Im a bit Stumped, I have a 31 Coupe that has more steering lock one way that the other , I thought it would of been in the steering box but having taken the pitman arm off jacked the front wheels off the floor and turned the wheels though the range of motion its something somewhere in the drag links spindles etc . Bit stumped as to what is binding, Any one ever experienced anything similar?
Ford Model A Steering bind
- Thread starter Dom
- Start date
Johnny Nitro
Member
Do you have both king pin locking bolts facing the same direction? I believe they can go in either Dom the front or rear. You may have one installed one direction, and the other opposite.
Read your post again: is it binding more in one direction than the other or does the steering lock at different angles at each extreme?
Read your post again: is it binding more in one direction than the other or does the steering lock at different angles at each extreme?
Joe K
Well-known member
The test would be to take the drag link out first. If you can move the wheels by hand with no binding and can move the steering wheel with no binding - there is the culprit.
Ditto the tie rod next.
It may be the pitman arm/spindle arms need new "balls" where the links mount. You may find some improvement with the more modern "plastic" tie rod kits - which are good but require occasional replacement as the nylon parts are wont to "cold work."
Joe K
Ditto the tie rod next.
It may be the pitman arm/spindle arms need new "balls" where the links mount. You may find some improvement with the more modern "plastic" tie rod kits - which are good but require occasional replacement as the nylon parts are wont to "cold work."
Joe K
Had a poke round it today
Just to clarify I have 1.5 turns (at the steering wheel) left and exactly 1 turn right the amount of turn of the tires is the same when the pitman arm is disconnected from the steering box
The king pin bolts both are facing the rear but it’s not fowling on them .
All the balls are new or at least show no signs of wear
It feels like something is jamming the steering when turning right but nothing obvious is fowling
Just to clarify I have 1.5 turns (at the steering wheel) left and exactly 1 turn right the amount of turn of the tires is the same when the pitman arm is disconnected from the steering box
The king pin bolts both are facing the rear but it’s not fowling on them .
All the balls are new or at least show no signs of wear
It feels like something is jamming the steering when turning right but nothing obvious is fowling
Joe K
Well-known member
As you have a '31, you likely have a two tooth.
Sounding like the tooth contact/operating span is not "centralized."
In adjusting, one plays between contact and centralization. You change one and it affects the other.
The best description of sorting this out is in Victor Page's "Model A" book. He describes and uses pix to show the effects of the various adjustments. (there are only two actually - but you have to play the effect of one against the effect of the other until it is optimal.)
This is work that CAN be done in the car - but it is best done with the steering column out on the workbench. It will give you a chance to check out the rest of the box in the process.
The two tooth steering is interesting in that when one is at the mid-point of travel and "just jambs" (i.e. very tight) the clearance and pitman arm free-play increase towards the ends of travel. It's the front end geometry (self centering action) that makes this free play "invisible" to the feel of the driver. The trick is to make the free play as found "equal" in the full left to full right positions.
(unlike the 7 tooth where free play tends to wear to an increase at mid-position and is tighter at the ends of travel.)
Joe K
Sounding like the tooth contact/operating span is not "centralized."
In adjusting, one plays between contact and centralization. You change one and it affects the other.
The best description of sorting this out is in Victor Page's "Model A" book. He describes and uses pix to show the effects of the various adjustments. (there are only two actually - but you have to play the effect of one against the effect of the other until it is optimal.)
This is work that CAN be done in the car - but it is best done with the steering column out on the workbench. It will give you a chance to check out the rest of the box in the process.
The two tooth steering is interesting in that when one is at the mid-point of travel and "just jambs" (i.e. very tight) the clearance and pitman arm free-play increase towards the ends of travel. It's the front end geometry (self centering action) that makes this free play "invisible" to the feel of the driver. The trick is to make the free play as found "equal" in the full left to full right positions.
(unlike the 7 tooth where free play tends to wear to an increase at mid-position and is tighter at the ends of travel.)
Joe K
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