Front spindle nut torque

B

buddyholley19

Member
In the red book by Les Andrews on the speciation card page 1 it says the rear axle nut torque is 100 foot lbs no specs for the front spindle nut is it the same ? Thanks in advance
 
I tighten the front to 0 endplay in the bearings... If I have to go a hair more for the cotter I do it...I will not back it off to get the cotter in...do this as you spin the drum..
I use a channel locks to grag the nut and work it back and forth....

Others do it differently such as leaving looseness / end play in the bearings....

Now you'll hear all the other methods ... Very subjective topic....
 
The front wheel bearing nut is tightened to feel, basically finger tight.
I like them pulled up to just remove play in bearings.

A's Always
Dave
 
do not leave any play in the bearing, to do so will allow the taper rollers in the bearing to turn a little side ways and run side ways in the race, thus causing the bearings to wear on the cage holding them and will speed up wear, most bearing are designed to have a small amount of torque applied to them #1 to 2 #, tighten the nut to its snug on the bearing, spin drum then back off spin drum again, tighten nut till there is no play in bearing install the cotter key, cut off long leg even with the nut bent short leg up over spindle and nut, doing it that way you will only have to straighten one leg of the key to remove it
 
The comparison between front and back is that the rear axle nut does not affect the fit of the wheel bearing. The front bearing, for lack of a better word "floats" between the spindle and the race. Many folks tighten the nut to the point that the front hub grease retainer washer is difficult to push side to side with a screwdriver and then backed off a small amount so the bearing has "float play" in it. By backed off I mean a castle space or two.
 
I've always tightened with channel locks well beyond tight. Then I back off and retighten by hand. I will go to to next notch to get the cotter pin in.
Terry
 
NO, NO, NO it is not the same as the rear. The other posts are correct. One of the guys in our club tightened the nut to about 100 ft lbs. Drove only a little way before the bearing welded itself to the spindle.

Charlie Stephens
 
Tightening the front bearing too tight can result in splitting the outer race and ruining the hub. I have seen many hubs ruined this way. Follow the above advice.
 
Mitch//pa said:
I tighten the front to 0 endplay in the bearings... If I have to go a hair more for the cotter I do it...I will not back it off to get the cotter in...do this as you spin the drum..
I use a channel locks to grag the nut and work it back and forth....

Others do it differently such as leaving looseness / end play in the bearings....

Now you'll hear all the other methods ... Very subjective topic....
Click to expand...

Many thanks
 
Big hammer said:
On the assembly line I wonder what tool and the procedure they used?
Click to expand...

There were no torque wrenches then so we know they did not torque to a specific reading. ;)

More then likely the same way they mentioned above, tightened, spin to seat, loosen and retighten to hand tight.
 
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