Front Oil Pan Seal gone bad...

moldybrain38

moldybrain38

Junior Member
Suspect the front oil pan seal has gone bad on our '38 pickup- lost a few quarts my last outing and there is quite a bit of oil around front of pan, spring U bolts, axle, etc.... Is there an easy remedy without replacing it? If not, how far does the front end have to be removed to get the job done? I do have the 37/38 Engine & Chassis Repair Manual which does describe how to remove oil pan. Replace with rope or modern? Anyone with experience or suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
What cmbrucew said plus check the breather where you put the oil in for being plugged. Sounds like you might be building up crankcase pressure. You might want to consider a pcv system.
 
replaced mine without removing the oil pan. loosened a few bolts on the front did not even pull the pan down, did thid to just gain a little give. I used a rope type seal and formed it in the cam gear cover, started it in the lower groove and applied pressure as I rotated the crank by hand-surprised me as it went right in. but by the description I would make sure the engine is breathing as stated above as it appears to be building pressure in the block
 
Pull the crank pulley off and examine the seal surface for wear. There should be groves on the seal surface to force oil back to the pan.
Stewart
 
All,
I am not familiar with the road draft tube. Does a '38 have one? Where? If not, doesn't the dipstick tube offer relief from pressure buildup? It certainly is not a tight fit.
Fill Breather seems fine.
Don't see that running a quart low would help, lost more than that anyway.
Thanks
 
Moldy
Six cylinder uses road draft tubes, right rear of engine. V-8 has the vent at the rear of valve cover with a breather cap. Breathers are serviced by washing with kerosene, or mineral spirits until the screen is clean.
Bruce
 
is it a 38 engine? if so there is a road draft "tube" of sorts on the front right (PS) of block. make sure it has not been covered over by dirt -this tube is suppossed to help creat a draft to remove the moisture fog from within the engine-the other end being the oil fill cap
 
The best front seal is the one piece rubber lip seal. C&G sells it as B-6700-$, $19. The old rope seals, even when presoaked and properly installed with the ends sealed, almost always seep. Be sure the neck of the crank pulley where the seal rides is not worn or damaged.
 
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