fordamatic

With something pretty important like the frame cross bracing, if it's welded in I'm inclined to leave it like the engineers designed it. I don't have all those fancy certificates on my wall like they do.

Although I don't mind beefing things up, and am considering adding straps to the bottom of my '55 T-Bird frame like Ford did to strengthen the '56 Birds. If they thought it was a good idea I could too.
 
With something pretty important like the frame cross bracing, if it's welded in I'm inclined to leave it like the engineers designed it. I don't have all those fancy certificates on my wall like they do.

Although I don't mind beefing things up, and am considering adding straps to the bottom of my '55 T-Bird frame like Ford did to strengthen the '56 Birds. If they thought it was a good idea I could too.

It won't be welded in! I've done dozens of those transmissions as a Ford dealership mechanic. Not difficult at all if you've got a transmission jack.
Bill
 
It won't be welded in! I've done dozens of those transmissions as a Ford dealership mechanic. Not difficult at all if you've got a transmission jack.
Bill
The cross bracing under the transmission in a '55/'57 T-Bird is welded in. (photo below)
And in the original post in this thread the owner said the cross member in his car wasn't removable without cutting it out.
 

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The cross bracing under the transmission in a '55/'57 T-Bird is welded in. (photo below)
And in the original post in this thread the owner said the cross member in his car wasn't removable without cutting it out.

He's not working on a T-Bird.
Bill
 
bbroksr was a ford mechanic.who are you going to listen to.theirs nothing to cut.period.
What's the big deal?
It obvious to me that Ford made vehicles with and without removable cross members, that may or may not prevent removal of the transmission. It all depends on the year and model.
If it's a bolt in part by all means use it. If it's welded in I believe it's best left that way if you're only trying to remove & re-install the transmission. If you're modifying the car for something else, go for it.

He's not working on a T-Bird.
And it's not a '71 F100 either, but if the owner/person working on the car in question says it isn't a bolt-in part, what other cars do or don't have doesn't matter.
.
 
What's the big deal?
It obvious to me that Ford made vehicles with and without removable cross members, that may or may not prevent removal of the transmission. It all depends on the year and model.
If it's a bolt in part by all means use it. If it's welded in I believe it's best left that way if you're only trying to remove & re-install the transmission. If you're modifying the car for something else, go for it.

And it's not a '71 F100 either, but if the owner/person working on the car in question says it isn't a bolt-in part, what other cars do or don't have doesn't matter.
.
Then I guess what a 55-57 T-Bird has doesn't matter.
Bill
 
The cross member on a 55-56 Ford where the mount is located is a bolt in as stated earlier. Problem is that the way the frame is designed it has cross bracing behind the bolt in cross member and that is not designed to be removed. It makes it impossible to pull the trans out and lower straight down as you do with later Ford.

But it can be removed by tipping the front down first.
Bill
 
'Dont know if this help...55 Ford frames, X and box style. Both rear mount crossmembers are removable (I removed the crossmember in the wife's 55 Tbird just last night). But in both instances there is further framework rearward which is not removable.

The second image should cover the Victoria. From experience I can confirm removing the trans alone is very difficult on the Tbird and the Victoria is probably similar. The process on the TBird involves partially dismantling the trans prior to removal.

IMG_1696.JPG



IMG_1698.JPG
 
whoa there,i say whoa there Nellie....no need for anyone to get hot and bothered.
as I stated at the beginning a lot of knowledgeable folks on here and everyone has a valid opinion.we do need to remember it's only a hobby...and a very enjoyable one at that
today I am going to try to get the Vicky up on the hoist and have a look see and if time permits I will have a go at removing ******.
wex65 thanks for that frame schematic gives me an idea of what to look for and whereto look
remember guys be cool be happy
cheers joe
 
well guys have had a very fun :eek: couple of days...not only did I get my car up on the hoist but now have the ****** sitting on the deck...
firstly there is a removable crossmember the the rear g/box mount attaches too

but as you can see the extension housing extends some 6 inches beyond that over another non removable one....I think this is the one that I was told to cut...boy would have made life a lot easier

the flex plate just needing undoing

it's out..rejoice ;)...getting the top 2 b/housing bolts out was a drama..was surprised that the box only has 4 bolts attaching it..expected at least 6

and here is the offender...just needs a good bath and rebuild.....
whoever put this car together must have had a drum of odd nuts and bolts and used whatever he could find...everything was mismatched and even metric...now the fun of cleaning up underneath and sorting out some proper nuts and bolts.....I have a funny feeling:confused: I will be taking the motor out to reunite everythiong...but that's for another day and now it's back to prepping my other car for paint...thanks for looking and the help.

cheers joe
 
Good job. That frame does indeed look identical to the second image I posted above. Glad to hear you were able to remove it without doing anything drastic.

