Ford to Italia temp gauge
- Thread starter troutmalt
- Start date
miker98038
Well-known member
That’s an interesting topic. Pictures would really be nice. Was it originally a Cleveland car?
Ignoring Italian electrics (and I’m half Italian on Mom’s side), it would probably be best to source an oem sender that matches the gauge. You’ll have to do the “temp conversion” your head, but since boiling water is 100 C, that’s easy. If the senders aren’t available, you’ll need to figure out the “resistance” in ohms and go from there. Italian ohms and American ohms are the same (I think you can thank Marconi for that). There might very well be a problem with a metric sender and SAE threads in the head, I’ve no clue on that.
Do they sell replacement smoke for Farina gauges like they do for Lucas and Smiths?
Tell us more, that’s really cool.
Ignoring Italian electrics (and I’m half Italian on Mom’s side), it would probably be best to source an oem sender that matches the gauge. You’ll have to do the “temp conversion” your head, but since boiling water is 100 C, that’s easy. If the senders aren’t available, you’ll need to figure out the “resistance” in ohms and go from there. Italian ohms and American ohms are the same (I think you can thank Marconi for that). There might very well be a problem with a metric sender and SAE threads in the head, I’ve no clue on that.
Do they sell replacement smoke for Farina gauges like they do for Lucas and Smiths?
Tell us more, that’s really cool.
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The later Italias came with the 351 engines
Hey Mike - thanks for your interest.
It is a classic car and I am driven to keep the original gauges
I think the gauges are Jaeger. Limited production means what ever was in the parts bin they day they built the car.
Parts from Saab, Renault, Mercedes, Alfa, Aston Martin, Lucas, Volva etc - lots of smoke there.
Hey Mike - thanks for your interest.
It is a classic car and I am driven to keep the original gauges
I think the gauges are Jaeger. Limited production means what ever was in the parts bin they day they built the car.
Parts from Saab, Renault, Mercedes, Alfa, Aston Martin, Lucas, Volva etc - lots of smoke there.
miker98038
Well-known member
I get the desire to keep it original. Which means you’re back to figuring out the resistance the gauge unit was made to function with. This a$$umes (as K would say) that it’s not some other odd system like a King Seeley. But there’s others here that will do a better job of explaining that process, I’m sure someone will chime in. It’s been a long time since I’ve broken out my electrical theory books.
Neat project. Good luck.
Neat project. Good luck.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
OK, you have peeked my interest.
Are you in the U.S. or Italy?
What model year are you describing as there was no FORD 1968 302 K-CODE. A J-CODE was offered through SHELBY. 1969 was the first year of the BOSS 302. 1968 was not a good year for SBF performance.
So the manufacturer used FORD POWER?
EDIT -
- BEAUTIFUL CAR -
Is this the engine install?
Is this the engine install?
INFO - https://barnfinds.com/v8-powered-italian-1969-intermeccanica-italia/
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dmsfrr
Well-known member
I agree with miker. Your best chance at having the 'factory' gauge indicate engine Temp correctly would be to track down what was originally used for the sending unit and use or adapt that part to the engine as necessary.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
- UPON A CLOSER LOOK -
If that is the same engine as in yours, it is a 1968 F-CODE. It came through with an AUTOLITE 4300 SERIES CARB and if the DIST was OEM, it was IMCO with a dualing vacuum advance diaphragm (emission control) single point-set. That may be why the DIST was upgraded (it appears to be a MALLORY, the cap at the minimum).
The photo is poor quality so it is hard to pull certain things out.
Thanks Kultulz - I have seen dozens of pictures of Italias and have never seen this picture of an Italia prototype. Good find.
I am in the US.
I have a copy of the original purchase order from Intermeccanica to Ford Export in June of 1968. It is in great detail listing every Ford power train component on the car from the radiator to the ends of the rear axles including nuts, bolts and wiring. The engine has the K code exhaust manifolds but is not a Hi-Po as it does not have the solid lifters.
The engine pictured appears to be similar to mine what ever it it is.
I know what mine is from the purchase order to Ford.
I am in the US.
I have a copy of the original purchase order from Intermeccanica to Ford Export in June of 1968. It is in great detail listing every Ford power train component on the car from the radiator to the ends of the rear axles including nuts, bolts and wiring. The engine has the K code exhaust manifolds but is not a Hi-Po as it does not have the solid lifters.
The engine pictured appears to be similar to mine what ever it it is.
I know what mine is from the purchase order to Ford.
miker98038
Well-known member
Something similar came up on the HAMB. Doesn’t deal directly with your set up, but post 13 has a generic article on gauges. Might be something in there that helps solve the problem to find the resistance required for a given reading (like middle of the guage). Depends on what you’ve got, how savvy you are with an ohm meter and a variable resistor.
Good luck. Neat project.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sw-fuel-gauge-test.1275985/
Good luck. Neat project.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sw-fuel-gauge-test.1275985/
rotorwrench
Well-known member
I'd check the cars OEM sending unit if you still have it. It may adapt. A person could compare threads in Ford manifold for size. If the sender is small, a modified bushing might be possible. Find a plug for the manifold then drill & tap for the sender. Where there is a will, there is a way.