Frame Issues - Need Advice

Pech33

Pech33

Senior Member
My 40 convertible has a few issues as you can see by the pictures. No problems from the transmission forward (thanks to oil leaks etc over 81 years). Everything starts at the center reinforcement plate. The plate has been removed and re-welded (sort of). The rest of the issues are rearward (a few more rust through spots) and my question is does it make sense to try to repair these issues or go with a replacement frame? If I have to take the body off, I know there is special treatment for a convertible to keep it from bending, so I need advice on that too. I bent a 67 Bronco about 30 years ago (I still have it) and had to replace the rocker panels. Not interested in screwing this up! It has a 59 series engine and disc brakes up front, so it is not a points car. It is a driver (when not raining). Thanks.
 

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A lot depends on your skills and what tools and materials available. From what I can see, it is mostly patch work. If you understand how welding can pull and warp metal, and if you have something solid, like an I beam (or three) you can clamp the frame to when you weld in the patch, go for it. For certain if you just start cutting and welding the frame will move. Good luck.
 
The available reproduction frames are a definite good idea for a street rod (IFS, sbChev or sbFord, automatic trans, 9" rear end, custom brake pedal and mc mount). They are not going to be detailed for easy installation of original transmission, rear end and wishbone, brakes, front axle and wishbone and steering.


If you repair (patch) your existing frame you need to check it over very carefully. 1935-40 frames commonly get crap between the x-member and the outer frame rails, the crap gets wet and creates rot. Often to do a decent repair the outer rails and the x-member need to be separated... then the spaghetti noodles need to be coaxed back into shape.


No easy, one answer fits all situation.
 
Jack it up and put another under it. We took my brothers 55 T bird body off and jumped on the chassis and it broke in two. Just saying !
 
It looks like some pretty serious rust issues ,the frame needs to come off .With respect do you have the skilsl to do a professorial job I think you should look for another frame .The rust is typical of the front wheels flicking water onto were the frame sides meet rhe X member .I have done these repairs by cutting one skin first ,as Swedish says brass it or cut through the top and bottom flage remove the inner section fabricate a new one tack it in then cut down the outer and remove that section ,fabricate and weld in the outer this way it should keep it straight ,mak your cuts on a 4/5 Deg angle
 
Find a donor frame from a reg car and find a good welder. Your conv. frame has some reinforcements that reg frames do not have. A good welder can do some neat patches and reinforcements.
 
There are some repair sections available from vendors. Anyone have experience with them? I would suppose I need the two curved sections that meet in the middle of the car and the rear sections. Speedway sells the outside rails (out of stock of course).
 
Check with Joe's Antique Auto Parts in MA, he lists frame repair parts. My frame has rust issues where the X member meets the side rails as described in an earlier post. I decided to get a replacement frame.
 
Pretty typical areas to look at when buying an old ford. Catches road debris and doesn't cleanout well naturally. Probably more of an issue driving winters up north or the rust/salt belt after the 80's too.


All is not lost. If you are patient chassis do pop up. If you are skilled it can be fixed.


If you are getting a streetrod frame. don't forget to add mounts for the sbc and airbags. I'm just kidding... or am I! I'm just kidding.


It's a tough fix. It's after all the frame and will require a ton of work. Best of luck! Hope it goes well!!!
 
My Flatty is sweet and I love the three on the tree. I have talked with one aftermarket frame supplier and they said I could get flathead motor mounts. It then brings into play whether to stay with the wishbone front and rears. I would rather repair the frame but if I have to pull the body I have to think hard about which way to go. I don’t weld, but I can take anything apart and put it back together (maybe not an automatic trans). There is not a lot of room inside the frame to clean it up with the body on. It needs tires too, so lots of things to consider whether to stay with 6.50 x 16 or go more modern size. Frame has to be decided on first.
 
A wise man knows his limitations and recognizes his strengths.

Make a plan and go! I'd certainly include that frame as #1. Either way it's a frame off consideration build.
 
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I'd find a different frame (there are plenty out there) and then move/graft on any specific convertible pieces from your frame. I'm not an expert in 40's, so I don't claim to know the differences. When a frame is this rusted, the amount of work to "restore" it is far in time and $$$ than finding a replacement frame. No matter what - it can't be truly fixed with a body on it - not possible.
 
I agree with B&S......you have to take the body off to do it right....you might as well put a new frame under it. It’ll be quicker......Mark
 
I'm with the 'find a frame' guys. If you really want to go to wide tires and IFS etc, there are lots out there already done. You just need to contact them and ask what they did with their 'worthless' stock frame and axles when they went StreetRod. Gag me with a brake spoon.
 
I've always said that streetrodders are the "Gift that keeps on giving" for guys like us.
 
tubman said:
I've always said that streetrodders are the "Gift that keeps on giving" for guys like us.
Click to expand...

That's a great way to look at it! I never have a problem finding good 4 1/2 x 16 5 lug wheels at a swap meet. Nice exhaust manifolds can often be had for five bucks. And that's just the tip of the iceburg.
 
I have not seen anyone address the body, to brace it you have to weld in x bracing across the a pillars and b pillars, make sure you use strong material, also, brace across the top of the door openings from a to b at the top. Depending on how strong your floor pan is, you may also run x braces inside the trunk and x from a to b from opposite side inside the car. I used this method on my '48 merc coupe that had no floors or bottoms on the quarter panels. Good luck.
 
Look back at Kube's posts when he was building the 'vert, there are some good pictures of the body brace set-up he uses.
I'm with the "find a good original frame" crew.
Other than the extra bracing it would be a bolt together project. An aftermarket street rod frame is in a totally different ballpark.
 
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