Front axle wheel puller.

ETAModel

ETAModel

Senior Member
I ordered the knock off wheel puller from Snyders for my 30 Fordor and tried to use it yesterday. It's too small for the threads on my axle. The axle threads were 7/8", or 1 1/16 wrench size, which Andrews book says is right. Is the model T axle smaller? Did Snyders send me a Model T puller ?
Thanks.
 
What are you trying to do ?

Front wheels don't need a puller. Your arms are the puller.

For the rear, that thing you show is pretty much useless. In place of that thing just back off the axle nut until its flush with the end of the axle and hit it with a hammer to drive the axle shaft back in the housing in an attempt to break it loose from the hub taper.



I should have mentioned to turn the nut around, castles in. Make sure the nut screws on easily/correctly. The edge of the nut needs to be flush with the end of the axle. Give it a whack. But, I guess I've been wrong for 60+ years. I've seldom used a 'real' puller and never hurt an axle.
 
Last edited:

Attachments

  • EAA9F093-E173-48FB-8996-6144D4F727BD.jpg
    EAA9F093-E173-48FB-8996-6144D4F727BD.jpg
    4 KB · Views: 8
Don't use a knock off puller if you can help it. Don't turn the nut out and hammer on things. Get a good hub puller made for a model A, otherwise you may end up needing a new axle shaft.
 
From one rookie to another, there is something you should also be aware of.

The Woodruff? Key is to guide the hub and drum onto the axle smoothly and straight??? It must NOT be allowed to consistently carry the torque forces of driving the car. You must torque the axle nut heavily. The torque loads are carried by the tapered fit of the axle shaft and the inner hub. If the axle nut is not tightened enough, you will eventually break the axle. That will strand you on the road and it will not be cheap, quick or inexpensive.

Torque values are all over the place in the How To books and on this and other forums. I only use 75lbs. and have driven several thousand miles. Some say 90lbs. and some say way the heck up there. Remember, your axle is likely very old. I drive the car around the block a few times and recheck the nut for tightness. I use a new nut each time. They are cheap.
 
Last edited:
Rob Doe said:
I use a new nut each time. They are cheap.
Click to expand...

On one occasion when I used a new nut, it had a burr in the thread. I thought I needed a new axle till a friend offered to cut a new, smaller diameter thread over the old ruined one.
New nut - fine but check it first.
 
At times you can just loosen the nut a turn and drive the car around the block. That may loosen the hub enough to come off.
 
I have tried to use the puller in post #9 and have had not good luck with it. In my opinion the best puller is the Universal Hub Puller, A-1114-X, link below.

It is really easy to ruin the threads on the axle. Buy a nut that fits the axle and use that to protect the threads. Screw it on flush with the end of the axle. Do not use the castle nut that normally goes on the axle.

Banging on the end of the axle depends on inertia of the hub and the axle moving a bit and is not really a good idea.

Loosening the nuts and driving around will sometimes work.

Torque the nut to 200 foot-pounds and check it every 6 months. The axle, hub, and key must all be in good condition. Use the shimstock conical spacer if needed.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976169&cat=41753
 
Wow! I feel bad for a "new-be" that may not have much innate mechanical ability looking for advice on rear hubs. Torque from 75 to 200 ft-lb, wack on the nut or not, use a knocker, loosen and drive, special puller, old nut vs new nut, shim or not!!! Not much direction here, just confusion. Maybe the best advice is for the "new-be" to seek out ONE knowledgeable fellow and go with whatever he has done in the past.

Joe B
 
nkaminar said:
I have tried to use the puller in post #9 and have had not good luck with it. In my opinion the best puller is the Universal Hub Puller, A-1114-X, link below.

Torque the nut to 200 foot-pounds and check it every 6 months. The axle, hub, and key must all be in good condition. Use the shimstock conical spacer if needed.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976169&cat=41753
Click to expand...

Yes that the puller to get. It will pull either style hub. Made by Mitchell, the O/D people.

I would not recommend 200 ft/lbs tho. I torque mine to 100 ft/lbs.
 
Last edited:
JoeCB said:
Wow! I feel bad for a "new-be" that may not have much innate mechanical ability looking for advice on rear hubs. Torque from 75 to 200 ft-lb, wack on the nut or not, use a knocker, loosen and drive, special puller, old nut vs new nut, shim or not!!! Not much direction here, just confusion. Maybe the best advice is for the "new-be" to seek out ONE knowledgeable fellow and go with whatever he has done in the past.

Joe B
Click to expand...

I would always seek Bill Williamson's and Tom Wessenberg's advice on anything model a related. Rest in peace!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top