Found in a Grain Warehouse Attic

A nice tudor driver in my area (Northern California) will go for between 8-12,000. It looks to me like you will spend at least $2-4,000 to bring the car to a nice driver. I might add that there could be much more than $4,000 spent should issues arise which I can not see from the pictures. There are too many unknowns based on what I can see from the pictures. I would keep looking for a car in better condition or offer a lot less money for this car.
 
Wonderful responses so far, and for the most part I agree with most of them.
My friend and I are going to look at it next Wednesday.
I've seen about 1/2 dozen cars as restorable drivers that are asking about the same, more than $5k but less than $10k.
Location is part of it, not having to fly somewhere to do an inspection and then either rent a trailer or pay a shipper to haul it home. All those things add to the cost, and can make a hometown car much more appealing.
He is definitely dealing with the wife factor..she isn't gonna want a bunch of boxes of parts and a dream of someday it will be on the road. If it can be made into a driver for under $1k so much the better.

Any further comments or suggestions, please keep them coming! Learning lots so far.
 
Scott H in Wheaton said:
Wonderful responses so far, and for the most part I agree with most of them.
My friend and I are going to look at it next Wednesday.
I've seen about 1/2 dozen cars as restorable drivers that are asking about the same, more than $5k but less than $10k.
Location is part of it, not having to fly somewhere to do an inspection and then either rent a trailer or pay a shipper to haul it home. All those things add to the cost, and can make a hometown car much more appealing.
He is definitely dealing with the wife factor..she isn't gonna want a bunch of boxes of parts and a dream of someday it will be on the road. If it can be made into a driver for under $1k so much the better.

Any further comments or suggestions, please keep them coming! Learning lots so far.
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In my estimation, that AIN"T gonna happen!! A decent battery will cost $100.00. New tires & tubes (+ freight) will easily be $700-$800. It looked to me like it needs a top. What happens when you start finding bad wood as you are nailing the new top on? Next will be a carb. rebuild due to the varnished gas, and then a new muffler assy. because the other one rusted a hole in it, then new wiring is needed, and yada-yada. All the little incidentals will nickel & dime you ...and then it still won't be safe and reliable until the brakes and steering have been gone through. You can easily spend your entire $1k budget just buying brake parts! What about the steering? What about the glass (non-safety glass)?

From my own personal experiences, and those from whom have been in similar situations, that car will look its best where it is right now. While you will be proud when it is in your driveway, that car likely isn't going to be an inexpensive fix. Best wishes to you in whichever direction you go!!
 
I would say 2,000-3,000. I know some would say that's ripping the guy off. But if you are going to restore it. Do it right and go through the whole car. And it's not like they are hard to find. Leave yourself a lot of room on the car.
 
agree this thing is way overpriced for its condition. on top of that to many unknowns motor, drivetrain?? plus all the incidentals brent mentioned and thats just the surface....
 
Some interesting comments . I like the idea of taking an experienced person with you ...pay him for his time and expertise , it might be the best money you will spend .

T
 
the one good thing I see in the photos is the absence of rust-through in the usual cowl & door locations.

even in the unlikely event that the engine is a good runner, figure $1000 or more for brakes, then $500 minimum each for steering and cooling systems.

then a set of new BLACKWALL tires, rebuild of carb, distributor and water pump + maybe generator.

you have already dumped a pile of cash in it without starting on the roof/wood situation or how much rubbish is in the gas tank.

if you want an $8000 driver, this pup is clearly not it.

$4000 might be fair or it might be way too much, you will not know until it's too late.

agree with Keith, for $8K a street rodder is the likely buyer..........
 
For a Tudor that's a lot of money in my opinion.. $4,000 to me would be a good price in. If it was a Roadster, Coupe or other you would be paying more. The good news is that it doesn't look like it was molested by someone before hand and looks like it was stored properly.
 
I'm not saying the car is worth it,just what I know it would bring here,where I am.In other parts of the country that may be high or low.If you open the door and find gummed together subrails or solid fudge body panels that would be a different story.We have an infestation of street rodders here that outbid each other when looking for projects so they really have been setting the prices.There are always some that try to say they only want the body,and try to buy just the parts they want.Some people try to chisel me down by telling me everything it needs,but I just say that's the price,needing whatever it needs.I never hover around people looking at things either.I point them at it,tell them I will try and answer any questions,and walk off.They can take their time,poke around,think,discuss amongst themselves,and talk themselves either into it or out of it.Sometimes I tell people if I don't sell it in a few years I will drop the price.There have not been any A's around here in that shape for $4000.in years.There will always be the rare score,but it is just that,rare.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Personally I think it boils down to seeing what is there and being experienced enough to understand what truly needs to be done. I see this as a car that honestly needs a total restoration to be anything more than a neighborhood cruiser or 'garage art'. It looks like many items are excessively worn to be safely used for anything else. Look at the front spring and see how it is sagging and leaning. Maybe optical illusion?? The radiator shell appears to be a reproduction and the front apron is missing. Rear bumpers look repro, the pop-out switch looks like one of those "Made in Spain" units that were too long and didn't work well. Looks like a Powerhouse lower water pipe, and the body aprons look like they do not have the hump?? Mismatched assemblage of a car using many 'Rick-pack' reproduction parts??? If so, what is the true value of that??

Bottom line, for anyone that wants to drive it and use it to go places, then it will need a new top, some major interior upgrades, probably some mechanical renewal and new tires/tubes. IMO, it really does not matter whether the car is this nice or whether it is much worse, the amount of restoration work is about the same. By this I mean, it really does not matter whether the present brake drums are worn just slightly oversized and still have some black paint on them, --or whether the drums are rusty and have deep grooves worn in them. In my view they are worth the same amount as they are essentially cores that need restoration (i.e.: drums replaced).

