Ford engine green paint color

Here's a picture of the Hirsch paint on my dad's tudor:
 

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I always shake spray cans at least 1 minute and also often during long paint jobs.
Painting below 70 degrees does not work. Best to have parts and spray paint at room temperature, 70 degrees or above.
 
I've never had a problem with the engine green in a spray can that Snyders sells. With any paint, it needs to be properly shook or stirred.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
mpl623, I recently gave Rustoleum another try after 40 years of not using them. I like the Rustoleum semi gloss black for starters and generators. Be sure to shake the can well, and don't put it on too thick. Two thin coats with about 30 minutes between coats seems to work well. Be sure to have the part and paint at room temperature. I like to put the parts aside and let them dry for two or three days.

40 years ago I had to let my motorcycle frame dry for a week in the hot Texas sun before I could handle it, and wasn't happy with the charcoal grey look. That's why I quit using it.
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Thanks Tom - I will give that a try!

Matt
 
Should be getting some engine green from Snyder's today, (rattle cans), will let you know how it turns out.

Paint came from "MAC's", been ordering so much I get things mixed up, going to paint the engine and ****** this week-end, will post some pics when done.
 
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Tom Wesenberg said:
mlp623 your manifold looks good and just like the brush on paint I bought from Little Dearborn 10 years ago. They no longer sell the cans of brush on engine paint.

Your carb looks too shiney and charcoal grey. I have a carb with good original paint, and the best match I have found is by using Pactra 63 jet black. I've heard Pactra is gone now, but the hobby store should have an equivalent paint. It's a good paint that stands up to gas.
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Tom FWIW,

I found this, seems that Pactra is now Midwest.
Do not know if it is the same paint.

http://www.hobbiesr.com/137.htm

I really liked Top Flight in Flat Black for carbs ... Flat Black is also no longer made, as of 3-4 years ago, just the gloss.
 
I have found that any white pigment in a can of paint falls to the bottom first and needs a lot of coaxing to blend back for the proper shade. If not it will always be too dark. Shake those rattle cans 2 minutes after you hear the marble.
 
FrankWest said:
Sorry, I could not find my original posting.
What is going on with this engine green paint.
Just recieved ford engine green from Brattons...
It is almost BLACK.
Last time I ordered from Mac's and got Grey!
Does'nt anyone sell Ford engine green that is green like that shown in the 1933/1934 ford restoration guide?
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yes it looks black initially all you need to do is stir it really well, will still look dark but dries correct color..... I used it and painted my block and it looks perfect
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Just a thought of curiosity, ....do you suppose any of this has to do with mixing inside the can? Maybe the can was not shaken enough, --or maybe something has happened (frozen, excessive heat, etc.) after it left the manufacturer?

I will tell you that in Fine-Point judging, the rattle can available from most suppliers does come close in sheen or color of matching the original engine color or the chip inside the Paint & Refinish Guide. Never has.
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I have not bought sprays but brush on. I was able to stir the paint well enough to blend the mixture sent to me. Was quite anger with the gray from Mac's and the very very dark green almost black sent me from BRATTONS...
Perhaps the brattons would have turned more green upon drying?

My last chance....
Ray Nachewtc ... spelled it wrong.
He produced beautiful bolts and screws....Maybe he is a good with the paint...He calls it the real thing!!!!!
If he send me a bottle of Coke a cola I will just scream!
 
Frank, here is the Rustoleum semi-gloss black in the 2X can. That new 2X is pretty fast, so you can put it on too heavy and get runs if you aren't careful. The is an NOS Autolite generator for 1941 to 1950 Packards, but after 65 years of laying around it needed a fresh coat of paint. The original was even flatter black than what I just put on it.

In bright light the Rustoleum still has a charcoal grey look, though not as bad as it used to be. This is sunlight coming through the kitchen window, so you can compare the sun to the shade on it.
 

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The Snyders rattle can green has been fine so far. The whole job, engine and trans. takes about 2 cans. Be sure to get both at the same time and check the batch number on the bottom. Even in this day and age the shade will very from batch to batch.
 
Brent,

Did you mean to say "DOES come close" or "DOES NOT come close" ? "Never has" seems to be a non sequitor. Or maybe I just can't read.

W. Michael
 
When you purchase the paint, make sure you get enough for both the engine and the transmission. If you need more a couple of years later, you most likely will not get an exact match. Ed
 
Patra/Midwest paint is actually aircraft dope. That is getting hard to find - in fact may be discontinued. I buy mine from Brodak, who package it in small amounts for model builders. Brodak dope made by Randolph. You can also buy Randolph from Aircraft Spruce. I spray it with a gun, and the black works very well on carbs.
 
Just finished painting engine using motor green from MAC's, I think it will lighten up once it gets baked on during engine run.
I'm very happy with it.
 

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w.michael said:
Brent,

Did you mean to say "DOES come close" or "DOES NOT come close" ? "Never has" seems to be a non sequitor. Or maybe I just can't read.

W. Michael
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Let me say it this way, the rattle can paint that is manufactured by Hirsch and sold thru the vendors does NOT match the color chip in the Paint & Refinish Guide. Whether the P&RG book is 100% accurate as far as authenticity goes is moot, because it IS he 'standard' by which colors are evaluated against today.

Oh, and Yes, Roy's paint does match enough for Fine-Point if the gloss is knocked down a tad with flattener. For those who choose to have the correct color can take their P&RG book to their local paint jobber and have it mixed. Ask then to add a little flattener too if you are wanting total authenticity to replicate the original look.
 
To give it some contrast. Same as the white intake.
Is that incorrect? My first model A, had it less then a month.
 
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