Ford flathead valve ajustment sequence

[arc40s]

please advise what is FORD FLATHEAD VALVE AJUSTMENT SEQUENCE
which valves do you ajust with which valve open or closed?

 

[Willit Stop]

Maybe this will help.
http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm

 

[chap52]

I adjust INTAKE when same cylinder's EXHAUST starts to open. Set EXHAUST when same cylinder's INTAKE just closes. Suggest that you remove all the sparkplugs to make hand turning of the engine easier.

 

[37fatfender]

ICE.................as Intake Closes do Exhaust valve
EOI.................as Exhaust Opens do Intake valve

That's the way I do.

 

[Ronnie]

Google is your friend
https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en-..._occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&as_rights=

R

 

[Mac VP]

Try this:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead-Valvegrindlocationpg-1.htm

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead-Valvegrindlocationpg-2.htm

 

[GOSFAST]

please advise what is FORD FLATHEAD VALVE AJUSTMENT SEQUENCE
which valves do you ajust with which valve open or closed?

Easiest method we've found is follow the firing order, set both valves on that cylinder that would be firing!

Two complete turns of the engine, you're done. Doesn't get any easier!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. This method will allow you to double-check the valves already set by spot-checking all the previously set valves. If any change is felt on any already adjusted simply re-set it at that point!

 

[Jason in TX]

Not absolutely necessary, but very helpful. I used this very rare NOS Lee Cam Lobe Indicator. You attach it to the front like a distributor. It has numbers and an indicator on it. You rotate the engine and it tells you which valve to adjust next. Made the job nice and quick!

 

[Jason in TX]

There is a similar tool called "Acra Speed" portrayed on a 1953 hotrod magazine.

 

[Tim Ayers]

Not absolutely necessary, but very helpful. I used this very rare NOS Lee Cam Lobe Indicator. You attach it to the front like a distributor. It has numbers and an indicator on it. You rotate the engine and it tells you which valve to adjust next. Made the job nice and quick!

Yep. I got one of these little beauts as well. Mine must have been bead blasted since it's all aluminum. I didn't know they came painted. They will also work on a 6 cly. engine as well.

 

[Jason in TX]

Yep. I got one of these little beauts as well. Mine must have been bead blasted since it's all aluminum. I didn't know they came painted. They will also work on a 6 cly. engine as well.

Yeah. Mine came in the sealed box, so I know it wasn't painted by an enthusiast.

 

[Jason in TX]

I just got an Acra-Speed over the weekend and included were the instructions. I typed them out below:



Instructions:
There are two pointers. The pointer that is at the top of the engine when mounted on either 2 bolt or 3 bolt is the pointer you look at.

When installed on a three bolt cover, with the flat side perpendicular to the ground on the left, the pointer that is outside the edge is the pointer.
When installed on a two bolt cover, with the flat side at the 7:00 position down toward the ground, the pointer stamped into the base is the pointer you look at.

It would have originally come with a short adapter and long adapter on the back for the two lengths of cams. The short adaptor was used whenever the three hole mounted distributor was present. (with the exception of the cam being replaced) The long adaptor was used with the two hole mounted distributor. I'm guessing you only have the short adapter. They also had accessory rotating drums for 6 cyl Fords, 8 cyl fords and 12 cyl fords.

Installation of the Acra-Speed "CAM POSITION INDICATOR"

1. Determine the required long or short rear adaptor and install on the drive shaft of the “CAM POSITION INDICATOR.”

2. Install the "CAM POSITION INDICATOR" in place of the distributor in the position as required by the TWO or THREE hole mounting. Use bolts and loosely bolt the indicator to the cam gear cover using the proper holes in the back plate of the "CAM POSITION INDICATOR" Rotate the calibrated drum of the "CAM POSITION INDICATOR" in either direction while also slightly pushing on the cover plate until the offset drive key on the "CAM POSITION INDICATOR" engages the offset drive keyway in the gear end of the cam shaft. It is then necessary only to tighten the cap screws finger tight to put the "CAM POSITION INDICATOR" in service.

3) The TOP pointer on the "CAM POSITION INDICATOR" is now ready to indicate accurately and quickly the exact heel position of any cam on the cam shaft.

