freed up stuck engine

D

donQ

Senior Member
A friend had a stuck engine that we were able to free up with a 50-50 mixture of ATF and acetone. The engine will continue to be stored for some time.Will leaving the acetone /ATF mixture in the engine cause problems or should it be cranked out of the engine and the oil changed?
donQ
 
I might be tempted to get a small funnel and introduce something with some clinging power like chainsaw bar oil. Then turn it over a few times. Will it be possible to turn it over once or twice a year til restoration time?
 
I wouldn't let it sit "forever" with the 50/50/in it. The acetone will evaporate and you will be left with who knows what? If you hand crank it a few revs every couple of weeks I would put oil in it and maybe even squirt a little in each cylinder before turning. Hand cranking is not going to pump oil into the system.
 
I fill the crankcase and water passages with used motor oil . Something my father did . I recently tore a small block Chevy I stored since 1989 and once drained it cranked and was clean inside , the oil removed all gunk and settled it in the pan . I also fill each cyl and intake as much as possible . It was stored in a shed , dry but not air conditioned . I live in south Florida where humidity is 80 plus .
 
As said by chap52, the acetone will evaporate, and quite quickly unless it
is in a sealed container.
I have been experimenting with the 50/50 mix. I have had a very rusty
bolt soaking in a sealed jar of 50/50 mix for well over a year now.
Every so often, I take the rusty bolt out to see if I can get the rusty nut
to budge, but I can NOT get it to move at all, even with 1/2" drive tools.

For the first 1/2 year, I added more acetone every time I opened the
jar to check the rusty nut and bolt, hopeing that it would soon do the job.
So, it's well over a year now, and I just checked it again a few minuets ago,
and the nut still won't budge.

If anyone is getting rusty stuff to come loose with the 50/50 mix, then, in
my opinion, it was not very rusty, and would have come loose using dang
near any thing.

If the 50/50 mix worked good on rusty stuff, some big company would have
been marketing it by now.
My experiment has shown the 50/50 mix to be a joke.

I had an equally rusty nut and bolt soaking in PB Blaster for a few days
and the nut finally broke loose using the big 1/2" drive tools.







.
 
Last edited:
Denny, I have used paraffin wax on tight threaded bolts or plugs,
using just a little heat so the wax melts into the treads.
I use this method where you don't want to heat red hot.

I have never tried wax on real rusty threads.
I would just heat them red hot if you can.






.
 
Thanks for the input. We will be able to add oil and turn it over once or twice a year. I had forgotten about the acetone evaporating. Chainsaw bar oil sounds like a good idea and from your avatar GB, it looks like you've got a lot of experience with chain saw bar oil.
Thanks again,
donQ
 
donQ said:
Thanks for the input. We will be able to add oil and turn it over once or twice a year. I had forgotten about the acetone evaporating. Chainsaw bar oil sounds like a good idea and from your avatar GB, it looks like you've got a lot of experience with chain saw bar oil.
Thanks again,
donQ
Click to expand...

It is very 'clingy'.....
 
I'm not sure, but in my mind, if the acetone evaporates out of the 50 50 mix, you are left with ATF. Which is basically an oil, so not a bad thing to have left in there.

I'd just apply oil to the cylinders and turn it over at least 2 full turns when convenient. Once or twice a year sounds ok. Twice being better than once.

Mart.
 
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