Ford Laboratory Test Set

meric42

meric42

Well-known member
I attended an auction on Saturday and bought a Ford Laboratory Test Set model 'H-1'.

Whilst being quite dirty and having some surface corrosion it appears to be in reasonably sound condition otherwise.

It is however missing a couple of knobs and one rheostat so I am looking to contact anyone that may be able to help me with spare parts and possibly a manual so that I might be able to restore mine back to a fully functioning condition.

Thanks for any help or leads anybody can provide.

Meric.

As you can see by the attached pic a good clean is the first task and is now under way :cool:
 

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I thought I might try again with this inquiry as I have yet to source the necessary parts to get my unit functioning. :(

Thanks again in advance :)
 
No it is no longer as dirty as this, I have cleaned about 20+ years of dirt off it now and it looks a whole lot better, but still haven't got the parts I need for it.

Unfortunately being in New Zealand doesn't make it easy when trying to source these parts either.
 
Hi Meric,

That is very cool! I wish I had one of those. I have a friend in Sydney who may be able to get that up and running. I'll see if he knows of anyone in NZ who could help you out.

Do you have a schematic for the unit?

Andrew
 
i Have a copy of the Ford Service Bulletins which contain much of the information but finding a replacement rheostat (specifically the interruptor and Gen Control Rheostat) and 2 knobs are my major stumbling blocks at the moment, Thanks .
 
Here in the UK I have a fairly old (35 years plus) Snap On battery charger. I had to replace one of the rotary control knobs. After a lot of searching and pre-computer days I found one in the USA with a company called GRAINGER (?). They may be able to help?
 
For knobs i would try the electronic surplus dealers.
You have any clue what values you need on the reostat ?
Pics of the others may give a clue what brand/type/rating they are.
 
235081

A friend of mine owns this Ford Laboratory Test Set. It appears to be different from yours? Only the Name Plate looks similar?
 
The wood and glass or plastic cover is an aftermarket display item probably made by a handyman.
The test set could come with or without the distributor mounting. If you had one without you could order a kit from Heyer to install the fixture.
 
flatheadmurre said:
For knobs i would try the electronic surplus dealers.
You have any clue what values you need on the reostat ?
Pics of the others may give a clue what brand/type/rating they are.
Click to expand...

Apparently the Interrupter and Gen control rheostat is listed as P/N EGDAG (3. Ohm), this is what I have been told by another Ford Barner.

Cheers,

Meric.
 
You need to know aproximately what watt range you need to.
Attached is a 55w rheostat.
Can it be something like that ??
They are available over the counter but cost an arm and a leg so checking the surplus stores is healthy for the wallet.
If its a 6v unit only you should get away with a 25w rheostat.
The watt rating is based on that the rheostat should be able to take full voltage over it and survive.
 

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The two machines pictured are different models. The last picture is an early model
and the first picture is the later one. Skip has two of the later models he uses to set
up distributors on. I have one in Pa. but don't use it enough to feel qualified to do other peoples. One he uses daily and the second is a back up. He also has a proven master distributor he keeps in a plastic bag to check the machines once in a while to make sure they don't get off. A machine that is off will not set the distributor right to factory specs. It also takes a while to get experience to operate them. Most people can do it but it's not a machine anyone can install a distributor and set it up. It has other functions like coil testing and condenser testing. The manual gives instructions on heating the coil to do a hot test as well as a cold test. I don't think it mentions heating the condensers but they will also work good cold and not work hot. Coils are shorted on full 6 volts to get heated 10 minutes to get good and hot. Condensers must be heated by a heat gun or other method. The machine also has a vacuum pump and gauge to adjust the brake and to
see that the piston is not leaking and pulls up off the metal disc. These machines are
the best in my opinion to set up the 32 to 48 distributors. G.M.
 
I have the same model that needed a few knobs,i was able to order ones that were close to the originals from McMaster Carr.They also had the test lead wire.The only thing I was unable to find was the rubber that covers the alligator clips.The ones now availlible are made from a flexible plastic material.I am still looking for the rubber ones.Phil
 
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