Frame Straightening
- Thread starter 40fordpu
- Start date
fordcragar
Senior Member
Most shops will charge you a hourly rate, they might have a minimum charge though just to set it up. The price is going to be determined by how badly damaged it is.
Probably the best thing to do is call around to frame and alignment shops.
Without seeing your frame it would be hard to give you any other info. If your chassis is rolling, then it would be easier to roll in and straighten then it would be if the chassis is bare.
Probably the best thing to do is call around to frame and alignment shops.
Without seeing your frame it would be hard to give you any other info. If your chassis is rolling, then it would be easier to roll in and straighten then it would be if the chassis is bare.
PeteVS
Well-known member
Wescotts has a wonderful set of Ford frame drawings with dimensions. Link is below.
http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/FrameDiagram1935-40.pdf
If your frame is bare, you'll need these to make sure all the holes are in the right places when it's body mount time.
http://www.wescottsauto.com/WebCatalog/FrameDiagram1935-40.pdf
If your frame is bare, you'll need these to make sure all the holes are in the right places when it's body mount time.
sanborn
Senior Member
Inspect your frame very closely----36 to 40 frames tend to crack at the junction of the front of the X member to the main frame rails. And this crack will let your frame rails deform. That was the experience with my frame---once the repair was made, the frame was within tolerance. As added insurance, I boxed the frame at that section on both sides and welded a small gusset where the X member attached to the main rails on both sides in front and back.
Spend time getting the frame accurate, it will pay dividends when you start mounting the body and getting the doors and front fender/hood to fit properly.
I was fortunate, I had access to a surface plate!
Spend time getting the frame accurate, it will pay dividends when you start mounting the body and getting the doors and front fender/hood to fit properly.
I was fortunate, I had access to a surface plate!
Tim Brown
Senior Member
I had a 1937 frame straightened at a local bodyshop. I took it there as a roller with no body attached and also took them the westcott book. It was only out of whack by about 1/2 inch. The shop fixed it and only charged me 150.00 When I got it home the tudor sedan body fit perfect and all the bolt holes lined up! It worked out great in my case...
Milt/Las Vegas
Senior Member
Well I had a bad experience.I took my 40 rolling frame without the body to a local frame shop with the Westcott catalogue.I made the mistake of not diagonally measuring the frame before putting the body back on.My frame horns are a 1/2 inch too wide and are bent to the right.I took the car back to them,and they told me that if they tried to straighten the horns that it would effect the rest of the frame.So,consequently nothing fits right up front,and I've had to live with it.So,my advice to anyone measure your frame before installing the body.
fordcragar
Senior Member
It sounds like they didn't do the job that you paid them for. You should expect the frame to come back measuring correctly. It sounds like the frame is still diamond, with the right side back.
One piece of advice that I would offer to anyone contemplating having someone straighten a frame, would be to ask people for references for good shops. Ask body shops that don't do their own frames, suppliers and other body shop vendors or hobbyists in your area. They are not all created equally.
I've worked in body shops where we had frame equipment, but not all of the guys that worked there were good on a frame rack. That said, with frame shops, that is their business.
TomT/Williamsburg
Well-known member
Not for anything but 35-40 frames are riveted together which means they might be off due to sitting crazy or whatever. I would get things all on the level, check your measurements using Wescott's drawings, and see what is exactly wrong. This means a bare frame placed on a level surface - usually your garage floor and/or jackstands will suffice. As long as you are level to the floor, you're good. You may easily be able to do whatever you may need yourself, especially with a little help here from the Fordbarn. If for nothing else, it's a great way to educate yourself on 35-40 frames.
