We always pry the old rope seal out,then insert the new one and tamp it down good with a bit of it sticking out on both sides and bolt it together.These are not prone to leakage.
I've noticed that there are two types of one piece seals available for the later 8BA block. I'm not sure about the 59A and haven't researched it yet. One for the 8BA is a rubber seal that comes with a smooth crank bushing to replace the OEM spiral grooved part. The other is a CNC machined aluminum part with a seal and an o-ring. They should come with destructions of some sort. The timing cover and crank pulley may have to be removed as well as the oil pan to put them in place.
As rotorwrench suggested, check the instructions to be sure. As I recall, using the CNC machined type, the small hole in it points into the pan and should be down. I think it is a drain return. You bed these in ample amounts of silicone.
I have used the cnc aluminum cased seal but on my last 59A engine I used the rubber jacketed one from Speedway and I liked it a lot better. I liked the snug fit of the outer casing into groove to pan and front cover and think the seal itself had more material or more forgivence or flexibilitythan the smaller one inside the aluminum one.