Fram oil supply line suggestions

rockfla

rockfla

Well-known member
Anyone have a suggestion on a source for an oil supply line for a Fram external oil filter canister? As you see the flare on the canister side broke and the hose is cracked and getting short for ware. All of my local sources can make me a more "modern" hose which is also bigger and is also $ 50.00. and I hope will fit under the bottom of the canister into the fitting??? I bit the bullet so I can at least drive my car in the interim BUT would like to get something more period correct looking!!!!


FYI One end (The block side) is 1/8" NPT the other (Canister side) is a #4 inverted flare and NOT 1/8" NPT
 

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You could make it out of steel tubing (fuel line). Both ends are fixed so should be OK. It's short so tight bends are difficult would be the hardest part.
 
I would use Aeroquip as it looks a little better than rubber hydraulic hose and crimped ends
 
Thanks for the opinions, I think I'm gonna just delete it from the car as they aren't that effective anyway!!!
 
Disagree with "aren't that effective", but on the other hand, flatheads were driven for years without filters. If you change the oil often it should be fine.
 
rockfla said:
Thanks for the opinions, I think I'm gonna just delete it from the car as they aren't that effective anyway!!!
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I don't know where you got the information that they weren't that effective. Bypass filters actually are more effective than full flow filters for two reasons: First, they trap finer particulates than full flow, and second, full flow filters must pass oil unfiltered should the filter get clogged up, while a bypass filter can simply stop the flow.
 
I'll go a step further and say that the way the vast majority of these cars are used and maintained, a bypass filter is superior to a full flow filter.
 
Rockfla:

Since you already have the canister, use it by using 1/4 in. steel fuel line with a loop in it to absorb any vibration. A flathead engine is solidly mounted and doesn't "rock and roll" so as to create a problem. Or, use a filter that bolts to the head bolts/ studs. They are plentiful. Also, you could leave the filter canister you already have on the firewall but, install a rubber pad under it to absorb vibration. Those OEM filters do work well.

Another idea is to modify the Fram filter by adding a 3 hole base from an old Ford OEM canister. It would be easy to do if you have access to a welder.
 
19Fordy said:
Rockfla:

Since you already have the canister, use it by using 1/4 in. steel fuel line with a loop in it to absorb any vibration. A flathead engine is solidly mounted and doesn't "rock and roll" so as to create a problem. Or, use a filter that bolts to the head bolts/ studs. They are plentiful. Also, you could leave the filter canister you already have on the firewall but, install a rubber pad under it to absorb vibration. Those OEM filters do work well.

Another idea is to modify the Fram filter by adding a 3 hole base from an old Ford OEM canister. It would be easy to do if you have access to a welder.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info.......3 hole base???? I was thinking about see "IF" i could change the 90* elbow on the bottom to something more "friendly" and easier to find.....BUT I maybe look at the "coiling" of a "hard" line OR maybe trying to see since the "original" line/Look is not an option them maybe something out of a SS braided line.
 
I used 1/4 inch nickel/copper brake line from NAPA for my oil filter lines. They bend easily without kinking and are easy to use. I am not concerned with originality.
 
Holeshot said:
It's not wrong! It's WRONG!!!


If you are going to do the angry pirate tubman, at least do it correctly.:D
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I suggest you try posting the word "WRONG" in capital letters all by itself in a response. There is something in the forum software that won't allow you to do it.

Also, thank you for agreeing with me.:D
 
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