Found Very Concerning Issue

petehoovie said:
I have used this product with great success > https://www.kseal.com/products/k-seal
No draining or flushing of cooling system with this product - will mix with anti freeze....

product-k-seal.png
Click to expand...

Petehoovie, did you use this stuff on flatheads with success? Do you think with my scenario its worth a try?
 
billybronco1 said:
Petehoovie, did you use this stuff on flatheads with success? Do you think with my scenario its worth a try?
Click to expand...


Yes. I used it for a leaking head gasket in my 21 stud '34 engine. It worked like a champ. Give it a shot. It's a little spendy but you get what you pay for....
 
Sounds good, I read about and I think its worth a try. I'm try to figure on do I need an 8 or 16 ounce bottle. I can't seem to find the flathead coolant capacity online.
 
Decisions - decisions what to buy, K-seal regular all purpose, K-seal HD, K-seal Ultimate? Probably should spend the big bucks and get the ultimate!
 

K-Seal ULTIMATE K3501-Just Pour & Go – No Need for Expensive Head Gasket Repairs

Guaranteed to make a repair or your money back

K-Seal ULTIMATE K3501 Head Gasket Repair is the simple, permanent fix for blown head gaskets, cracked heads and blocks, and porous engine blocks. Guaranteed repair for the life of your engine, or your money back!
Our unique formula works with all water-cooled engines – there’s no need to drain or flush your cooling system, and it doesn’t matter what kind of antifreeze or coolant you’ve used previously. Simply shake the bottle, pour K-Seal ULTIMATE into your cooling system, and you’re back on the road.
Just one bottle of K-Seal ULTIMATE is enough to fix blown head gaskets and cracked heads in cars, SUVs and small trucks. For larger engines, simply use two bottles.
 
Do your friends accuse you of worry/indecision too often? I'll add one more choice,
I like AlumaSeal powder.

I'm betting with a proper re-torque and a dash of stop leak you'll get things in order.
 
Last edited:
my4dv8 said:
Not sure why folk say back off the head nuts to re torque . I never have and never will ,to my way of thinking it unsettles any sealing done on the threads . A properly lubed nut or stud only need to be torqued down, maybe 3 times or More until the nut/stud settles . Only up if the head is coming off.
Click to expand...


Try it next time with a pen mark on the stud and the nut you will be supersized, even the most well lubed nut will sometimes not turn, you need to overcome that little bit of friction that makes the wrench click.


most manuals say re tighten a cople times then after a few hundred kms back each one off and re torque
 
If antifreeze is getting into the cylinders, you can often smell it at the exhaust. That would depend upon the amount leaking, of course, and the reliability of your sniffer!
 
The more I think of this I really would like to fix this leak right instead out of a can. I'm just afraid if I pull or try to pull the heads I might open up a can of worms. If I break a stud or something, I'm really mixed on what to do. A friend of mine has pulled many a heads and said he would help me so maybe that is the way to go. Does anyone have a good reading or youtube on all the tricks of taking the heads of a 21 stud?
 
Lot of work with studs, seems much easier to at least try a sealer first. Do you realize some builder put in a sealant in new rebuilds?
 
No I did not know that. I Have been trying to loosen some nuts a tad, will re torque everything once I get my torque wrench, most are moving okay, a few stubborn ones. Guess I will have to sleep on the idea what to do, I did order some K-seal ultimate
 
I agree with "JSeery"; avoid removing the heads and fooling around with the studs if at all possible. Getting the nuts off without breaking any studs is just the beginning of your problems. You can have every nut off and in a can 50 feet from the car and the heads usually still won't move. If you have the time, browse around the web for pictures of fixtures that were made for this very purpose. Most of them resemble medieval torture devices and can cause almost as much pain. That will give you a taste of what you're in for.
 
Last edited:
billybronco1 said:
No I did not know that. I Have been trying to loosen some nuts a tad, will re torque everything once I get my torque wrench, most are moving okay, a few stubborn ones. Guess I will have to sleep on the idea what to do, I did order some K-seal ultimate
Click to expand...

Don’t loosen them all at once, just one at a time with the bar then bring it back up with the toque wrench in the right pattern,
 
billybronco1 said:
No I did not know that. I Have been trying to loosen some nuts a tad, will re torque everything once I get my torque wrench, most are moving okay, a few stubborn ones. Guess I will have to sleep on the idea what to do, I did order some K-seal ultimate
Click to expand...

It only takes one stud to break and your looking at alot of time , money and labor ! Remove engine , remove as much as you can , send , take to machine shop , have the stud repaired and then see what the problem is = hundreds if not a thousand dollars . Use the bottle fix first .
Im using the $1000 amount as im pretty sure you dont have a engine hoist , engine stand , maybe a truch to transport to a qualified FLAT HEAD MACHINE SHOP . Dont make a beautiful car into a project that grows too big and gets put off and eventually sold . Use it , drive it , enjoy it . Life is getting shorter for all of us .
 
Condensation is normal, our v8 does it also. If you are running rich or the exhaust system is old it tends to be stained black. Even my BMW has condensation at the exhaust on cold start ups.

If you really had a bad leak, I think you would see it leak all the time at the exhaust fittings, and it would be green on a paper towel. I would probably remove the exhaust manifold and scope the exhaust port for signs of leaks before I removed the heads. Removing the heads would be my last resort. Once you take the head off you are going to have to scrape the head surface risking getting trash all down in the piston rings, etc. Thus the whole can of worms thing.

JB
 
Have not tried the K-seal yet still screwing around with the exhaust. I did start the car and warmed it up, then pulled the plug that showed antifreeze. Was wondering if it would stop when the engine was hot, the answer was no and when I pulled the muffler off the exhaust pipe dripped antifreeze - not good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top