Found in oil pan

Roxo

Senior Member
What is it? Crankshaft pulley shim? :(
 

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Yes! Easy fix drop pan and re do, A chance to see what lurks in the oil pan! I see now Rear thought it was front!
 
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The shim mentioned in post 2 is on the outside of the engine, you wouldn't
find it in the pan. My guess is part of the rear main thrust.
 
okay so that is not it then.
This is in front of number one counter weight. I know its hard to see in the picture.
 
okay so that is not it then.
This is in front of number one counter weight. I know its hard to see in the picture.

But your picture is of the rear main?

Looks like it could be a piece of the trust of the rear main.

Here is a picture of mine.
40560385970_6ddbf4c588.jpg
 
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Well there I Go Bass akwards again. Your right Y-Blockhead.
Now it looks like the rear Main.
So it looks like its time to pull the motor?
 
Well there I Go Bass akwards again. Your right Y-Blockhead.
Now it looks like the rear Main.
So it looks like its time to pull the motor?


I would guess yes, at least pull the cap to see damage to bearing.

41645031084_eb50ebc4bf.jpg


Merry Christmas...

 
Yes looks like that's what i'm dealing with Y-Blockhead.
 

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Did you pull the pan because of an oil leak or knocking?
If running well and not leaking or noisy you might be able to leave well enough alone for a while.
To fix something like this correctly could get pricey.
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2246490102...3yE5IxBkYJ_1zQsOM9a42dhNrPzmrcDBoCBpoQAvD_BwE

Model A Ford Rebabbitted main bearing set on ebay. Can this be my fix without pulling the motor? or is it best to pull the motor?

That is Gene French's listing, and he is very knowledgeable. The issue he has at the moment is you don't know the diameter of the journal pin nor the end-thrust measurement of your crankshaft, ....so anything he would send you would be a crapshoot if it will help you. Therefore in my opinion you WOULD need to remove the crankshaft and have the crank correctly measured. If you do not have the proper metrology to do so, you will need to obtain that or find a capable shop that does have it.
 
I don't know any history on this motor other then the pistons were bored out to .080.
I only dropped the pan to see what sludge I might find. It was clean no real sludge to speak of. That was good until I poured Out the thicker oil and found what now appears to be the rear babitt falling apart.
So my plan as of now is to pull the motor and see what I find and go from there.
my plan was to some day take it to Antique Engine Rebuilding in Skokie Il to have them go thru it. But Rich sold his shop to a guy in Bluffton, IN. Not sure when he will open up shop. No shops in my area work on Model A's.
 
Thanks Brent.
I will check with Gene after I get the info he will need.
I will also check with local shops that build older model cars to see what shops they recommend if any for the model A.
 
Thanks Brent.
I will check with Gene after I get the info he will need.
I will also check with local shops that build older model cars to see what shops they recommend if any for the model A.

Let me offer you some (likely unsolicited) advice. As an A/B engine rebuilding shop too, we all can do quality work if we have the budget to do the job correctly. You mentioned using Gene's caps in your post above, so I responded. With that said, as you probably already know, that is NOT the best way to do the repair however it is one method, -especially if someone is limited on funds. I too have the ability to pour & machine caps just like Gene does, however, we are so backlogged on other engines right now (-over a year backlog) that it does not make sense for me to do this type work when someone else has that capably has that limited market covered.

So it is my opinion that you first need to define your goals on whether you are interested in repairing (band-aid-ing) your engine, -or whether you wish to restore it correctly. Then, IMO there is no real value in asking the opinions from other shops that work on old cars when you have some of the most knowledgeable Model-A mechanics here from all over the country (-including your area). My point is just because a shop can work on a Model-A does not mean they have the first-hand knowledge and/or experience to advise you to make prudent decisions. So why don't you layout the parameters in how you want to proceed and we can all advise you in what will likely be your best options based on feedback from first-hand or actual experiences.
 
Well Brent It would not take much for me to decide to have it rebuilt. I have rebuilt every thing else but the rear end. So far no problems there. I just ordered a new radiator from berg's. I have always thought I would get her rebuilt sometime in the near future. That time might be now.
So I guess My next Question is Who and were do I take it. You seem to be pretty busy these days.
 
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