First. The braces are not Brookville, they are "Metal Fab Engineering" (formerly Ezra). The shape is pretty good but not exact, and there is an issue with the top webs not being stamped parallel.
Second. If you want truly good stuff you are going to have to find "good" NOS (not the junk Ford threw off the assembly line) or matched ETO. Assuming you are going to use repro parts then my recommendations are.
Start by fitting the fenders and headlight bar WITHOUT the braces. The chassis frame should be level front and rear while you are fitting, shims under the tires or jackstands under the frame does not matter. You should be level across the top of the fenders and across the headlight bar mounts. You should have the same distance from the headlight bar mount to the outside of the fender on each side. You should be diagonally square between the headlight bar mounts and the opposite frame rail. If you can get everything to align and fit good you are golden.
Then fit the braces to the fenders. Flatten or grind the upper web so you do not have a sharp point that can contact the fender (this can cause a ridge dent on a steel fender, or a crack in a fiberglass one). Reshape the brace as needed. The brace should only contact the fender at the headlight bar mounts and the outer edge bolt, any other contact will cause rubbing (and later corrosion issues), ridge dents, or paint cracking. An old body shop trick for steel fenders is to twist the brace so the outer fender bolt hole is about 1-2" forward of the hole in the fender, when bolted together the slight tension on the fender will help keep the fender line straight from the bolt to the running board. Note that (our) fiberglass fenders do not need the support at the outside edge and the brace can be terminated at the outboard headlight bolt mount.
Note also that front edge on original Ford fenders was slightly flatter on the right side than the left side.