I took mine for a total rebuild a few months back. Reversed the truck up outside their shop. One of them, a younger guy, stepped forward to quickly lift it out of the bed before I could stop him. I think he thought it was aluminum and was ready for a MUCH lighter lift, boy did he ever get a shock. I saw him try to lift and the trans didn't move an inch. The other laughed at him, they knew. 230 pounds or so from memory. He then DID lift it (red in the face and puffing) to prove a point.

All the clutches were a mess/burnt. I will be firing it and the rebuilt motor up in the next couple of weeks.

Best of luck with your rebuild.
 
thanks wex65 your pic was a good help....230 pounds..who woulda thought....I woulda said 230 tons.

hope the fire up and drive goes well for you.

cheers joe
 
The two top bell housing bolts are actually very easy to remove or replace.Inside the car,pull the carpet/mat back on the tunnel area and you'll find two rubber plugs.Remove the plugs and use an extension and socket through the holes to work on the bolts.
 
paul that is some very good info....wish I knew it last Friday :eek:

I did have a look to see if the holes were there and to my joy ...they were so looks like the box can be reunited with the motor from underneath again
what a clever idea on mr fords part...many thanks

cheers joe
 
good news guys..got my box back today....big hole in the pocket...but that's what cars do to you.
apparently the box was completely stuffed inside and the ring gear on the converter was crap as well.....but all looks a thing of beauty now....gave it all a coat of paint to help keep clean....will take some pics at installation time.
when I ordered a new g/box mount I also got some new core plugs as one was rusted out and a oil filter adapter to take the z9 spin on filters....has anybody done one of these ???
 
hi guys back again with some good news and some not so good news :(

this is where I left off with the ****** just removed..yuck....so far good...

and here is the same beast all fixed up and looking good with a coat of paint to make it easier to keep clean..still good news
now for the bad news bit.....because I work mainly on my own when there is nobody around to help and a lack of equipment...the only way to get the box back in was to cut the crossmember as previously discussed....it was a last resort,with safety in mind.
before any cutting I took a lot of measurements and then did the deed.....with the centre out of the way I found that nothing had changed,no movement whatsoever....thankfully

same thiong but from otherside....used 3 bolts either side

and from further forward....in hind sight I feel that I should have done this right from the start.....making the whole deal so much easier and safer for someone like myself that works mainly solo and don't like asking for help unless absolutely necessary....would have like to doit with out the surgery but was not to be.
now I just have to wait to get a kickdown rod as the car never had one from when I got it.....I have found one but it is in Melbourne,3000 miles away....I have a bellcrank just got to wait for the rod now.
thanks for looking

cheers joe
 
hi guys back again with some good news and some not so good news :(

this is where I left off with the ****** just removed..yuck....so far good...

and here is the same beast all fixed up and looking good with a coat of paint to make it easier to keep clean..still good news
now for the bad news bit.....because I work mainly on my own when there is nobody around to help and a lack of equipment...the only way to get the box back in was to cut the crossmember as previously discussed....it was a last resort,with safety in mind.
before any cutting I took a lot of measurements and then did the deed.....with the centre out of the way I found that nothing had changed,no movement whatsoever....thankfully

same thiong but from otherside....used 3 bolts either side

and from further forward....in hind sight I feel that I should have done this right from the start.....making the whole deal so much easier and safer for someone like myself that works mainly solo and don't like asking for help unless absolutely necessary....would have like to doit with out the surgery but was not to be.
now I just have to wait to get a kickdown rod as the car never had one from when I got it.....I have found one but it is in Melbourne,3000 miles away....I have a bellcrank just got to wait for the rod now.
thanks for looking
 
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