like to know too. It could save us money. If we quit buying crap that we can't use maybe they will get the message. It couldn't cost more to have made the bolt the proper dimensions.
 
I got, what appears to me to be, the incorrect bolt from MAC's. It was only $1.50 which should have warned me. I'd gladly pay $5.00 for the correct one. Why peddle crap that isn't correct?
 
Re: Front Spring Center Bolt - Follow Up

Just a follow up to my original post.

Maybe this is a common 'fix', but I'm new to early Fords, so maybe I'm 'reinventing the wheel' here, but in any case, I thought I'd share:

I bought another center bolt from Ray Nacewicz. My first dealings with him and he was a pleasure to work with. He forwarned me that the center bolt he sells does not have the stock "high head". I ordered several items and included the center bolt.

When I installed the bolt, the head would not go through the cross member like it should, so I considered several options. I decided to try drilling out the threads of a like-sized square nut, so it could be pressed onto the shaft of the screw.

I reassembled the center bolt and installed the spring pack. The head of the bolt now stands a bit above the cross member, like the original did, and the added spacer nut doesn't show.

Here's a few pics. (Note: I believe the clamping U-bolts should not be plated, but this is my personnal prefference.)

The added nut spacer:
CenterBolt002.jpg


As assembled:
CenterBolt003.jpg

CenterBolt004.jpg
 
I know restrorers need to have an authentic looking center bolt so you are stuck with Chinese junk if you buy a new one unless you have a machine shop and make one from 4340 bar stock.
I have seen way too many broken center bolts over the years so not being into show car restorations, I use grade 9 socket head bolts and make the hole in the cross member fit the bolt head. Grade 9's are 180 ksi tensile and I doubt one would ever break unless on purpose.
 
After the spring is installed, I doubt the center bolt really does much, considering the hefty clamps & U-bolts securing the spring pack to the cross member. I believe the real purpose for the center bolt is to hold the spring pack together and center it in the cross member during assembly.

Just my 2¢
 
Pete said:
I know restrorers need to have an authentic looking center bolt so you are stuck with Chinese junk if you buy a new one unless you have a machine shop and make one from 4340 bar stock.
I have seen way too many broken center bolts over the years so not being into show car restorations, I use grade 9 socket head bolts and make the hole in the cross member fit the bolt head. Grade 9's are 180 ksi tensile and I doubt one would ever break unless on purpose.
Click to expand...

Actually, I think Henry used lots of fasteners made of low carbon (grade 5) steel so that they would stretch and bend rather than just "snap" and break off upon impact. It would be interesting to know the type of steel those OEM bolts are made of.
 
Grade 8 (or 9) bolts will hold long after grade 5 bolts (of the same size) stretch and snap or shear. Look up the tensile strength & shear strength of bolts. Grade 8 are not more brittle than grade 5 bolts.
 
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