Found Very Concerning Issue

If you don't have a torque wrench, BUY ONE. They're not that expensive, and anyone who is into cars (old or new) should have one.
 
billybronco1 said:
There seemed to be a lot of water (black sooty water) coming out of the exhaust when it first started it and I revved it up. But it did not appear to be anti freeze. But never the less there should not be anti freeze in the spark plug hole sitting on the valves.

Also why don't I have flat washers under the head nuts. Is this must have or just a good idea?
Click to expand...

Sound like the condensation coming out the exhaust, I get that when I start my '53.

You need hardened washers under the nuts not just flat washer they MUST be hardened to function correctly.
 
Your 1936 Ford when new was fitted with aluminium cylinder heads (not painted) and had rather thick steel washers under the head nuts. During the life of many cars the aluminium heads gave trouble and were replaced by cast iron heads (painted) which were more durable. The cast iron heads did not require the washers under the nuts. Torque specs for aluminium heads and cast iron heads are different. Regards, Kevin.
 
I had a lot more that a tablespoon and the condensation could be related to the hot air heater and all its tubes collecting water. Its probably not related to the coolant in the spark plug hole. But then again as the coolant burns off it could make steam and as it goes down the exhaust pipe turns back to water. I fell upon that by accident by pulling a plug to get the number off it. It just so happen the one plug I pulled was the one with the coolant in it. So what ever the case the heads need to come off. The one nut I took off did not come off easy all the way to the end.

This is not the original engine and I'm just going by what the original owner told me. I put a magnet on the heads this morning and it sticks, so they can not be aluminum. I counted 21 studs.
 

Attachments

  • Spark plug hole.jpg
    Spark plug hole.jpg
    59.9 KB · Views: 108
Do it the right way - don’t use the breaker bar; buy or rent a torque wrench and tighten each bolt in the recommended sequence.
 
Since the torquing process actually stretches the bolt, some like to initially torque (in the correct sequence) to just under the specifications, and then follow with a second torque after a brief interval to full spec so as to ensure a more accurate tightening.
 
Jacques1960 said:
Do it the right way - don’t use the breaker bar; buy or rent a torque wrench and tighten each bolt in the recommended sequence.
Click to expand...

billy, sometimes you can borrow tools from auto parts stores. Not sure the practice in the Boston area and not sure if torque wrenches are included, but might be worth the trouble to inquire while you save up for one of your own.

Agee, you need to own one....1/2 inch and calibrated in foot/pounds....most are but I managed to find one that only measured in Newton....not very useful to me:D
 
You guys probably will cringe at this but, I tried to free a few of the nuts and I'm afraid I will break a stud. One stud above the hole with the anti freeze in it is rusty and does not feel good when I try to loosen it with the breaker bar. My gut is the stud is leaking. Is every one against trying an engine block sealer? The leak seems to be very minor and probably only when its cold. I do need to do some more experiments.
 
You said >"So this 36 I just bought has a rebuilt engine with about 3K miles on it." And you said > "I started it up and noticed when it was cool lots of black water or moisture coming out of the exhaust, once it warmed up it seems to clear up and go away."

Given what you said, I wouldn't hesitate to try a block sealer....
 
The RTV (or other silicone-based sealer) will only work on clean / dry surfaces; apply liberal amounts of PB blast and let soak. If needed, get some modeling wax or clay to create a small dam / reservoir around the frozen stud to ensure a good soak. Do not force under any circumstances.
 
billybronco1 said:
You guys probably will cringe at this but, I tried to free a few of the nuts and I'm afraid I will break a stud. One stud above the hole with the anti freeze in it is rusty and does not feel good when I try to loosen it with the breaker bar. My gut is the stud is leaking. Is every one against trying an engine block sealer? The leak seems to be very minor and probably only when its cold. I do need to do some more experiments.
Click to expand...

I would try a sealer, I've had good luck with them in the past.
 
I watched the video I'm not to sure about the fiber aspect of this product. I certainty need to consider the old radiator I don't want to clog up. I do run the car without a thermostat like the previous owner, so clogging that will not be an issue.
 
billybronco1 said:
Jseery, what products have you used with success? Was it a permanent fix?
Click to expand...

Don't remember at the moment, but one I used in a HP 427 big block required you to remove the antifreeze and flush it out a little with straight water. Then fill it up with water (no antifreeze) and the sealant and run it for some specified period of time. Then drain it and refill it with an antifreeze mixture. The engine had a leaking head gasket and it fixed the problem, to my surprise. Not something I would normally suggest on a HP engine, but it worked in a pinch. On a stock flathead I don't see any issue with trying a sealant. It is my understanding the the sealants only work on very small openings and are not an issue on radiator or heater cores or thermostats, etc.

Water Glass is an old flathead standby.
"Liquid glass" (sodium silicate) is added to the system through the radiator, and allowed to circulate. Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100–105°C (212-221°F), sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a remelt temperature above 810°C (1,490°F)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top