Hello all, I’m working on a 1930 Victoria project and noticed the front of the engine is too high. The crank will not even fit in the pulley nut. I think these motor mount springs are not the correct ones. I have new ones on the way just wanted to see what everyone thought about it. https://imgur.com/a/izGjiU0
Front motor mount springs wrong
- Thread starter Dewshan
- Start date
J Franklin
Well-known member
The coil spring is aftermarket and designed to be used without the leaf spring. They usually came with rubber plug inserts to stiffen them up. If you are uncoupling the front mount and need to jack the engine front take out a bolt on either side of the rear mounts to provide a hinge point. Saves rear mount cracks. BTW some reproduction yokes were made too long in height.
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That spring set is a Repro from the 60's.
The set that I found on the Coupe in 1963 looked like that set in your photos.
The spring coils were made from a large diameter wire that held the front of engine up too high. The rubber bumpers inside the wire coils do not help the situation.
In addition to the crank not being usable its main problem is that engine vibrates and that the front of engine is too high when using them...
The first clue is the the two coils are made from a single length of wire.
J C Whitney and Ricks sold them in 50s and 60s... also maybe before that.
The set that I found on the Coupe in 1963 looked like that set in your photos.
The spring coils were made from a large diameter wire that held the front of engine up too high. The rubber bumpers inside the wire coils do not help the situation.
In addition to the crank not being usable its main problem is that engine vibrates and that the front of engine is too high when using them...
The first clue is the the two coils are made from a single length of wire.
J C Whitney and Ricks sold them in 50s and 60s... also maybe before that.
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Installation tip to prevent cracking flywheel housing.
It is a good idea to remove all FOUR bolts from mounts (loosening them still puts strain on housing) that hold the rear engine mounts to the flywheel housing BEFORE jacking up the front of engine.
Only jack up the amount needed.
It is a good idea to remove all FOUR bolts from mounts (loosening them still puts strain on housing) that hold the rear engine mounts to the flywheel housing BEFORE jacking up the front of engine.
Only jack up the amount needed.
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Check out the link to Marco's site for information on the motor mount springs.
https://web.archive.org/web/20140609222939/http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/mount.htm
https://web.archive.org/web/20140609222939/http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/mount.htm
SSsssteamer
Well-known member
Ditto. The rear mounts need to be loosened up.
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
I setup the engine's position so it has a 3 degree slope to align properly with the torque tube angle:
>Loosen the front engine bracket at the center spring;
>Loosen all of the bolts in the rear engine mounts, 5 per mount;
>Insert the hand crank into the crankshaft;
>Tighten the rear engine mount bolts;
>Tighten the front bracket spring to avoid clutch chatter.
The front engine mount bracket and springs tune the vibratory behavior of the engine, and especially have an effect on clutch chatter. Reproduction springs do not replicate the behavior of the original springs, so it is necessary to adjust the front engine mount springs by iteration.
>Loosen the front engine bracket at the center spring;
>Loosen all of the bolts in the rear engine mounts, 5 per mount;
>Insert the hand crank into the crankshaft;
>Tighten the rear engine mount bolts;
>Tighten the front bracket spring to avoid clutch chatter.
The front engine mount bracket and springs tune the vibratory behavior of the engine, and especially have an effect on clutch chatter. Reproduction springs do not replicate the behavior of the original springs, so it is necessary to adjust the front engine mount springs by iteration.
Chris Haynes
Well-known member
I can't see in your cropped pictures but this is usually caused from installing the mount backwards,
While loosening the rear mounts I noticed the left mount is cracked quite a bit! I updated the original link with pictures of this. Plan now is to remove and weld the rear mount. Remove front pulley to put in proper front springs etc. because the engine was installed at this angle I don’t think I can jack it high enough. The throttle linkage is already tight against the firewall!
Chris Haynes
Well-known member
Please show us a picture showing all of your front mount.
Some of the springs the vendors sell are to long, Ber't says the have the correct springs.
The brass bushing was replaced by a flat washer after Jan 1929.
https://modelastore.com/engine/engine-mounts?product_id=3488
The brass bushing was replaced by a flat washer after Jan 1929.
https://modelastore.com/engine/engine-mounts?product_id=3488
Attachments
Get the kit with all of the parts and not just the springs. The high end parts suppliers have the most correct length parts. Others sell springs that are too long. The reference to Marcp's site is a good one but I think that there was lots of discussion on the correct length that is not with the reference. For the newcomers, Marco's site is a great loss from the Barn as is the Model A ford garage..