I have a new crankshaft seal for the camshaft housing and I am having difficulty getting the bolt holes to line up. I soaked it overnight in oil, put it into the housing,and squeezed it with clamps over a 1 1/2 " dowell. I tried to install but the bolt holes will not line up. I clamped it again after adding some shims,left it for awhile,tried again,but still not lining up with the bolt holes. Nothing is in the way,so what am I missing? Any ideas??
Front crankshaft seal
- Thread starter Don S
- Start date
Bill Steiner
Senior Member
I may not understanding what you are saying. I guess you are talking about the rope seal. In my opinion I never soak them , just put them in and trim them off about 1/4 in sticking out and put a little grease on it . I take a big socket and push it in the groove. I may be talking about something different. Hope some one else can tell you better. Bill
pat in Santa Cruz
Well-known member
its a pain to do...try the big socket and pack the seal down more, then install one bolt loosely in one side and pry the opposite side down with a punch in the bolt hole while installing bolts one hole at a time from the anchored side..
I bought one of the new type seals for the rebuilt engine and I DO NOT recommend it the thing failed after about 200 miles and I had to take the engine out and replace it the seal had collapsed and was real hard ...Then I put in the ORIGINAL type rope seal ...Yes it is a bit more difficult I soaked it in oil overnight then pushed it in with a big socket then cut it off with about 1/8th inch hanging out so it had a little extra there to squeeze in and fit tight as I recall I then pushed it around in the slot just a little so the mating seal ends were not flush with the pan but a little bit up in the slot on one side and a little bit down in the slot on the other side ...So far it has been in there a year and has a few hundred miles on it and is doing fine business...
B0B in MichiganIt is the rope type seal that I am replacing. It is the new type,instructions say to soak in oil,but not to cut the extra ends off. There is more sticking out than what I think will squash down. The pan will also have the same type of seal when I instal it. I will have to keep at it.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I ALWAYS have to cut the ends. I install the seal dry, then squirt some oil on it and smear a lot of grease on it just before installing the pan or cover. I cut the ends so about 1/8" sticks up over the thickness of the gasket. Kind of push and pinch the ends of the rope seal so they will pack inside the groove rather than between the pan and cover. You want the end tight to each other and to the crank, but not more than a few threads to spread over in between the pan and cover. I still have to use a punch as Pat said to pull the cover down while I push it back and start the bolts.
If the ends weren't trimmed on the rope seals, I couldn't get the pan and cover on. I've never had a front rope seal leak. In fact, my rear original slinger doesn't leak a drop either.
If the ends weren't trimmed on the rope seals, I couldn't get the pan and cover on. I've never had a front rope seal leak. In fact, my rear original slinger doesn't leak a drop either.
Dave in MN
Well-known member
Modern front crankshaft seal
Bob,
I know I am off the original track of this thread but I wanted to comment on your modern seal failure based on my experiences. Sorry to hear about your problem with one...real pain to have to take an engine out again!
Let's not write off the modern replacement seal just yet. I have had real good success with the modern seal. I have 40 engines out with them installed. The crankshaft pulleys must be polished at the contact area and when installing, the cover and pan should both be in place before the sealant you are using sets up. I try to have the pan and cover on within 10 minutes of each other. If you delay, the seal will be pushed out of center with the crank as the fit of the seal is quite tight between the front cover and the pan. IMO: Any modern seal will most likely leak if not centered. One of the modern seals leaked for me anyway...I discovered the off center position as I tore it down. I had installed the front cover and then waited until the next morning to install the pan. Luckily, the engine was still on my test stand with about 4 hours of running when it failed so it was not a real problem to replace it. It is unfortunate the suppliers don't warn you of this important installation tip.
Regarding the original style seals...I agree with Tom and Bill, I don't soak them either. William McRee, in his book for Model A engine rebuilding, offers the same advice of installing the seal dry.
First snow last week..10 inches of wet heavy blanket
25 hours with out power last weekend..starting @ 8:00 am on Saturday.
'28 Pickup is put away for the winter
'29 Phaeton is still ready to go...
Good Day!
Dave in MN
Bob,
I know I am off the original track of this thread but I wanted to comment on your modern seal failure based on my experiences. Sorry to hear about your problem with one...real pain to have to take an engine out again!