Two scales are provided on the drum for V type motors. One carries the letter "R" followed by a numeral, while the other scale employs the initial letter "L" followed by a numeral. The "R" index is readable from only the RIGHT side of the motor, while the "L" index is readable only from the LEFT side of the motor. When the "1R" index line on the drum is in line with the top pointer, the first or front valve on the RIGHT side of the motor is on the heel of the cam and in position for checking lifter to valve clearance.
The front valve on each side is indicated by "1R" or "1L" and the valves are numbered progressively toward the rear of the motor. WHEN ANY INDEX LINE ON THE DRUM IS AT THE POINTER, THE INDICATED VALVE IS ON THE HEEL POSITION OF THE CAM.

Rotation of the cam shaft while the pistons and crank shaft are in the motor must be handled by crank, wrench, fan belt or any available method. During rebuilding or complete overhaul jobs with the crank shaft and pistons removed, the cam shaft can be rotated by means of the drum on the "CAM POSITION INDICATOR"

Hope this helps!

- Oiler Elrod

 

[Ol' Ron]

I'm basically lazy, so I go with Chap52's method. Been uzing that for decades.

 

[Pete]

It is absolutely amazing at how much work is expended trying to complicate a very simple job. The easiest way to remember numbers is the sequence they occur in. 1,2,3,4,5,etc.
THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO REMEMBER WHEN ADJUSTING VALVES IS, IT HAS TO BE DONE ON THE HEEL OF THE CAM. This point is 180 degrees from the toe. (highest lift point) How you arrive at this point doesn't matter. A safe tolerance on this point is plus or minus 5 degrees.
Contrary to popular belief, the heel of the cam, (concentric part opposite the toe) can be very narrow, radially, on a performance grind leading to inaccurate adjustment with some adjustment sequences.

A very simple and easy method to remember is, start at number 1 and go right down the line NUMERICALLY. That means exhaust on one then intake on one, then do 2 and so on.
Rotate the engine so number one exhaust is open all the way. Make a chalk mark at a point on the front pulley. Rotate the crank 1 turn back to the mark. This will put the cam on the heel where you adjust the clearance on that valve. MARK THAT LIFTER BOSS WITH CHALK.
RUB THE CHALK MARK OFF THE FRONT PULLEY.
Repeat this sequence on the next valve.

As a side note, it is a good idea to check the heel runout on any cam before installing.
Even the big names screw up quite often.

 

[Talkwrench]

It is absolutely amazing at how much work is expended trying to complicate a very simple job. The easiest way to remember numbers is the sequence they occur in. 1,2,3,4,5,etc.
THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO REMEMBER WHEN ADJUSTING VALVES IS, IT HAS TO BE DONE ON THE HEEL OF THE CAM. This point is 180 degrees from the toe. (highest lift point) How you arrive at this point doesn't matter. A safe tolerance on this point is plus or minus 5 degrees.
Contrary to popular belief, the heel of the cam, (concentric part opposite the toe) can be very narrow, radially, on a performance grind leading to inaccurate adjustment with some adjustment sequences.

A very simple and easy method to remember is, start at number 1 and go right down the line NUMERICALLY. That means exhaust on one then intake on one, then do 2 and so on.
Rotate the engine so number one exhaust is open all the way. Make a chalk mark at a point on the front pulley. Rotate the crank 1 turn back to the mark. This will put the cam on the heel where you adjust the clearance on that valve. MARK THAT LIFTER BOSS WITH CHALK.
RUB THE CHALK MARK OFF THE FRONT PULLEY.
Repeat this sequence on the next valve.

As a side note, it is a good idea to check the heel runout on any cam before installing.
Even the big names screw up quite often.

I'm with you Pete, I'm doing it this way and not using adjustable lifters..

 

[41Joe]

Easiest method we've found is follow the firing order, set both valves on that cylinder that would be firing!
Two complete turns of the engine, you're done. Doesn't get any easier!

I used this method on a friends non-Ford car. It worked so easy and was actually really quick. Set the #1 first then its just a quarter turn each time. So easy.

 

[rotorwrench]

The old Ford info was simple but I don't know if the valves are centered on the heel or not. They may be close enough but I have no idea.

Valves Open /////////////// Adjust
4EX & 1IN---------3EX, 8IN. 6IN, 7EX, 3IN, & 2EX
3EX & 4IN---------1EX, 7IN, 5EX, 2IN, 4EX, & 1IN
1EX & 7IN---------8EX, 5IN, 6EX, & 4IN

 

[Mart]

^ That's the method I use above.

I might try something different next time if the heel can't be guaranteed at any point.

Mart.

 

[JSeery]

I used this method on a friends non-Ford car. It worked so easy and was actually really quick. Set the #1 first then its just a quarter turn each time. So easy.

Yep, doesn't get much simpler!