Front engine mount alignment issue

G

gwillford

Junior Member
I have a 30 Town Sedan. New to me. The lower stud on the front engine mount rubs hard on the 3/4 in through hole to the point of being basically a solid mount. Aft edge of the hole. The mount is oriented correctly. There was no brass washer. Vibration is bad as you would suspect. I played with the rear mounts (standard Ford) to move the engine as far forward as possible. Not much gain. Cross member is riveted in. Appears to be undamaged. Anyone else have this issue? Solutions? Considering spacing the mount forward by using washers at the two engine mounting locations for better overall alignment and function. Thanks for the help.
 
The engine flywheel cover part of the mounts allow for some side to side movement of the engine in order to align the crank bearing with the front pulley so that the hand crank will work properly. If the rear axle & torque tube or spring are off a bit in relation to the rear cross member than that may be a side to side or centering problem of the assembly. There is no adjustment for the full length of the drive train unless someone was modifying the torque tube for overdrive or some other reason such as a later B-type transmission.

If the front cross member is correct for a 1930/31 car and it is properly installed in the correct location between the rails then the front engine mount should be located properly. I'd try moving the engine side to side by loosening the bolts that connect the rear engine mounts to the flywheel cover and moving the engine to center it and see what happens. It will move more than most folks would think so just use a large washer there on the bottom of the yoke. The brass plug didn't allow enough movement so it was discontinued in a Service Bulletin if I remember correctly. If that doesn't work then I'd start looking closely at the frame for signs of bend in the rails or other damage that could cause problems. A person can use some bar stock at least the same diameter of the hand crank and insert it through the crank bearing and into the ratchet nut on the pulley to help move it around. It's better if the radiator is removed for this. The front mount yoke could also be damaged or bent in some way. Once it's aligned then tighten the mount bolts back up good and tight. The mount yoke is designed to be able to move some within reason so it should just have the springs and a big washer. It seams like there was a leather pad too between the yoke stud and the leaf spring.
 
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IF someone in the past removed the motor with the yoke still installed and set it down bending the yoke. I would bend the yoke or buy a new yoke.
 
Snyder's sells the leather washer. I saw it yesterday and ordered two. One for our coupe and one for a friends pickup. I've read that if the motor is jacked under a 2x4 placed under the forward part of the oil pan, that the bolts in the rear mounts need to be loose. Otherwise there is a risk of cracking the flywheel housing????


Keep us posted on the results, please.
 
Thanks for the thoughts. I have checked the location of the hole in the cross member to the SB Ford put out for field retrofitting these. 1 in from the flange. Mine is also... Hard to tell if bent. Appears correct. I have just purchased a new front mount. Cheap enough to have on hand when i check the current one. Yes rear mount bolts need to be removed, not just loose as you need to jack the front pretty high. I have an engine hoist so may be even easier with it and try and save the oil pan and gasket from stress. Throttle cross over assy needs to be removed or you will learn how to straighten these. Lesson learned. Apparently nobody has tried the spacer idea. Stay tuned.
 
I've had the spring loaded front mount on 3 of my cars and every one of them displayed this problem. In addition, every engine I have dismantled that had the yoke on it showed the same wear on the "bolt". They cause an annoying squeak that can take the uninitiated a while to track down. The squeak often goes away when the clutch is depressed. I but a rubber mount from the local parts shop and put that under the front of the engine. The original is a failure IMO.
 
Are you sure the front mount is oriented correctly? The curvature is supposed to bow out, away from the engine.
 
And the rest of the story. Bent mount. Bottom end bent toward the engine. Suspect previously bent on a past engine removal while still attached when setting on the floor. New from Snyder’s fit.
 
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