Let's not write off the modern replacement seal just yet. I have had real good success with the modern seal. I have 40 engines out with them installed. The crankshaft pulleys must be polished at the contact area and when installing, the cover and pan should both be in place before the sealant you are using sets up. I try to have the pan and cover on within 10 minutes of each other. If you delay, the seal will be pushed out of center with the crank as the fit of the seal is quite tight between the front cover and the pan. IMO: Any modern seal will most likely leak if not centered. One of the modern seals leaked for me anyway...I discovered the off center position as I tore it down. I had installed the front cover and then waited until the next morning to install the pan. Luckily, the engine was still on my test stand with about 4 hours of running when it failed so it was not a real problem to replace it. It is unfortunate the suppliers don't warn you of this important installation tip.
Regarding the original style seals...I agree with Tom and Bill, I don't soak them either. William McRee, in his book for Model A engine rebuilding, offers the same advice of installing the seal dry.
First snow last week..10 inches of wet heavy blanket
25 hours with out power last weekend..starting @ 8:00 am on Saturday.
'28 Pickup is put away for the winter
'29 Phaeton is still ready to go...
Good Day!
Dave in MN
Last edited:
Ray in La Mesa
Well-known member
When setting the rope seal I put the bottom right bolt in the front of the timing cover and push down on the generater mount to set the seal . The leverage works pretty well to get the remaining bolts in.
From the above, there are a lot of ways to put in the seals. FWIW, I soak the seals in oil, put one in the cover, start a bolt on the right side of the front cover plate, and lever the front cover down with a punch through a left side bolt hole until I can start a bolt on the left side. Works pretty easy. The pan I just tighten up evenly. I dont trim the seals. Never had a leak.
Dave in MN
Well-known member
Don,
When I purchase paper pan gasket sets, the seal you are trying to install are included and I find them quite pliable. Is the seal you are working with real stiff...hard? What was your source?
Good Luck today! Hope it goes better.
Dave in MN
When I purchase paper pan gasket sets, the seal you are trying to install are included and I find them quite pliable. Is the seal you are working with real stiff...hard? What was your source?
Good Luck today! Hope it goes better.
Dave in MN
Job completed! It was a chore to get the bolts to line up,but the hint about using the generator mount to clamp from was good. I used a piece of hardwood under the block flange and a clamp to the generator mount ,and was able to bring it down enough to put the bolts in. I purchased my parts from Snyders. The next job is installing new exhaust and intake manifolds,also from Snyders. They said no machining is required to the manifolds. Hope they are right. Thanks for all the suggestions.
KCTA Chris
Senior Member
Just had my experience with the rope seals, scared me a little today! I never knew the seal was so tight.
When I bolted my engine back together I didnt have a crank pulley and figured I'd just add it later. I cut a very small amount about off the ends and thought I had done a pretty good job. The new pulley showed up Friday, painted it Sat (being careful to mask off the seal area). It was hand tight getting it on past the snout even with grease but once it hit the seal area it barely moved, I was sure the keyway notch was lined up and just keep going. Finally it bottom out but still couldnt get the crankshaft to turn. Worried I broke something and dreading pulling the cover and dropping the pan I gave it another try. I put my torque wrench on to check, over 85 lbs and finally the crank started to move, after a couple rotations it really loosened up and can barely turn it with the lug/crank wrench But wow, that tight? I can see how much trouble it would be bolting up.
When I bolted my engine back together I didnt have a crank pulley and figured I'd just add it later. I cut a very small amount about off the ends and thought I had done a pretty good job. The new pulley showed up Friday, painted it Sat (being careful to mask off the seal area). It was hand tight getting it on past the snout even with grease but once it hit the seal area it barely moved, I was sure the keyway notch was lined up and just keep going. Finally it bottom out but still couldnt get the crankshaft to turn. Worried I broke something and dreading pulling the cover and dropping the pan I gave it another try. I put my torque wrench on to check, over 85 lbs and finally the crank started to move, after a couple rotations it really loosened up and can barely turn it with the lug/crank wrench But wow, that tight? I can see how much trouble it would be bolting up.