front motor yoke problem

C

cee eee

Junior Member
I got my motor in the only thing that isn't lining up to bolt on is the front yoke from Snyder's is about 1 in away from the holes in the block. won't bulge over to bolt up' rear and everthing elst is good'
 
i recently ran across an article regarding repop front yoke springs being too long, and had to be ground off shorter. i'll try to find the source, and get back to you.
 
Make sure the mount is correct and the coil sprigs and flat spring is orientated correctly.
It is true some repro springs are too stiff
The brass bushing was eliminated in '29, so unless you have a point car I would use the flat washer as per the service bulletins.
Check out the front engine mount in the service bulletins for good visuals.
It is true that the repro yoke is a little thicker. I've serviced cars with them and haven't had an issue with the pulleys that have been on them yet
It is true that the pulley clearance is close. There are issues as Brent and others have said that can cause the pulley to be closer than normal .. Slinger missing, bad replacement pulley, etc .

You might post a photo on the forum for a visual of what you have
Larry Shepard
 
Larry beat me to it, but I was also hoping for a picture. I haven't had a problem with the repro front yoke either. And I've never had a problem with the front motor mount spring kit.

Is the motor bolted tight to the ******, and the driveshaft coupled to the ******?
 
Had pretty much the same problem. I suggest removing the 4 rear mount bolts and lift the engine - need to take the throttle bracket off from inside. Grease or oil the mount pads on the frame, tops and engine sides. Mount the yolk to the engine and turn the engine over to check that the pulley is not rubbing on the yolk on ANY of the 3 spokes. Remove the yolk and drop the engine back in while tapping forward on both engine mount pads on the frame from underneath and somehow attempting to force the engine forward from inside. It should now be close enough to mount the yolk to the frame and tighten to just fit the cotter key on the bottom. Then start the yolk bolts to the engine while continuing to tap the mount pads and wedging the engine forward to tighten the yolk to engine bolts. If the yolk touches the rear flange of the cross member before the yolk bolts are tight beat the flange aft just a tad to get a little clearence. It worked for me - some extra hands will really help.

John
 
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