Look at the L/R fender. While it still has paint, it appears it has major issues in the bead area. Is it really any better than a swap meet fender that has surface rust all over it and a minor broken bead? The same mindset can be said for the engine. Even if this one runs but is worn out, --or whether it hasn't been started in years, the value placed on that engine should be the same. This is why I advise people not to get caught up in "patina" or by "barn find" looks.

The reality is very few people listen to that advise and falsely convince themselves this car is better than one sitting out in a field. Again, in reality both type cars are needing a full restoration and the costs of the restoration are roughly the same. The downside is this car will likely be sold for more money simply because of the "packaging" (i.e.: the patina). We all know in the world of sales, ..."packaging" is everything!! ;)

.
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Valuable information. I always tell people a new _____ costs the same reguardless of the condition or existance of the old one. Sheet metal may be an exception.
 
I very rarely get into these threads, while I read and learn every day from the Ford Barn. I was in a similar situation about 4 years ago and wasn't smart or knowledgable enough to find this forum until after I bought my 1930 CCPU. I paid $7500 for a car that had "been" mechanically restored, just need body work meaning paint.
I had no idea what the cost of the body work and paint would run to, and I think I got a deal from friend of a friend. I got the truck back last summer, and it looks great. Then I got around to the mechanical side and the "mechanically restored" part was a joke. The brakes seemed fine with lots of pedal pressure. It would stop fine rolling out of the garage, but when under power I almost ran it into the lake as the pressure was fine, but because the linkage was rusted tight! The "parking" brake had pressure, but turned it not shoes and no help stopping.
I've been reading religiously on the forum, joined a local club, and have been gong through everything mechanically this winter. I put about 5 miles on the truck before starting over last fall. The engine and drive train seem like they were rebuilt, but I won't know until I can get it on the road this summer and see what works and what doesn't.
The learning has been great, and I need something to keep me out of the wife's hair. However, if you think this is going to be a great investment I think you'll have way more money in it than you expect. In hind sight, I would have had someone more knowledgeable help me and bought a drive that I could have enjoyed while I worked on the cosmetics.
I guess it just gets down to why your friend want go buy it. Probably not a good investment decision, but if he wants a project that's probably what he's going to get.
Sorry for "rambling".
 
If my friend Brian decides to jump on this one it would only be if he can get a reasonable price on it.
He's been reading this thread and taking all your suggestions and comments to heart. He already has a show car, now he wants one just for driving.
Then, if he gets it home, we can work on it together. He won't be paying a shop to do tune it or work on the brakes, I can do all that. I can rebuild the carb if it needs it. I can do the differential if it needs it.
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I have a spare battery he can use. I have a set of 4 blackwalls brand new I decided not to use on another car so he could get those at a reasonable cost. If the trans needs rebuilding I'm sure I can handle that, here's some pics of the last one I did:

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He's just starting the serious search after looking for a few years. I'm sure he'll take his time and if this isn't the right car he'll pass on it.
I hope to post updates next Wednesday or Thursday!
 
Good luck! What I see, when I view your pictures, is more work and money to make it a good driver, than the car is worth. Now, if he can get the price down to a low price, then he might break even. A tudor is a very common Model A, and not worth top dollar. Look real close at the condition of the wood in the body. If it will not hold a nail, then there is a lot of cost, and work, to replace the wood. Paint, brakes, engine, body work, all add up to a lot of $$$$.
 
A buddy bought a very Nicely older restored tudor that ran and drove very well for 7,300 recently. It had been for sale for awhile at $8,500 obo. It has 1200 miles since restoration in the late 70's, stored inside since. It was started and driven short distances regularly. He drove it home.
 
Personally I'd be more interested in the asking price on the Cameo Pick up beds and sides, they may be the money makers. Bob
 
Hey Scot,
Wow, everyone needs a buddy like you ! Brian could buy the car and have you rebuild it...at your house, that way his wife won't know,eh;) !
You sound like the 'friend' that I'd take with me..if I were checking out this car to buy:).
I have one GOOD suggestion to add to all the price speculation/suggestions.....take the wife with Brian when he goes to examine this car...seriously! Have her read this thread also..prior to going. Women have an uncanny sense of worth after examining this input and then seeing the evidence/car in person. BTW IMO, it looks like (expect) a full resto will be needed which equals...big $ and hours to match. Caveat emptor:eek: ! Good luck !
 
Keep this in mind, no restored model A sold will ever get you your money back. If this A was free it would cost more to restore then what you can get out of it to have it painted and interior done and new tires would be almost 7 grand.

Now with that said what is it worth to you? I do not calculate the time I put into working on my car because I would just be doing something else that costs money.

I enjoy working on the car and my sons car that is priceless, I help others work on there car for not much more than lunch. I can spend my money on ammo, movies, drink etc and get nothing back on what was spent so why should working on a model A be so different.

Couple grand could do you, there are stories all the time about engines that have sat for years and when started work fine.

If you think you are going to flip it for a profit, don't go back! It looks by the pictures to be a solid car, but Gibbs on the body to keep it from rusting further, a new roof kit and a couple or horse blankets and your may me good to go.

To recap if you think like a businessman and how much can it be sold for when I'm done, don't pick a Model A! If you think like a person that would love to get his hands diirty, meet new friends ad have a ball doing so buy the car.

My Fordor is nearly priceless offer me 6 figures and you can have it so I can do another.
 
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