David J
Well-known member
I agree - many bodyshops have frame straightening systems but not all bodymen are good at it . A frame shop that only does frame work is your best bet . The surface plate idea is good as the best tool for straightening frames is a frame rack - basicially a surface plate with moveable towers to pull on or hold stuff . The key is FLAT as all your heights are measured off the rack . I am not familiar with wescotts stuff but a factory print will show your important dimensions from side and above with the locations of the holes to use for reference . The side view will give you a datum line - This is your BASELINE that is normally taken from two points on each side generally at the front and rear of the flat center section of the frame side rail and you do not need to set your frame to this height as this is just a function of how tall your stands or blocks are BUT you need to set the front and rear EXACTLY the same otherwise your fore and aft measurements will be all out of wack . This will generally be level with the rack or plate . ie put 12 " blocks or whatever in the 4 corners of the center section of the frame and check your datum heights . Shim as needed to get the front and rear datum points equal . but make sure that whatever you do to one side you do EXACTLY the same to the other . You will need to know EXACTLY how far off the dimension is from the stated datum in the print so you can add or subtract that amount from ALL HEIGHT measurements . ie if the datum line in the print is 12 " and your frame is actually at 18" you need to add 6 " to all the height measurements . On your top stuff make sure your widths are all proper and then measure DIAGONALLY or X measure all holes that are marked on the print as reference points . This will tell you if one side is back or more commonly called diamond in the busisness . I cannot do this for you but I still own a good frame rack that we use for fixing racecars that get bent up and I have fixed quite a few frames in my time and can help with ideas if needed . The shop will like it to be rolling and steering with the front and rear axle assys easily removeable . Without knowing what is wrong with your frame it is hard to say more as the axles may not be in the way depending on the issues . Good luck and like others have said look around as frame straighteners are not all equal . PS old ford frames straighten EASILY with good equipment .
40fordpu
Well-known member
Thanks...Any advice is good...I will upload pics as soon as possible. Two things though, what is a wescott book and how do I get one (I know it deals with frame measurements) and also, does anyone know any good shops in southern california? Thanks
Also, would it be best to get the cab fitted first before jumping into trying to straighten the frame, or should the frame be straightened first to "correct" the cab bolt locations? (based on your comments on the cabs lining up)
Also, would it be best to get the cab fitted first before jumping into trying to straighten the frame, or should the frame be straightened first to "correct" the cab bolt locations? (based on your comments on the cabs lining up)
David J
Well-known member
I would leave the cab off - it will only be in the way . I just printed out the wescott data and it looks useable . This looks more like a production print than one for straightening as every hole is laid out and in your case most won't be needed as the distance between most of your bolt holes will be fine - you just need to figure out where it is off . They also don't have any X measurements that are always present on prints meant for frame repair . The way I would use this print follows : They are using the top of the side rail as the datum line and all you will need to do is get four blocks that are exactly the same height on a FLAT surface and put them in the front and rear of flat central area of your frame . The front point will be where the notation is 5 1/2 and the rear will be just forward of the rear kickup . ie the corners of the low flat central area of your frame . Make sure the blocks are set the same on both sides so you don't get a false reading . If this doesn't come out the central part of your frame is twisted and you need to start straightening now as this is ground zero . When this is right check the height of the top of the rail above the blocks and you can add or subtract the dimensions of the other points on your frame to see where it is bent . The next thing would be to tie a string between the center hole in the front and rear crossmembers and stretch it VERY TIGHT as this will help you see if there is any shift in the center crossmember and also the dimensions are all off of the centerline in the print . Make sure the string is in the center of the hole and also all frame print dimensions are to the center of holes . I am taking for granted wescott knows this . To check the portions extending past the crossmembers just go from the center of the hole where the string is and measure out to the frame tips and that will tell you if they are bent . Your width measurements need to be RIGHT before you do this step . To check for diamond I would use the hole or rivet that is at the back edge of the rear crossmember and the holes they show in the side rails where the X members meet the side rails in front and also the motormount holes . When these dimensions are within 1/16 on width and 1/8 on X measurements and 1/16 on heights your cab will fit as will all the other stuff providing nothing is bent . It's easy to take X and width measurements of your cabs mounting bolt holes when it is off and check against your frame . With a string and a tape measure you can usually find a frames problems quickly .
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PeteVS
Well-known member
The "Wescotts Book" is their catalog of fiberglass bodies and parts. They're recognized as a leader in this field. Fortunately, they've placed most, if not all, the information on their website. My post above (I think it's the third in this thread) has a direct link to what should be the exact drawing you're interested in.