Front end alignment for 48 F1

waterboychuck

waterboychuck

Well-known member
I'm ready to put my 48 F1 on the road after many years of sitting idle. I did install a 3inch dropped axle along with a new tie rod. I have not had a front end alignment on it yet, but the nearest place is a 20-25 minute drive and at this point I'm not sure that I can make it on these tires the way the front end is. Check out the photo. Do you think the toe in is too much or too little? I drove around the block and upon my return I could see my tire marks in the street from when I left. Any help?

Thanks, Chuck
 

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Chuck, I had a similar issue and called AAA for a one way tow. No problem. I told them the front end needed work and I was worried about driving it.

Tom
 
Place a jack under the front and take the front wheels off. Put a straight edge on the outside face of each drum and measure between from front to back. Give it 1/16 less in front and that will be enough to get you to a shop. There have been other threads on here about doing toe in adjustments as you really want it sitting on the ground. Did you install caster shims when you installed the axle?
 
No shims were installed but I still have them. Thanks for the tip. I'll have to try that. I don't really care if the tires wear out as they are old but I would like to at least make to the tire store safely.
 
I did end up using the string method and now I have no tire marks on the concrete. As for the shims, they go on the bottom of the king pins if there is room for them. I also saw that on utube. Since my truck iis leaning to one side I'm going to be replacing the leaf spring bushings and pins. While doing that I'll check the king pin to see if a shim is necessary.
 
Re: Fix Problems First?

Just a thought...If you fix all your shackle, steering and spring problems before you get an alignment, chances are you will be finished with the front end. If you align it first, and then fix the sagging spring or springs, replace your shackles, replace any worn steering components, and put on your permanent tires, most likely your alignment will change. At the very least, the truck should be setting level before alignment. Also be careful who you trust to do the alignment. Most shops are not equipped to align I-Beam axles, because they may require bending to set proper camber and caster. Most alignment shops can only can only set the toe. (as they say "set the toe and let her go"). Might want to consider a trusted large truck shop for the alignment. As i said, these are just thoughts. Best wishes for whichever route you choose. Good luck. ....jack
 
waterboychuck said:
I did end up using the string method and now I have no tire marks on the concrete. As for the shims, they go on the bottom of the king pins if there is room for them. I also saw that on utube. Since my truck iis leaning to one side I'm going to be replacing the leaf spring bushings and pins. While doing that I'll check the king pin to see if a shim is necessary.
Click to expand...

There are some thin metal shims that take up any slop in the kingpins but they are not related to caster shims that go between the springs and the axle. They tilt the axle back to help make the steering wheel return to straight. You want around 6-7 degrees.
 
To get it good enough to just drive to the tyre shop, you could just sight along the outside edge of each front tyre and adjust them until they line up with the outside edge of the rear tyres. It won't be exactly right, but it won't be so far out as to scrub the tyres to bits on the way to the tyre shop. In theory they would be parallel if the front and rear track and tyre size is equal.
 
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Gearhead, in looking at my F1 service manual I can across a diagram of the front springs and in that diagram it shows a camber wedge that fits under the bottom spring. The manual in in my shop right now or I would scan it.

Mart, I tried sighting my tires and the photo is the results, even with my glasses on. lol
The string method worked pretty good although I'm now replacing the bushings and pins so that my truck will not lean. That's another thread. Once I do that I'll redo the string test again.

I've attached a photo of the truck and I'm sure you'll all agree that it needs smaller tire on the front and not mud and snow tires on the rear.
 

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What size are they tyres? I think it wears them quite nice.
And I'll admit, I do like a pickum up with mud n snows on the rear.
Martin.
 
I think a truck should be allowed to be a truck, and I wouldn't agree it needs smaller tyres on the front.

Mart.
 
Taking a vehicle with solid axle for alignment is something I’ve never done.
There’s nothing they’re going to do I cant do myself.

I use the method mentioned above with strait edges on the WMS’s
You need to keep in mind …. strait edges must match the diameter of the tires, so your measuring as if the wheels are on.

Angle finder / digital level tells where your at with caster.
All 4x4 stores carry the wedge shims.
 
waterboychuck said:
Gearhead, in looking at my F1 service manual I can across a diagram of the front springs and in that diagram it shows a camber wedge that fits under the bottom spring. The manual in in my shop right now or I would scan it.
Click to expand...

Not sure what your question is. Yes caster shims fit under the spring to tilt the axle toward the rear. Camber is in/out angle of the wheels when viewed from the front. Camber can only be adjusted by bending the axle.
 
Gearhead, read the last sentence in message #3. I think I mistook what you were talking about when you used the word shim. Sorry.
 
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