Front spring broken

Werner

Werner

Well-known member
Hallo und guten Tag!

I'm afraid that the front spring on my roadster may suddenly become weak or one leaf has broken. Then the spring bearing eyes rests now with the shackles on the axle beam.


Can a member please tell me the distance between the spring eye and the axle beam when the car has mounted a fresh new spring?


Thanks in advance,
Werner
 

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Werner

I don't know what that spec would be, if there is one.

So, I went and measured my old worn probably original front spring.
Left: 1/2 "
Right 3/8"
within 1/16"
 
According to Les Andrews red book, from the bottom of the of the spring eye to top of the axle there should be a minimum of 1/4 inch clearance.
 
O. K., that's good advices!



The spring rests on the axle beam with no air gap in between. If I lift the car on the middle of the spring assembly, a 1/2 " gap becomes free. I levered the shackle bolts with a long tire iron, there is no significant gap wear.



I will order the axle spring from Don Snyder according to the original drawing. (Never China Parts.) Unfortunately must buy also the spring compressor, you can't borrow something like that here, far too seldom.
 
Hello Werner,


that looks like it's (at least partly) a set of faulty spring shackle bushings. From what I remember the spring shackle should be relatively concentrical to the round shoulder of the cast-iron spring perch. Had the same problem (my bushings were completely worn through!) and the spring laid on the axle. After changing the bushings and using new shackels there's a 10 or 15 mm gap between axle and spring.



I can send you the tool too if you'd like, don't need it for the next few weeks anyway.
Just write me an email, I check them daily. ;)


Greetings,


Daniel
 
Werner, you do not need a spring compressor for the front spring.
Into the half inch gap you made between spring eye and axle place a piece of greased timber. Jack up the axle until the shackle has no tension and remove that side safely. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. Repeat for the other side.
The grease is to allow the eye to slide on ghe wood.
I thought this procedure was in one of Les Andrews books.
SAJ in NZ
 
SAJ said:
I thought this procedure was in one of Les Andrews books.
Click to expand...




It is, and it does work. I've done it like that back when I changed the spring shackle bushings too.
For the installation of the new king pins some time after that I ordered the spring spreader though and, in my humble opinion, it makes it a lot easier and also a bit safer than using the axle.
 
N' evening all together,



I removed the spring as described in Andrew Red without a spreader. But it was a tough business, the block of wood broke twice and there was a loud bang.

The spring's wear rate is actually exceeded according to Andrew's measurement specifications in both dimensions.



The advice from Bill G. is very correct, the bushes of the shackles are extremely loosely worn!



Katy: Yes, the spring clips have a lot of space. But I received them two years ago as they are from Snyders for the front spring. I buyed it just again.
 

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I changed mine with a pair of jack stands, and a floor jack. A couple chunks of 2 x 4s, and a hammer to knock them out, and a long drift punch.

I had a leaf break in mine. Put another leaf in. Another local club member had a spring we took a leaf out of. Waste of time. Another one soon broke. If a leaf breaks, just change it. Always a good idea to change anything else in that area that needs service, so take note of everything while you have it apart.

FYI: an improved front spring may be a bit thicker, and may not let you use cotter pins on the U-bolts. You can machine the plates down, or just get some toothed, or lock washers.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Looks like you caught it just in time before it started wearing out your spring perches.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately this is not the case, both sides are already clearly worn out. At the bottom of the perchs eye, 2/10 " material is missing in the front of the hole. When the steel sleeve is pressed in, there is still an oval gap with 1/10 " at the bottom.

I will compensate this with liquid steel epoxy and then press in the steel sleeve with the slot facing upwards.
 

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Werner said:
Unfortunately this is not the case, both sides are already clearly worn out. At the bottom of the perchs eye, 2/10 " material is missing in the front of the hole. When the steel sleeve is pressed in, there is still an oval gap with 1/10 " at the bottom.

I will compensate this with liquid steel epoxy and then press in the steel sleeve with the slot facing upwards.
Click to expand...

Don't use the epoxy. Install the bushings and clamp into the original location. Use a MIG welder and add weld to fill the voids where the perch has been worn. Grind and metalfinish the weldment to the correct shape. Then use a reamer to true the bushing where the Spring Hanger shank will easily glide into the bushing.
 
Yes do what Brent says. It is very common for that to happen to spring perches from everything wearing out. Best to do it the right way.
 
In this case I can no longer do this with build-up welding, because in the long past ago the steel sleeve was worn through deep into the perch to a length of more than 1/2 " ovality. Therefore I fill the base with hard iron putty epoixid masse. The supporting area is sufficiently large.

Unfortunately, that will remain a compromise. (But it's not a bad botch.)
 
Hello,

I have one more question. A cutted spring leaf about 12 " long has been (bad) welded into the top of the housing for the leaf spring - cross member-. 10 leafes were mounted.

I have no idea why this was done. Does anyone know what could be the matter point?
 

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