Front axle wheel puller.

Y-Blockhead said:
Yes that the puller to get. It will pull either style hub. Made by Mitchell, the O/D people.

I would not recommend 200 ft/lbs tho. I toque mine to 199 ft/lbs.
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I have a puller that will do the hubs with the groove but I have one hub with the raised ring. One day, I'll need one of those pullers but by the time I get one of those here, it will cost me close to $400. That's not going to happen so I'm looking into making one for myself and anybody else over here in the same position. Is anybody please able to show or send me pictures of that puller in pieces?
Without the benefit of knowing what they look like, I'm thinking of having some half circles laser cut and machined to suit but I'd need more information or I'm likely to be doing it again to get it right.
 
Knock off pullers do work.


Put a wheel on the drum you want to pull.
Lower the wheel to the ground.
Remove the nut and place the puller on the axle snug
Back the puller off tell has clearance.

Jack the other side so the tire is off the ground.
Smack the puller


If the adjusters are backed off, nothing is rusted, galled on. The drum should pop off
 
I'm trying to figure out why the tool is junk, but the same person says to turn the castle nut around and whack it with a hammer! The tool looks much sturdier and may not damage the threads on the axle like the nut will. I've seen the castle nut used, I've also seen it beaten on until it ruined the threads.
I was told the tool was for front axles, my mistake.
I grew up working on cars out of necessity, but I've spent the last 26 years chasing bad guys, not working on cars. Now I'm back messing with cars, but I'm rusty and my brother, my go-to for all things cars, died in 2016.
I'll keep trying, failing, and trying some more.
 
I just know that one way or another that drum will yield. If you plan to keep the car get a good puller made for it. When you need it you will maybe have to clean your garage to find it, but you will have one.
 
ETAModel said:
I'm trying to figure out why the tool is junk, but the same person says to turn the castle nut around and whack it with a hammer! The tool looks much sturdier and may not damage the threads on the axle like the nut will. I've seen the castle nut used, I've also seen it beaten on until it ruined the threads.
I was told the tool was for front axles, my mistake.
I grew up working on cars out of necessity, but I've spent the last 26 years chasing bad guys, not working on cars. Now I'm back messing with cars, but I'm rusty and my brother, my go-to for all things cars, died in 2016.
I'll keep trying, failing, and trying some more.
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If you want to get that knock off puller, then thats fine. Try it, it probably is better than turning the nut. At least its not expensive.

After a couple whacks if it doesn't come off, drive it around the block. If that doesn't get it then use a 'real' puller.
 
I watched Paul Shinn remove a rear drum the other day. He put the driver (nut) on the axle and put a pry bar between the drum and the backing plate and hit the nut with a hammer. I cringed when I saw it, but it did remove the drum. It looked like it could do some damage to me.
Marty
 
Knockers are used to break loose all kinds of taper fit assembles, Flywheels on small engines, outboard motors and yes, wheel hubs. The knocker, when properly fit not only protects the thread but, unlike the nut, the knocker bottoms out on the end of the shaft to better transmit the impact of the hammer blow to the shaft. The trick with any knocker is to use a HEAVY hammer, and give a solid blow... no tat, tap, tap here.
Joe B
 
Jim Mason said:
Knock off pullers do work.


Put a wheel on the drum you want to pull.
Lower the wheel to the ground.
Remove the nut and place the puller on the axle snug
Back the puller off tell has clearance.

Jack the other side so the tire is off the ground.
Smack the puller


If the adjusters are backed off, nothing is rusted, galled on. The drum should pop off
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Ditto,note, the trick is having the other wheel off the ground.
 
Pick a way and try it, then come back and tell us how it worked out. You now know there are many thoughts on this procedure.
 
Patrick L. said:
What are you trying to do ?

Front wheels don't need a puller. Your arms are the puller.

For the rear, that thing you show is pretty much useless. In place of that thing just back off the axle nut until its flush with the end of the axle and hit it with a hammer to drive the axle shaft back in the housing in an attempt to break it loose from the hub taper.



I should have mentioned to turn the nut around, castles in. Make sure the nut screws on easily/correctly. The edge of the nut needs to be flush with the end of the axle. Give it a whack. But, I guess I've been wrong for 60+ years. I've seldom used a 'real' puller and never hurt an axle.
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not a good idea,
 
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