Lanny
Well-known member
hi Fech, I'm curious, what do you do to get the LEFT tire/wheel to rotate
again, when it locked up after a right turn ? Does just turning the
steering straight free it up OR what does ?
.
Front Axle 1939 Ford pickup
- Thread starter Fech
- Start date
hi Fech, I'm curious, what do you do to get the LEFT tire/wheel to rotate
again, when it locked up after a right turn ? Does just turning the
steering straight free it up OR what does ?
.
Hi all!
These days I have been trying all your suggestions:
1. Camber is very similar on both front wheels, with the wheels in the straight ahead on the floor, and on jack stands.
2. Tie in around 1/8".
3. Checking the Ackermann; the steering arms tie rod center is around 1/4" offset from a straight line from the lower kingpin center to the lower drain stud at the center of the differential (Please see pictures).
The passenger side steering arm has two holes, so I can't compare the same reference point to the backing plate, but apparently the distance is the same on LH and RH, around 1 1/2" hole center to b. plate.
I am assuming the front hole of the RH steering arm is the one that should align with the center kingpin-diff, or should it be the back hole of the Rh steering arm?
4. We tested mirroring the axle. It fixes the issue by turning to the right, but the same issue appears when turning to the left.
5. We noticed the steering stop bolts had something to do with this issue, but were not sure.
6. Also, when turning the steering wheel with the wheels on the floor, the spring behaves strangely. It tends to spread out and move the chassis in lieu of the wheels.
Can the steering arms be heated and bent to achieve the Ackermann configuration?
What else can be done? Axle, chassis?
These days I have been trying all your suggestions:
1. Camber is very similar on both front wheels, with the wheels in the straight ahead on the floor, and on jack stands.
2. Tie in around 1/8".
3. Checking the Ackermann; the steering arms tie rod center is around 1/4" offset from a straight line from the lower kingpin center to the lower drain stud at the center of the differential (Please see pictures).
The passenger side steering arm has two holes, so I can't compare the same reference point to the backing plate, but apparently the distance is the same on LH and RH, around 1 1/2" hole center to b. plate.
I am assuming the front hole of the RH steering arm is the one that should align with the center kingpin-diff, or should it be the back hole of the Rh steering arm?
4. We tested mirroring the axle. It fixes the issue by turning to the right, but the same issue appears when turning to the left.
5. We noticed the steering stop bolts had something to do with this issue, but were not sure.
6. Also, when turning the steering wheel with the wheels on the floor, the spring behaves strangely. It tends to spread out and move the chassis in lieu of the wheels.
Can the steering arms be heated and bent to achieve the Ackermann configuration?
What else can be done? Axle, chassis?
Attachments
drolston
Well-known member
From the picture, you checked Ackerman with the tie rod and drag link disconnected, and the string is pretty far outside of the center of the tie rod holes. That is the direction of error that would cause your problem (left and right tie rod holes too close together). But the string test is only valid with the tie rod installed, toe-in set correctly, and steering straight ahead. With the tie rod disconnected either or both wheels could have been bumped off of straight ahead, invalidating the measurement.
You mentioned that you checked the toe-in; also critical to this problem if it is set with way too much toe out instead a little toe in. Toe-in measurement is tricky to do unless you are on alignment equipment. How did you do it?
Lastly and not related to the problem: Like Mart, that spring bothers me. It should fit fully up inside the crossmember, centered by the spring through-bolt head in the square hole at the center of the cross member. I think your truck looks to be at least two inches too high at the front bumber. And the spring is too long. With the truck on the ground the front spring shackles should be angled inward at the bottom with an angle of about 45 degrees. Yours seem to be slightly angled outward. That could make for a rough ride and squirrley handling.
You mentioned that you checked the toe-in; also critical to this problem if it is set with way too much toe out instead a little toe in. Toe-in measurement is tricky to do unless you are on alignment equipment. How did you do it?
Lastly and not related to the problem: Like Mart, that spring bothers me. It should fit fully up inside the crossmember, centered by the spring through-bolt head in the square hole at the center of the cross member. I think your truck looks to be at least two inches too high at the front bumber. And the spring is too long. With the truck on the ground the front spring shackles should be angled inward at the bottom with an angle of about 45 degrees. Yours seem to be slightly angled outward. That could make for a rough ride and squirrley handling.
Hi Drolston,
I will check the Ackermann with the tie rods installed, but I think the rods will interfere with the string path.
Regarding the toe, we just use measurement tape front to front and back to back of each wheel.
I was told that the front of the pickup was too low, so the spring leaves were sent to be rolled, also a leaf was added. You are correct, it is a rough ride and squirrley handling. Could it be the spring part of the wheel problem?
I will check the Ackermann with the tie rods installed, but I think the rods will interfere with the string path.
Regarding the toe, we just use measurement tape front to front and back to back of each wheel.
I was told that the front of the pickup was too low, so the spring leaves were sent to be rolled, also a leaf was added. You are correct, it is a rough ride and squirrley handling. Could it be the spring part of the wheel problem?
Lanny
Well-known member
Hi Fech, As to the question about the left front wheel Not Rotating in #21
at the top of this page, I'm wondering if the brake line Flex Hose could possibly
be somewhat collapsed and NOT letting the brake fluid return to the master cyl.
This would cause the Left Front wheel to Not want to Rotate freely, and skid.
.
at the top of this page, I'm wondering if the brake line Flex Hose could possibly
be somewhat collapsed and NOT letting the brake fluid return to the master cyl.
This would cause the Left Front wheel to Not want to Rotate freely, and skid.
.
TerryOH
Well-known member
The front spring has a square headed bolt in the center (about 3/8" tall head) that fits into a square hole in the front crossmember. This does not allow the spring pack to move left or right, indexing the spring in the correct position. Between the spring and the crossmember is just a thin (about 1/6"thick) cushion fabric pad about 8" long X 2" wide. Appears your spring is not fully inserted into the crossmember you may want to check this out before making a bunch of measurements.
Terry, could you please provide a picture of the spring bolt location that you are referring to?
Mart, I am not sure if that mentioned nut is the original, please see the attachment.
Lanny, apparently there aren't any brake issues.
Attachments
pistonbroke
Well-known member
Fech, One or more parts here are damaged or incorrect for this truck. As stated above , the photo post 22 shows the left front in a totally wrong position for a left turn. It appears to be grossly over compensating in camber and turning radius. The steering arm measurement is taken from the king pin to the tie rod bolt or hole. Is it possible you have the drag link and the tie rod in the wrong holes? I have never looked at the steering on a 39 only my 41. Just thinking out side the box here. Tim
petehoovie
Well-known member
drolston
Well-known member
Sounds like you did the toe-in measurement correctly, and if the difference between frong-to-front and back-to-back was 1/16 to 1/8", you are good there. The spring is its own problem, but should not have much effect on the steering problem.
The axle stop nuts need to be on the back of the axle. Does that meen the axle is in backwards, as suggested earlier? Not having proper stops can cause the locking condition at full steering angle if the steering sector gear is run so far that it gets off of the worm gear.
Let us know what the string tells you when the tie-rod is back in. Once the steering is set straight ahead, it is okay if you remove the drag link from the right side to get it out of the way of your string path.
drolston
Well-known member
So it would be simple to remove the lock pin and turn it around so that the nut provides the steering stop the way it should.