Frame welting application

[Gary Karr]

You are correct. The rubber pads are tacked to the bottom side of the body blocks and sit on top of the frame. Any shims would also go between the body block and the frame.

 

[lake_harley]

Thanks! And one last question (hopefully) so I completely have the mounting scheme, there's just a rubber pad between the last mounting point and the wood block at the rear crossmember? I'm talking about the long, slim body block located at the rear crossmember "ear".

But, forward of that, it's frame/welting/fender and splash apron/pad/wood body block/shims (as and if necessary) all topped off with the body. If that's correct, I think I finally have a mental picture of the assembly. I learn by picturing things, either in reality like a photo or diagram, or mentally, in my mind. Thanks for bearing with me!

Lynn

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Brent, It's interesting that you choose to criticize Marco's knowledge by using a single post extracted from a thread that is more than 10 years old and was made on the Old Fordbarn Forum, which can't even be accessed anymore to see what else might have been said at the time. At the same time, the challenged comments you made in the above linked threads, with regard to the frame welting being glued to both the fender and the apron, and not the frame, which were questioned at the time, you have yet to respond to. Care to elaborate now?

Randy, you are trolling!! I said nothing in my post above that criticizes Marco! Marco is someone I have a huge respect for, and he likely has more Model-A knowledge right now than I ever will (-and I have been involved in Model-As for 60 years and have been hands-on in the restoration of over 150 Model-As.)!

Now the facts are there often are times where two restorers have differing opinions as to what they believe to be authentically correct. I know Marco well enough to know he did not post some random information without him researching it first to obtain his answer. I simply posted that my research had a different answer than his, ...and I chose to substantiate mine using copies of prints that I obtained from the Benson Library. This is not the only instance where I have found verifiable information that counters what other knowledgeable restorers have stated, -or even what is published in the Restoration Guidelines & Judging Standards.


Now with regard to me not posting that picture to substantiate my claim, it was YOU that actually gave me the reason for not posting that picture back then, ...and with your above comments, the very same reason still applies. You see, I have spent many hours/days/trips researching at the Benson Library looking for such information. Additionally, I have spent my own money on travel to/from, & lodging while there, and I purchased the picture itself from the library. This very image is available for anyone that wants to do the same things as I did to obtain it. The issue for me is, it is people that take my efforts and copy it for their own collection without providing any effort or contribution back. Therefore, I am choosing not to publicly post my picture since the risk of piracy is not worth the reward of validation to me at this time. FWIW, I have shown that very picture to guests in my office for their review, and I would not have any issue privately showing it to a guest. So as I stated above, if you (-or anyone else) choose to disagree with my statements, that is perfectly acceptable to me however my attitude will be 'whatever' until you can prove my statement is incorrect.


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[George Iowa]

Great posts, 1) Does anyone still treat the welting (Asphaltum) If so, what product do you use? Or is this no longer done and just keep the welting the way it came out of the package? 2) Do you trim the webbing to fit the skinnier front horns or just let it hang over?

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Great posts, 1) Does anyone still treat the welting (Asphaltum) If so, what product do you use? Or is this no longer done and just keep the welting the way it came out of the package? 2) Do you trim the webbing to fit the skinnier front horns or just let it hang over?

I don't think there is a reason to use anything other than straight from the package unless it is for Fine Point.

Even then, there is discrepancy on thickness and width. My prints show the original anti-squeak (welt) to be 1/16" thick and 1-3/4" wide, and it specifically says it was a 12 oz per square yard Broken Twill Weave Knapped Cotton Cloth, and it was 18oz after a 180° treatment. Therefore the asphaltum base was very light. That is why most of what we find on original cars has all of the asphalt leached out.

To my recollection, the Stds does not specify a color, so I have used cotton strapping and colored it with shoe polish. Also, while some tend to believe it was installed as one piece from the rearward most area of the body apron up to the front, the original prints show the body aprons and the fenders as having separate pieces cut. So if you wish to be correct, the anti-squeak needs to be cut in separate pieces.

And finally, the print shows the Fender anti-squeak being a uniform width throughout from each end.

 

[Will N]

In another similar thread I was asking a question about welting and this ^^^ is the answer I was looking for. So am I correct in assuming that there is no welting between frame and other body mount points aft of the rear of the splash aprons? Body mount blocks go directly to the frame with nothing in between? Are there rubber shim pads on top of all of the blocks, or do the the shims/pads go underneath the block between the frame and block?

Lynn

I don't have the JS handy, but I believe I recall that it shows that welting went on the frame brackets that the body bolts go through in front of the center cross member and on the rear cross member. I may be wrong.

 

[Ed in Maine]

I don't think it does any harm to cover the frame. Any metal to metal or metal to wood contact is a potential squeak. I admit that I carry it to an extreme by putting very thin pieces of rubber or gaskets between parts to prevent squeaks and rust. I go through all this extra work only to find that when you hit a bump, all you hear is the brake rods! Ed

 

[George Iowa]

Not a fine point car. I decided to cut my at the end of the body apron and cut to fit the horns up front. My cuts were made with a soldiering iron which worked great. I just wondered if anything was used on the welting to keep moisture down and rust away. Thanks again for all the input!

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I don't have the JS handy, but I believe I recall that it shows that welting went on the frame brackets that the body bolts go through in front of the center cross member and on the rear cross member. I may be wrong.

This one??

 

[George Iowa]

Thanks for all your ideas.