French flathead any good?

Oakhurst

Oakhurst

Senior Member
I have access to what is represented as a new French flathead, Motor (still partially wrapped) appears to be complete, carb (Solex?), generator, starter, distributor, 6 blade fan. I understand these had a boss giving access to use a governor. Would this be a practical replacement motor for my 1936?
Any idea of the value. SF Flatheads in Sacramento CA says they get $3 to $4K
for a bare block. A complete motor built by others could be as much as $13K.
Should I follow up on the motor?
 
May need to machine the governor boss off for clearance. There are some articles online about recommended modifications.
 
Depends how much money is being asked. And how much you gotta change to get it in your car. Sumps are sometimes different, starter motor possibly 24 volt, as is generator,so no good. Carb is not that good, and parts expensive. May need all that lumpy business chopped of the back. Clutch 11". Water pumps useless, mounting is wrong bottom radiator hose 2".
Wether that's all the frog ones I can't say for sure, will need to do some homework to find out what's needed. Back of the block is 59A and earlier style, front of block is 8BA style. So has the gear on the end for the (useless) loadamatic advance type ignition. Not same as the 8BA but works the same.
Maybe more changes will be needed.
Ad I said do the homework.
Martin.
 
I understand that a 59 oil pan, flywheel and starter will work. If so this will bolt up to your 36. as far as the rest I don't have any knowledge. Hopefully the stock ford PU water pumps will bolt right up. The block it's self is very desireable and has several improvements over the original Ford block.
 
in addition to the above modifications, you'll need to drill a hole each side of bellhousing for the radius rods. The casting has provision for these holes, but they're not drilled.
 
Stock Ford 8BA, 8CM and 8RT pumps will bolt on. If your thinking about hopping it up, some have a stupid ridge in the inlet ports that really impedes flow.
Martin.
 
French motors are great, but look uponn them as donors for block, crank and pistons. You will need 59A sump, starter and flywheel and although you can use the heads, aftermarket 8BA style will bolt on, and 59A style will also work subject to the usual mods for this swap. The governor boss at the back may need machining down. The pistons have what I would call a "pointy" dome, and will not clear some heads. I had my pistons touching my offenhauser 8BA heads for example.

The motors with the bigger oil pan with the steel extension at the front are the 4" stroke ones.

there's lots of info on these motors on the internet. Google is your friend.

Mart.
 
I have used them since 2002 in many cars, and always get good results with them.
the blocks are stronger and most of internal parts are better quality just because it is newer... the last block I picked up was from 1978...





 
$13K for an engine rebuild. You may want to look into this a bit and get an realistic price. Check with H&H flatheads in CA and Mark Moriarty in NY see V8 Times for ad. If your car is anywhere near original the addition of the later block will decrease the value of the car to someone looking for a original.
 
Yes they are, especially with a little herb de' provence, grilled spring veggies and a bottle 1933 Poullie Fousie.
 
Does your 36 already have a flathead engine in it? If so, what year and model? If keeping it original looking is important, than finding a 36 LB engine with insert bearings would be a great way to go - though it will be 21 stud, be a little harder to find 'performance parts' for (if you care), etc..

There is nothing really magical about the French Flathead engine - especially for a stock style situation (probably not worth it). However, it is a really solid foundation for a performance flathead - given the reasons that others have shared. If money and originality are not a big concern, then I'd say go for it . . .

If you're looking for a solid 24 stud flathead to build for your 36 (not the highest performance possible), then you should be able to get a really nice engine done for a lot less than $13K. This is assuming that you know what to buy, how to specify a build to match your pocketbook, etc..

Feel free to contact me off-line . . . drop me a PM and I can then drop you my phone number, happy to help and give you some perspective. I've been into these beasts for 40 years - stock, performance and full-on race, be happy to help you and give you some things to think about.

Dale
 
The French manufactured engines are pretty truck like since that's what they were made for but they are at least a useable replacement block that is of quality manufacture. They are in finite supply so at some point, they too will be harder to find.

They do take some work to prep the blocks and they are all relieved to the best of my knowledge. I wish that there were more of the 6 7/8" connecting rods available so we could use the lesser expensive Ford pistons with our 4-inch Merc crankshafts. I think the supply of those is dwindling pretty fast unless you find a SUMB engine with the 4-inch crank in it.
 
Thanks for all the input. I think I am going to pass on the motor. If anybody else is interested, it is in the St George area in Utah. If you PM me or email (rwendt@sti.net)
I will respond.
 
Rotorwrench:

A word of caution re using the 6-7/8" rods and the ford pistons. I did this on my 4" French motor and used the 3-5/16" pistons from speedway. The pistons hit the crank at the bottom of the stroke. I had to rig up a setup on my lathe and take some material off the sides of the shirts.

It all went well after that.

When I mentioned it at the time I was told the Ross pistons will fit no problem.

Mart.
 
Using a shorter rod is going the wrong way when stroking an engine. That's why the chebby guys use a 6" rod in their engines instead of the stock 5.7" rods. Why they used a shorter rod instead of re-locating the wrist pin iz beyond me.
 
Ron, I imagine that as it was a military engine and rev limited, rod length is not an issue and only having to keep supplies of one type of piston took preference. I understand what you are saying from a high performance standpoint.

Mart.
 
I just clicked on one of the pictures shown above and got taken over by a virus. Beware!!
 
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