Front Mono Spring on a '34 5W Coupe?

AzBob

AzBob

Senior Member
A previous owner installed a 1-3/4" wide reverse eye front "mono spring" on my '34 5w coupe. I was skeptical about it from the get go and wondered why it was installed. Since I have only driven the car around the neighborhood and not at speed. (Engine and trans pulled for repairs.) I have no experience in how this setup behaves on the road.

Second picture shows a 1/4" gap between the spring and clamp. That can't be good.

Am considering replacing it with a more traditional multi leaf reverse eye front spring. (Posies 7 leaf super slide shown in last picture.)

Comments welcome.
 

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AzBob said:
A previous owner installed a 1-3/4" wide reverse eye front "mono spring" on my '34 5w coupe. I was skeptical about it from the get go and wondered why it was installed. Since I have only driven the car around the neighborhood and not at speed. (Engine and trans pulled for repairs.) I have no experience in how this setup behaves on the road.

Second picture shows a 1/4" gap between the spring and clamp. That can't be good.

Am considering replacing it with a more traditional multi leaf reverse eye front spring. (Posies 7 leaf super slide shown in last picture.)

Comments welcome.
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Thanks for the enlargements petehoovie.


Another thought, thinking I should just go with a stock eye leaf spring to restore the factory caster angle of 5° to 7°. Unless the ~1" drop from the reverse eye has negligible effect on caster angle. Anyone?
 
Should probably have a spacer between the spring and plate.Your motor mount cushion needs replacing.Appears to be severely cracked
 
deuce lover said:
Should probably have a spacer between the spring and plate.Your motor mount cushion needs replacing.Appears to be severely cracked
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Thanks deuce lover. X2. I was thinking along similar lines either add spacer between spring and clamp or install a thicker spacer on top. That is if I decide to keep the mono spring.

I wondered about those motor mount cushion biscuits as well. Will see if I can order new ones.
 
Just buy the complete motor mount set. I always preferred the sets sold with the SS band on the upper biscuit.
 
Those U-bolts look to be way too long. Maybe the gap is there because the guy ran out of thread.

A set the correct length for a '34 would be in order.

Those mono leaf springs usually come with enough of the short spacers to equal a stock spring.
 
Aren't those spacers stacked on top of the spring. It sure looks like it to me. I can't believe ANYONE would put a car together with the front spring floating around.
 
rich b said:
Those U-bolts look to be way too long. Maybe the gap is there because the guy ran out of thread.

A set the correct length for a '34 would be in order.

Those mono leaf springs usually come with enough of the short spacers to equal a stock spring.
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rich b, I just checked and the nuts are bottomed out on the threads. I need to remove the clamps, jack up the frame and see what is there for spacers and if need be, order shorter U-bolts.
 
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tubman said:
Aren't those spacers stacked on top of the spring. It sure looks like it to me. I can't believe ANYONE would put a car together with the front spring floating around.
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tubman, Great observation. I didn't see those with the naked eye but the camera picked them up.

tubman said:
I can't believe ANYONE would put a car together with the front spring floating around.
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Me neither. I had both rear wheels jacked up earlier (front wheels on ground) and could rock the car back and forth by just lightly pushing the on the body with my hand. :(
 
I wouldn't change too much. The monoleaf is a good idea if it works ok. Modern vehicles use them. There seems plenty of clearance between the spring eye and the axle. That's a good thing and not always the case. You want a spacer above the clamp against the spring and some washers on the U bolts to move the nuts down. Once all is fitted up and working well, the U bolts could be shortened.

If it drives well, leave it alone. If it drives poorly, then consider a change.
Mart.
 
Mart, thanks for the sound advice. I am going to check the spacer stack above the spring and add one below plus some washers as you suggested. When I get the drivetrain back in and running, will see how it drives. Until then, I am going to retain the mono spring.
 
You could use a thread die to extend the threaded U-bolt threads but keep in mind it might change the required 45 degree angle of your spring hangers. You have to use a Crescent wrench to turn the die. BEST idea: Try inserting the plate first to fill in the space.
 
glenpm, that is about what I came up with close to 3/8" thick. Will do a mock up with 1/4" and 3/8" plates. I have steel flat stock on hand.


19Fordy thanks for the 45° spring hanger detail and U-bolt clamp nuts 80 ft. lbs. number.
 
The stock springs had a rate of about 135 lbs per inch per side. The mono springs are about 500. It takes 1000 lbs to deflect them one inch. They also used to have problems suddenly breaking.
 
Andy said:
The stock springs had a rate of about 135 lbs per inch per side. The mono springs are about 500. It takes 1000 lbs to deflect them one inch. They also used to have problems suddenly breaking.
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You are correct about the breaking. One of our club members had one in his '39 and it broke. It cured me from wanting one.
 
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