front motor mount springs

kimeccles

Senior Member
I have read that many aftermarket front motor mount springs are too big. Correct springs fully compressed (like tested in a vice) should be 7/8 inch or less to allow the motor to be aligned correctly with the drive train.

The ones I got from Bratton's when compressed is a full one inch, so the motor will not settle in at the midpoint of design.

Does anyone know where to get good NOS springs or correct aftermarket ones that have more room to compress? I am pretty sure my old ones are no longer springy enough.

Thanks
 
Thanks. That is what I had read and a good reference.

I am looking for aftermarket springs that actually meet these specs (compressed less than or equal 7/8 inch and so far may have to go NOS and wait for correct ones as the new ones I got are 1 to 1 1/8 inch long compressed so I can't use them.
 
Can anyone tell me about the rear two motor mounts tightening? I discovered today that the center bolt was loose on both sides. Looked like a castle nut of sorts and that explained why the nut hadn't fallen off. Thus, I tightened both sides up but doing so without knowing if they in fact should be tightened?

Should these be tightened and if so what torque?

Thanks.
 
Can anyone tell me about the rear two motor mounts tightening? I discovered today that the center bolt was loose on both sides. Looked like a castle nut of sorts and that explained why the nut hadn't fallen off. Thus, I tightened both sides up but doing so without knowing if they in fact should be tightened?

Should these be tightened and if so what torque?

Thanks.

Are you referring to FAMs? Stock mounts have four bolts, two on each side.
 
Thanks. That is what I had read and a good reference.

I am looking for aftermarket springs that actually meet these specs (compressed less than or equal 7/8 inch and so far may have to go NOS and wait for correct ones as the new ones I got are 1 to 1 1/8 inch long compressed so I can't use them.
Can you not cut the Springs down

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
 
Are you referring to FAMs? Stock mounts have four bolts, two on each side.

Not sure what you mean by FAMs. This would be the bolt that goes through the frame and through the mount and rubber pieces. Not the bolts that hold the mount to the engine. Thanks.
 
FAM = Float a Motor's. They have one vertical bolt with a rubber biscuit on either side of the mount.
 
I installed snyders front motor mount kit and my crank nut lines of dead center to the front crossmember crank hole....
 
I tightened the Float A Motor Mounts just enough to keep the clutch from chattering. I feel this will give you the softest mount with the least vibration of the engine. I use a fine thread bolt with a self locking nut.

This is the way I do it, others may have a different approach.

Chris W.
 
I tightened the Float A Motor Mounts just enough to keep the clutch from chattering. I feel this will give you the softest mount with the least vibration of the engine. I use a fine thread bolt with a self locking nut.

This is the way I do it, others may have a different approach.

Chris W.

Thank you. I think I've just got a well running 'shaker'. Seems either manner makes little difference. Probably will loosen them.

Now, onto the front mount: I assume that the weight of the engine compresses the springs tight?? Mine look completely compressed. They appear to be new, and so I will need to measure them at least in the compressed mode. Thank you, great group.
 
I changed mine to "1955 chevy" type . rubber donut with on bolt thru . been fine for years now
 
Thank you. I think I've just got a well running 'shaker'. Seems either manner makes little difference. Probably will loosen them.

Now, onto the front mount: I assume that the weight of the engine compresses the springs tight?? Mine look completely compressed. They appear to be new, and so I will need to measure them at least in the compressed mode. Thank you, great group.

No, the weight will not compress the two springs. Someone much have the bottom nut too tight. Loosen it so the hand crank slides right in, then cotter pin it.
 
I used the above blueprint and found perfect springs at my local Fleet Farm store. I think I used the bathroom scale to check the weight / length spec. They are much more compressible than the springs the vendors sell, and the engine height is perfect.
 
Wow! Reading this thread gave me a headache... :p:p I think someone needs to start their on thread instead of having two unrelated conversations going on at the same time. :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Back
Top