Front Brake Drums

Strick

Strick

Well-known member
are 1940-1941 and 1946-1948 Original front brake drums/hubs interchangeable when using 1940 Ford wheels and 1940 Ford backing plates? I know 1940 had the hub mounted inside the drum and 1946-1948 had the hub mounted outside the drum. any offset differences or brake differences one might encounter?
 
Strick said:
are 1940-1941 and 1946-1948 Original front brake drums/hubs interchangeable when using 1940 Ford wheels and 1940 Ford backing plates? I know 1940 had the hub mounted inside the drum and 1946-1948 had the hub mounted outside the drum. any offset differences or brake differences one might encounter?
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Yes....TOTALLY interchangeable. Any combination of '39 thru '48 backing plates, and any combination of '40 thru '48 drums are completely compatible. You can even use '37 thru '39 wide-five drums with any year (thru '48) hydraulic backing plates. DD
 
Just to clarify: If these are complete units (meaning- drums with hub still attached), yes.

If you have separate pieces, you need to use the corresponding hub and drum: Example: '42-'48 hubs with '42-'48 drums and so forth and so on depending on what you got.
 
Thanks DD and Tim. What I thought...

Tim - it would be a complete unit (drum and hub still attached) from what my friend told me.
 
Strick said:
Thanks DD and Tim. What I thought...

Tim - it would be a complete unit (drum and hub still attached) from what my friend told me.
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Great. Then like DD said, you are good to go. I have '32 spindles with '40 brakes and '42-'48 hubs and drums up front. All goes together as designed.
 
Can anyone out there tell me what the dimensional specs are for original
1946 Ford Pickup front/rear brake drums, and how far out they can be ground ?
 
Trojan said:
Can anyone out there tell me what the dimensional specs are for original
1946 Ford Pickup front/rear brake drums, and how far out they can be ground ?
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1/2-ton are originally 12.0" diameter. Legally, they are NOT to be cut (turned) any more than 0.060", which ends-up being a MAX of 12.060". These drums (that haven't been worn-out or turned WAY beyond limits) have become preciously rare. Any that are still legal, turn them as little as reasonably possible. Remember, a couple of deep gouges can remain without any noticeable effect. DD
 
The benefit to the early hubs is the ability to remove and replace the drums with new drums. With this modification the drums can be removed without removing the hubs. The drums sold by Boling Bros are thicker. Stock drums turn to .060, theirs turn to .090.
Drum weight is about 20#.
IMO the larger mass (+40%) will be more effective in dispersing the heat & less distortion.
Made in USA too.
 
Baggs: Yes brake drums can be relined. "Google" is your friend.
If it's a 40-48 Ford drum, probably cheaper and easier to buy Bolling Bros. new drums.
 
V8COOPMAN said:
1/2-ton are originally 12.0" diameter. Legally, they are NOT to be cut (turned) any more than 0.060", which ends-up being a MAX of 12.060". These drums (that haven't been worn-out or turned WAY beyond limits) have become preciously rare. Any that are still legal, turn them as little as reasonably possible. Remember, a couple of deep gouges can remain without any noticeable effect. DD
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Thanks V8Coopman for the info re 1/2 Ton brake drums. I'm afraid my fronts are already
way over. I didn't know about their rarity so I think I'll buy some repos.
 
Trojan said:
Thanks V8Coopman for the info re 1/2 Ton brake drums. I'm afraid my fronts are already
way over. I didn't know about their rarity so I think I'll buy some repos.
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Trojan .....For your own good, purchase ONLY the MT Car Products (also going by the name "Boling Bros.") reproduction drums. They are the ONLY repro drums out there that nobody has had any problems with. Speedway offers some repro drums that look VERY similar for about a $30 savings, but there have been several folks complaining about 'balance' and 'out-of-round' problems with those on occasion. The MT drums are bullet-proof, and the quality is obvious once you see them. In addition, one of our FordBarn regular members (Krylon32) owns "Cornhuskers Rod & Custom". His name is Gary Mussman, and is a dealer for the MT (Boling Bros.) brake system parts. Gary will give FordBarn members a 10% discount on such parts. His web site:

http://myflatheadford.com/business-directory/9755/cornhusker-rod-and-customs/

To utilize the "MT Products" drums, you'll need to cut the swage holding each original wheel stud into the stock drum/hub assembly. You'll ream the five holes to 0.600" in the hubs and replace with specific Dorman #610-234 studs. When the time comes, we can explain the exact procedure to SAFELY separate the old drums from the hubs. "MT Products" (Boling Bros.) web site below. NOTE that even though they are called "Lincoln style", they are precisely the drums you want. DD

http://www.bolingbrothers.com/lincoln-style-drum/


image20__61769.1542060016.jpg



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V8COOPMAN - I'm ready to dissemble the front hubs and drums tomorrow. You mentioned
you could explain the exact procedure to SAFELY separate the old drums from the hubs. I'll be contacting Gary Mussman for the parts I'll need. I appreciate your help !
 
Trojan said:
V8COOPMAN - I'm ready to dissemble the front hubs and drums tomorrow. You mentioned
you could explain the exact procedure to SAFELY separate the old drums from the hubs. I'll be contacting Gary Mussman for the parts I'll need. I appreciate your help !
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I'll try to get you something worthwhile before this time tomorrow, if someone else doesn't chime-in first. Gary M. would certainly have some worthwhile guidance on this also! DD
 
V8COOPMAN: I talked to Gary Mussman and he is ordering the Drums for me. Unfortunately there is a backlog until the first part of May. Gary did give me a couple of
his thoughts on the drum replacement project.
 
Trojan:

You'll need a good 5/8 hole saw bit, cutting fluid, a good bright light and a strong drill.

The gist is you slide the hole saw down over the studs and slowly turn it with the drill. While watching, you'll see the swedge break loose from the hub. This is why the good, bright light is important. Stop drilling at that point. Go on to the next one.

Once all five are cut free, time to knock them out. I like to use a 10 lb. hand held mason's sledge. I also like to place an old piece of rail road track under the hub flange while driving the old ones out. Helps to keep a ham handed mechanic from bending the hub flange.

Use the studs Boling Bros. recommends on their site. Get the studs from Rock Auto. Best prices I've found. Just type in the Dorman part # in their search box.

You will need to ream out the stud holes on the hubs slightly. Once the hub is reamed (I forget how much larger, but go slow) To install the new, ridged studs, either buy a stud installer tool from a place from Rock Auto or use a large grade 8 washer placed over the stud. Run a lug nut down and tighten it with an impact. The gun will pull the stud into place and the ridges will "lock" it in.

It seems complicated and I was nervous the first time I did it. One you do one, it will make perfect sense and the job is fairly simple.
 
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