Front Motor mount

M

Mort

Senior Member
In the process of working on my 31 coupe. The front motor mount appears to be missing the arched bar that should be there and who knows what else. I have all the replacement parts but just need to get the yoke off to do it. I don't see anywhere where is says to remove the crankshaft pulley and it seems almost impossible to remove the springs and bolts from the mount with the pulley in place. The radiator is off along with generator etc. (I am also doing a head gasket) How is it done? If I have to remove the crank pulley, can I jack up the engine far enough to get a 1 3/8 socket on the nut? I have read in some old forum posts to remove the rear motor mounts but how far can I jack up the front before those have to be removed. That is if I have to remove the crank pulley at all.
Thanks
Mort
 
Mort,
You shouldn't have to remove the crank pulley. You should loosen the rear motor mount bolts (the bolts that screw into the flywheel housing). You can jack the front of the motor without loosening the bolts (don't ask how I know), but you risk cracking the mounts. loosen the 4 bolts enough to allow the motor to pivot. You don't have to remove them.
Once the bolts are loose put a 2x4 or 2x6 on your floor jack and jack up the front end of the motor. You should be able to get it high enough to replace the coil springs and the flat springs. It will be tight, but it can be done.
Good Luck,
Jon
 
I am still having problems with this mount. I loosened the rear motor mount bolts (there was only one per side instead of two) and then jacked up the front of the engine a little. The yoke still does not have enough room to lift up so the bottom stud can clear the frame without hitting the crank pulley. How high can I go jacking the front of the engine?
Help
Mort
 
you can jack the front of motor until it just starts to lift up the chassis. anymore and your risk damage to the pan or back mounts. go slow
 
Mort said:
I am still having problems with this mount. I loosened the rear motor mount bolts (there was only one per side instead of two) and then jacked up the front of the engine a little. The yoke still does not have enough room to lift up so the bottom stud can clear the frame without hitting the crank pulley. How high can I go jacking the front of the engine?
Help
Mort
Click to expand...

Mort, why not remove the two bolts in the yolk ears to block? Then pull the mount forward and out. Then install the bushing, the arched spring pad, springs, and finally the yolk mount. Install the bottom spring and the nut enough to compress the top springs and hold them. Lower the engine and install the top bolts through the yolk ears to the block. Lower the engine to sit on the new springs, and tighten the yolk stud till the engine is sitting at about 3 degree slant to the rear, or until the crank will fit nicely in the pulley nut. Then tighten the rear engine mount bolts. You should find a couple more for saftey sake.
A bit verbose, but this way works for me.
 
Good idea Farrrell. I hadn't thought of that. I'm concerned about why there are only two bolts in the rear. Did someone leave them out, or could he have a float a motor mount? I don't know anything about float a motors.
Jon
 
Well if it was a Float a motor system, I think he would have mentioned more than just the four stock bolts. I'll assume its a stock engine mount system and it has probably been twisted as some point and is at the point where only two bolts will start or they were lost by the last man in. It can be a bear to get all four started at the best of times so this may be likely.
 
Better keep an eye on the rear of the head or if it is off the studs. They will hit the firewall if the motor is jacked up too far in the front.
 
Mort said:
I am still having problems with this mount. I loosened the rear motor mount bolts (there was only one per side instead of two) and then jacked up the front of the engine a little. The yoke still does not have enough room to lift up so the bottom stud can clear the frame without hitting the crank pulley. How high can I go jacking the front of the engine?
Help
Mort
Click to expand...

Mort,]
Farrell has the right idea/instructions !
From you original description of 'stuff' missing from front mount AND only two :eek: rear mount bolts....yikes I'd look for what else on drivetrain, is not there/right!
 
Mort,
The two missing motor mount bolts can probably be found about 4 to 5 feet from where the car was the last time someone jacked it up. :D

My bet is they were removed by someone that forgot to put them back when they finished whatever.
 
Yes, I did check the rest of the drivetrain and it seems alright, it appears that whoever put this together did not want to hassle with the second bolt on the motor mount.

As per Farrell's suggestion, I did unbolt the yoke from the block but there still is not enough room to lift it up so the bottom bolt clears the crossmember, it hits the crankshaft pulley.

My thought now is to completely unbolt the rear engine mount and lift it to clear the pulley nut and remove the pulley.

The head is off so there is plenty of clearance at the firewall and floor.
 
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