Fort Wayne Clutch

Steves46

Steves46

Well-known member
Good day. I will be replacing the pressure plate, clutch and throw out bearing for my 30 coupe. I understand Fort Wayne Clutch has an excellent reputation and I am looking at their complete kit (SKU: KT1523_R. Appears to be an excellent value also considering the $100 core refund. Has anyone used this kit? Any issues to be aware of?

Although I have not started the work, I see one of their notes mentions:
"NOT FOR FLAT CUT FLYWHEELS. REQUIRES A STEP STYLE FLYWHEEL WITH A DEPTH OF APPROX. 1.125" FROM MOUNTING FACE HOLES."

I believe stock Flywheels are the step style but not 100% certain; appreciate confirmation.
 
Steves46 said:
Good day. I will be replacing the pressure plate, clutch and throw out bearing for my 30 coupe. I understand Fort Wayne Clutch has an excellent reputation and I am looking at their complete kit (SKU: KT1523_R. Appears to be an excellent value also considering the $100 core refund. Has anyone used this kit? Any issues to be aware of?

Although I have not started the work, I see one of their notes mentions:
"NOT FOR FLAT CUT FLYWHEELS. REQUIRES A STEP STYLE FLYWHEEL WITH A DEPTH OF APPROX. 1.125" FROM MOUNTING FACE HOLES."

I believe stock Flywheels are the step style but not 100% certain; appreciate confirmation.
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Steve - Yes, that is the correct clutch for a stock Model A flywheel, which is indeed stepped to 1.123”-1.125”. That looks like a nice kit, including the plastic alignment tool. FWIW, I’ve not had too good luck with the plastic alignment tools, so it may work and may not. Once you get the clutch mounted, pull out the alignment tool, rotate it a notch, and reinsert. If you can get it to go into the pilot bearing from all possible positions you’re likely ok. If the tip is bent (like some that I’ve seen) you may have to go to plan B. I have a transmission input shaft that I use as a pilot tool.

Also, as long as you are that far into it, and considering the bizarre condition of your pressure plate (be prepared for the vendor to decline that as a rebuildable core, BTW) you might consider facing the flywheel. Be sure your machine shop takes an equal amount off the flywheel rim to maintain that 1.123”-1.125” depth. Pulling the flywheel will make it easier to replace the pilot bearing, too (your machine shop can likely press that for you while it has the flywheel for surfacing).
 
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Although I have not used a clutch from Fort Wayne Clutch, I prefer the clutch disk with the encapsulated springs like Bert's carries. Looking at the pictures on Fort Wayne Clutch website, their disk does not have the encapsulated springs.

Bert's disk
55129006314_6cceb006b7.jpg
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Although I have not used a clutch from Fort Wayne Clutch, I prefer the clutch disk with the encapsulated springs like Bert's carries. Looking at the pictures on Fort Wayne Clutch website, their disk does not have the encapsulated springs.

Bert's disk
55129006314_6cceb006b7.jpg
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Oops, I missed that. Thanks, D.

Steve, the purpose of the encapsulated springs is to be sure that the springs don't jump out of the disc during heavy loading/unloading cycles. You might call Fort Wayne Clutch and see if they can provide a disc with the encapsulated springs. Otherwise, Bert's (Modelastore.com) can sell you the individual parts - pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool (looks to me like Snyders sells the non-encapsulated spring type disc like Fort Wayne Clutch - maybe that's who supplies Snyders?) Having said all this, I've not heard of anyone actually having a clutch disc spring jump out, so this may be more of a theoretical issue than a real one. And Snyders is a known high quality supplier to the hobby.

The real issue is having the spring-equipped disc rather than a solid disc like Henry originally supplied. The springs help take up shock and make for smoother starts.
 
Thank you both for your valuable inputs. Given the benefits of the encapsulated springs, I will look at Bert's products. Will also take a look at Mike's as well.
 
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JayJay said:
Oops, I missed that. Thanks, D.

I've not heard of anyone actually having a clutch disc spring jump out, so this may be more of a theoretical issue than a real one.
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Unfortunately I have, more than once. It is not a pretty site. Fortunately, it wasn't my cars. :rolleyes: The one from Snyder's/Fort Wayne may be perfectly fine, I am just not willing to take that chance.
 
The original clutch disks didn't have springs.

"Spoked" center.

I've seen one of these on an actual disassembly. It got replaced with a spring version.

Joe K
 
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Since I managed to post this on the wrong thread, Steve from Bert’s informed me, they are no longer providing the encapsulated spring clutch disc
 
If you are that deep into your project, I'd consider replacing the flywheel ring gear also. It would be easier now than when every thing is reassembled. The old "one and done situation."
 
L-head said:
If you are that deep into your project, I'd consider replacing the flywheel ring gear also. It would be easier now than when every thing is reassembled. The old "one and done situation."
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Sometimes replacing things just because is a bad idea. Change what needs repair/replacement only after close inspection. If the ring gear is in good condition leave it alone. The old way a worn ring gear was treated was to turn it 1/4 turn on the flywheel so the starter engaged in a new spot. Good luck with your project and enjoy touring the backroads with your Model A!
 
Fy. Wayne was "the place" a long time ago. I would not allow them to supply a clutch for my Schwinn. Times change as do businesses. Ft. Wayne, sadly changed to a much worse business.
 
Kube said:
Fy. Wayne was "the place" a long time ago. I would not allow them to supply a clutch for my Schwinn. Times change as do businesses. Ft. Wayne, sadly changed to a much worse business.
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I think with that hard of a bash you should at least give some details, and a recommendation.
 
They used to have good rebuilt clutches. Now they no longer rebuild and sell new Chinese clutches. The pins on the fingers are not secure and can come apart while running.


John
 
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Spring clutch.... how big are they? I have one, and am wondering if it ever would even work in my car. Also, which direction do they go in?
 
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