Front motor mount
- Thread starter k24556
- Start date
That looks to high, the hand crank should line up with the crankshaft .
A lot of the front motor mount springs are to long and stiff, see the
drawing on Marco's site. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/mount.htm
Bob
A lot of the front motor mount springs are to long and stiff, see the
drawing on Marco's site. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/mount.htm
Bob
hardtimes
Well-known member
By the time that you get the spring and THICK brass bushing in there, and let her down...looks right to me
BTW..since you are now NOT 'stock' with a B in an A, why not put a B front mount in also. Just done this myself several months ago. Wished I'd done it from the beginning.
Last edited:
Chuck Sea/Tac
Well-known member
Hard times is right, there's a short spring and washer/bushing under the center.
Don't tighten the rear mounts down until the front is correct. Last engine I put in, I jumped on the front, then she dropped into place.
And like Bob C says the handcrank will verify its right.
Don't tighten the rear mounts down until the front is correct. Last engine I put in, I jumped on the front, then she dropped into place.
And like Bob C says the handcrank will verify its right.
Chuck Sea/Tac
Well-known member
I have an A engine that had the solid B front mount on it, not in a car when I aquired it. I also have an engine stand that I use a similar homemade solid B mount in the front, and standard rear mounts.
CWPASADENA
Well-known member
A complete engine weighs considerably more than a bare block. The front of the engine will come down when a complete engine is installed however, the flange of the mount should not touch the frame when everything is installed correctly.
My opinion,
Chris W.
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
There is more than meets the eye regarding the front engine mount. The goal of installing the engine mounts is get the engine on a 3-degree angle. This dialog may seem long winded, but if the engine installation is not right, the consequences will be harassing.
There should be a 3/8" diameter threaded stud on the bottom of the center flange which is used to pull down the front of the engine. Your engine mount is missing the stud.
The engine needs to be on a 3-degree angle with its front up for reasons:
1. to align the crankshaft rotating axis with the driveline axis back to the differential;
2. to level the Zenith carburetor, so the fuel level in the float bowl of the carburetor is level and has sufficient volume to assure high speed performance of the engine;
3. to assure optimum oil levels in the valve chamber toughs and in the connecting scoop troughs.
To achieve the 3-degree angle, adjust the engine's position by loosening the rear engine mounts and adjusting the front and rear engine mounts together. When the engine is at the right angle, there should be 1/32" to 1/16" gap between the coils of the front mount springs.
The stud on the flange of the front engine mount should be centered in the hole of the front crossmember. There is a brass bushing for the hole, but it was discontinued by Ford because it caused a squeak and relatively rapid wear. If the stud rubs on the edge of the crossmember hole, it will make a horrible squeak and also quickly wear a gouge in the stud.
More often than not, the stud on the front engine mount needs replacement due to wear. The stud can be cutoff and a new one made from a 3/8-24 Grade 8 bolt. Cut the head off of the bolt and electric weld it to the flange of the mount. Drill a cotter pin hole through the bolt's shank to accommodate the castle nut of the mounting hardware.
A final note. When the engine is set, check the clearance between the crankshaft pulley and the front engine mount. It is not unusual to have little or no clearance between the pulley and the mount. I had the unfortunate experience of having the the pulley shoot out of my Model A at speed because it rubbed against the front engine mount enough to cut through the pulley's spokes.
There should be a 3/8" diameter threaded stud on the bottom of the center flange which is used to pull down the front of the engine. Your engine mount is missing the stud.
The engine needs to be on a 3-degree angle with its front up for reasons:
1. to align the crankshaft rotating axis with the driveline axis back to the differential;
2. to level the Zenith carburetor, so the fuel level in the float bowl of the carburetor is level and has sufficient volume to assure high speed performance of the engine;
3. to assure optimum oil levels in the valve chamber toughs and in the connecting scoop troughs.
To achieve the 3-degree angle, adjust the engine's position by loosening the rear engine mounts and adjusting the front and rear engine mounts together. When the engine is at the right angle, there should be 1/32" to 1/16" gap between the coils of the front mount springs.
The stud on the flange of the front engine mount should be centered in the hole of the front crossmember. There is a brass bushing for the hole, but it was discontinued by Ford because it caused a squeak and relatively rapid wear. If the stud rubs on the edge of the crossmember hole, it will make a horrible squeak and also quickly wear a gouge in the stud.
More often than not, the stud on the front engine mount needs replacement due to wear. The stud can be cutoff and a new one made from a 3/8-24 Grade 8 bolt. Cut the head off of the bolt and electric weld it to the flange of the mount. Drill a cotter pin hole through the bolt's shank to accommodate the castle nut of the mounting hardware.
A final note. When the engine is set, check the clearance between the crankshaft pulley and the front engine mount. It is not unusual to have little or no clearance between the pulley and the mount. I had the unfortunate experience of having the the pulley shoot out of my Model A at speed because it rubbed against the front engine mount enough to cut through the pulley's spokes.
Last edited:
tbirdtbird
BANNED
when I look I see the stud in the pic
CWPASADENA
Well-known member
I think the stud is there. If you look real close, I think you may be able to see a bit of the stud as it goes thru the hole in the cross member.
Chris W.
I believe that the spring retainer needs to be rotated 180 degrees, this will allow the stud to center in the hole and the springs to be vertical. Notice that the retainer nipples are not aligned with the center of the hole and I don't recall which way it went.
John
John
Last edited: