How important is the fitment of the tie bolt in this square hole? My crossmember bolt hole isn't perfectly square so the bolt has some space around it. Once in place wouldn't the wishbone keep the spring and axle from shifting? I figured the spring fits in the crossmember fairly tight too.
Front crossmember bolt hole
- Thread starter Jeff M
- Start date
SeaSlugs
Well-known member
well yes and no... are we talking like 1/8" or less of play or are we talking a half dollar sized rusty hole...
ideally you would want it tight (not press in with 30 ton press tight but snug) as your spring clamps are what hold it to the frame. The bolt head would prevent the spring from wanting to shift sideways (slide towards the pass or drivers side) and in theory could throw off your alignment if its not tight.
There have been several people saying their car leans left or right when parked and no-one in it, usually they are asked if the spring pack bolt head is centered in the crossmember hole and the spring to frame clamps are equally tight. So it can make a difference in physical appearance.
The wishbone is a pivot point of all axis' hence the ball shape. It merely keeps the front axle from flopping backwards under the car and keeping the axle from twisting when you go around a turn/hit a pothole/etc. it also allows the front axle to rotate so one wheel can go over a bump while other goes in a dip. Thus when the wishbone ball is worn out the car can shimmy or lurch around going over bumps/dips. It doesn't keep the leaf spring from sliding sideways in the crosmember pocket.
The spring fits in the pocket but not very tightly. You want some wiggle room so to speak between the leaf pack and cross member to allow it to flex and bend without rubbing or hanging up. You would think the forces would compress the spring directly up when going over a bump but in reality its on a very slight arc due to the wishbone ball being stationary. (think of the side view of the car, the wishbone ball doesnt move but the front axle does)
probably way too much info but maybe someones light-bulb will kick on
ideally you would want it tight (not press in with 30 ton press tight but snug) as your spring clamps are what hold it to the frame. The bolt head would prevent the spring from wanting to shift sideways (slide towards the pass or drivers side) and in theory could throw off your alignment if its not tight.
There have been several people saying their car leans left or right when parked and no-one in it, usually they are asked if the spring pack bolt head is centered in the crossmember hole and the spring to frame clamps are equally tight. So it can make a difference in physical appearance.
The wishbone is a pivot point of all axis' hence the ball shape. It merely keeps the front axle from flopping backwards under the car and keeping the axle from twisting when you go around a turn/hit a pothole/etc. it also allows the front axle to rotate so one wheel can go over a bump while other goes in a dip. Thus when the wishbone ball is worn out the car can shimmy or lurch around going over bumps/dips. It doesn't keep the leaf spring from sliding sideways in the crosmember pocket.
The spring fits in the pocket but not very tightly. You want some wiggle room so to speak between the leaf pack and cross member to allow it to flex and bend without rubbing or hanging up. You would think the forces would compress the spring directly up when going over a bump but in reality its on a very slight arc due to the wishbone ball being stationary. (think of the side view of the car, the wishbone ball doesnt move but the front axle does)
probably way too much info but maybe someones light-bulb will kick on
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Brentwood Bob
Well-known member
do you have a rough dimension? The bottom of the wishbone needs to bridge this hole. This can be welded up to repair it. Much easier than replacing the front cross member. Bob
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I agree with Bob. I'd also like to see dimensions, but from what I see in your picture, I'd hold a copper plate on the bottom side of the hole and weld the hole in to the correct size. Hold the copper in place with a bottle jack.
Years ago I worked on a frame that had NO hole for the spring bolt. I had to find exact center and drill a hole, then file the 4 corners.
Years ago I worked on a frame that had NO hole for the spring bolt. I had to find exact center and drill a hole, then file the 4 corners.
Charles Reese
Well-known member
1. so, is there a torque value on these nuts?
2. dont mean to hijack this thread, but how critical is the tightness of the spring leaf tie bolt/nut itself (seems the spring frame clamps take most of the compression pressure?)
Brentwood Bob
Well-known member
Got this confused with the wishbone hole, but same advice applies. you want a snug fit and the only way to do it is to weld up this jagged hole and file it into shape.
Bob
Bob
Fred K-OR
Well-known member
If you have a Dremel tool or one like it that you can buy from HF, the job may be a little easer.
SeaSlugs
Well-known member
i dunno but mine were broken and could see the zig zag hammering effect of each leaf sliding and riding on the bolt instead against each other.
whats left of a spring tie bolt
id imagine rather tightly but it is only a 5/16 diameter bolt so impact not necessary...
Back to origional question: what ive heard done OP is use a modern hex head bolt and file it down to be snug in your hole. Sure it would be best to get the hole back to proper size but it is an option.
Brentwood Bob
Well-known member
dont forget to pean over the nut end of the center bolt. I just did this on a front spring. I left roughly a 1/16 proud and then ball peaned it. I backed the head of the bolt on steel. too heavy to balance and use a ***** punch so opted for the ball pean treatment. And yes I used cclamps as insurance.
I went ahead and welded up both sides of the hole today. What size bit did you use if you recall? The top leaf of my spring has imprints of the guide holes so I figured I could use those as a reference to the location of the correct tie bolt hole.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I measured across the flats of the bolt head and used that diameter drill bit.
I think the square bolt head takes a 1/2" wrench.
I think the square bolt head takes a 1/2" wrench.