front 57 wagon sway bar install

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
Ok, The front end is done except the sway bar. How the bloody hell does it go in? I put it up into position and it looks like I will have to 'bend' it a bit to get it to conform to the lower arms. Or do I need to rotate it around some more as it should just go straight into position? Any tips/tricks?

Bushings: I have seen bushings by Energy Suspension mentioned and looked at them. It looks like they only do the inner and then I have to stick with the stock outers. Is this correct? Thanks for all of the help as I want her back on the ground.

Mike
 
Not sure if it makes a difference on 57 but are the A arms at ride height or full drop. Is the car up on ramps or jack stands under frame. Energy suspension makes a lot of universal parts, used to be listed in back of catalog. They might not have an exact kit but you may be able to order the parts individually by measurements.
 
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If it's on jackstands and the A-arms are hanging in the air at full drop... getting the sway bar hardware to line up can be tough. (as you've discovered)

It should be much easier to install if you can use drive-on ramps under the front of the car,
with the suspension at 'normal ride height' or as close as possible.
.
 
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1930artdeco said:
Ok DM, I have a bottle jack so that I can do one side at a time.
Mike
Click to expand...
Not sure I'd try that. You might knock the car off the jackstands and make a big mess :eek: or hurt yourself (permanently), esp if the engine & trans are out of the car.

You won't need the swaybar until the car is driveable
so put it on later when the car is farther along.
 
Mike if you want to really improve the handling look at the 58 Edsel Ranger/Pacer bar. It will require mounts added to the frame rails but the holes for the link ends are already in the lower control arms. I believe that set up was used on 58s and 9s, maybe later up to 64.
 

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First of all, make sure you're not trying to install it upside down. Initially, wheels should be off the ground; I used stands and floor jack. Turn wheels to lock and maneuver each end into place, turning wheels in/out, as needed, for additional clearance. Once the sway bar has cleared lower control arms and is lined up, bolt the sway bar to the front cross-member/support at original location. Wheels don't have to be on the ground when bolting to cross-member. Attach end links, but do not completely tighten until the wheels are on the ground. If you can beg, borrow/steal ramps,put front wheels on ramps, level car with stands at the rear, and then tighten end links to specs.

I installed a Hotchkis tubular front bar on my 55 Tbird. Clearance around gravel pan/shield, below bumper, was tight, but it all worked out okay. I seem to recall that the Ford service manual actually says to remove the gravel pan; however, the Hotchkis instructions made no mention of it. In my case, it wasn't necessary, even though the Hotchkis bar is considerably thicker than OEM. Be patient, and you'll get 'er done.
 
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