Ford Model A B97 Head Question(s)

SpencerM-EastTN

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Hello All,

I recently put a new engine in my recently purchased '30 Roadster.
The engine that I pulled from it was locked up solid and looked rough, so we decided that replacing the engine was the best route.

As my friend and I were cleaning up the garage to be able to walk through all the loose nuts, bolts, and wrenches...I noticed something.

The engine we pulled had "B97" on the head above the studs for the water pump and a small "Ford" script near the distributor hole.

Google says its a high-compression head, other sources say otherwise.There was no way to turn the motor and check the compression due to the condition of the motor. I haven't been able to check the combustion chamber to see if it has the traditional heart shape, which I plan on doing Monday (9/21) evening.

I just wanted to send this out to see if anyone has one of these or if there's any other information out there that I may have overlooked or not seen.

Thanks in advance,
Spencer
 
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The original Ford A6050B high compression heads had a large raised B on the top of the head indicating that it was a high compression head. I do not know about the B97 marking.

John
 
The gasket shape must match the head. B gaskets have a narrower passage-way between the studs down the center row of studs, and will hang out into the A chamber.
 
The gasket shape must match the head. B gaskets have a narrower passage-way between the studs down the center row of studs, and will hang out into the A chamber.

I'm sorry, for the life of me, I can not see any difference in the Best Gasket 509 (Model A) and 573 (Model B) Head gaskets, except the steam holes in the B.

Top Model B, Bottom Model A
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Stacked B on top of A.
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The shape of the A gasket by the center stud may not seal the steam holes in the B block. I imagine today that the manufacturers are using the B die to make all the A/B gaskets and just adding the holes to the B gaskets.
 

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Many many years ago, before most of you were born, I was rebuilding an engine on a Gravely garden tractor. It had the copper sandwich gasket, probably filled with asbestos. The instructions I got was to soak the gasket in water and use it again. I wonder if that would work on today's Model A copper head gaskets.
 
Yes,that is what the brit bike manuals tell you to do to anneal them.BUT,that is for the solid copper head gaskets,not the sandwich type.I had a BSA 650 head gasket on it's fourth use.Twice of a friends bike,and twice on mine.
 
The gasket shape must match the head. B gaskets have a narrower passage-way between the studs down the center row of studs, and will hang out into the A chamber.

I imagine today that the manufacturers are using the B die to make all the A/B gaskets and just adding the holes to the B gaskets.

If that were true, that all head gaskets are made using the B die, wouldn't the gasket "hang out into the A chamber" as Jim suggests?

I never use a B gasket even tho Snyder's tell you to on their 5.5 and 6.0 High Compression heads. Never had an issue.
 
I have seen instructions to anneal used copper head gaskets by heating and then quenching in water.

Yeah, as Keith said, annealing is only used for solid copper gaskets. I have seen people post instructions for "annealing" a composite gasket by baking it in a conventional oven for X minutes, but there's no legitimate science behind doing that.
 
Spencer, Thanks for adding the photos. From the photos the B97 looks like something the foundry added. See the round nail heads. It is likely a mark indicating which foundry it was cast in or a way of keeping track of the pattern.
 
I have re- used head gaskets multiple times ---simply clean everything thoroughly and put it back together..4 out of 5 times no problem. Occasionally it may seep but I would add a little sealer. Been working on A's over65 years
 
Spencer, Thanks for adding the photos. From the photos the B97 looks like something the foundry added. See the round nail heads. It is likely a mark indicating which foundry it was cast in or a way of keeping track of the pattern.
That is the number of the pattern. When casting high volumes there will be several patterns for the same part. The tag allows them to track down the culprit if bad parts start showing up. They are basically metal dymo labels that are tacked onto the wooden patterns.
 

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