Ford COE history

[horsinaround930]

The steering column bracing isn't stock.

The power take-off (PTO) is an add-on to the 4 speed transmission. One of the extra levers engages the PTO so that an extra drive shaft coming off the passenger side of the transmission starts turning. It should go to a hydraulic unit in the back to raise and lower the dump bed. The other extra lever controls the hydraulic pump to raise and lower the dump bed.

Tom

HA I knew that, I guess I never knew what PTO stood for... duh. It's funny being in the Navy I deal with acronyms everyday and probably don't know what half of them actually stand for so I guess this is par for course. And it does have the PTO for the bed with two levers.

 

[horsinaround930]

Ya got a nice truck there Horse ,I like the heavy bed ,Lots potential ,but a lot of work ahead of you ,The dash brass is a add on you can see were the dash mount is cracked you could strengthen the dash by a hidden beam running left to right underneath .Make it original as possible as it drove outer the factory ,Ted

Thanks, I like the way the dash looks in this truck so I will be repairing it and attempting to keep it as it looks. I don't know about original as I dont have a need for the dump bed and want to build it as a bike hauler. I'd like to chop the top and add some other custom touches but I'll keep it all within the idea that a guy in that era would have been able to build it. So it'll retain the factory running gear and I'll lower it a little by taking out a few leaves from the springs. I think it'll be really cool but still classy when it's done. It'll be getting the same paint as my bike is getting which will be turquoise and pearl white.

 

[horsinaround930]

I've attached a picture of a 1939 Ford COE interior. Although the 1941-47 COEs are similar, the running changes over the years makes them slightly different. The 1938s and 1939s are very close. This picture came from:

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/tag/coe/ (scroll down to find it)

The truck pictured here does not have the 2-speed axle (your truck has a lever near the floor to the left of the clutch pedal - that's the axle shift) and also it does not have a PTO. Your truck has 3 levers between the seats that I can see. Those should be (left to right) the parking brake, transmission shift, and PTO control. I think most PTOs were a single lever but some may have had 2 depending on application. I can't tell if there are 1 or 2 PTO levers on your truck as there are shadows in the picture.

Lastly, I'm not sure why the truck in picture I've provided is missing it's brake lever. It is possible it was removed or changed. My truck has a non-stock, short brake lever so variations exist.

Dan

I appreciate the picture, I'd be pleased if my interior looks half that clean when I'm done. Mine will have a mix of class and cool but cleanliness is key I think.

 

[horsinaround930]

Question, how many mounting points should the cab have? I'm counting 4 with the rear ones having two point each on the cab side. I ask because what I believe are the front mounts are missing? It seems to be just resting on the front of the frame. Just making sure I'm not missing something. My plan is to start at the mounting points replacing and repairing structure parts then brace the whole cab before removing it from the cab. I have the doors off and out of the way, and removed the grille shell and radiator to get a better look at things. This is going to be fun!

 

[COE Dan]

There was an article in "Vintage Truck" (Sept/Oct 2013, pgs. 36-38, author: Steve Albert) on the rebuild of a 1939 COE that states the following:

"There are six cab mounts in the back and only two in the front. The cab is located in conjunction with the steering column. If the cab is not set up properly, the steering column and dash will wind up carrying some of the weight. After assembling many old COEs, we decided that the front cross member of the cab was a factory weak point. When it fails, the front of the cab will wind up resting on the steering box. (pg.38)"

Likely your truck succumbed to this weakness (if in fact a design issue) or corrosion weakened the structure over time resulting in the bracing.

Also, you mentioned earlier on a possible chop. A word of note on chopping a COE...lots of artwork show chopped ones but I can't say I've actually seen a real one chopped. I'll avoid any judgments or opinion on changing the aesthetics as that is wholly a personal choice.
However, the probable reason for not seeing chopped COEs lies in the fact that there won't be much room for the driver. Unlike a '32 Ford coupe say, you can't stretch your legs forward or move the seat back in the COE. The pedals geometry exacerbates this and can't really be changed. These aren't light pedals to operate, you have to apply some leg to them - changing the geometry may make it harder to drive.
Also, your truck currently doesn't have seats (or enough of them left to measure) but the seats cause the driver/passenger to sit very tall in the truck. I'm 6ft3in and actually need hunch over just to see straight in front even without a chopped cab. At a traffic light, I can’t bend over enough past the steering wheel to see overhead traffic lights and have to rely on the corner lights. You could install lower profile seats but that brings you back to the pedal geometry. So, if you're thinking Pierson Bros. coupe...I'm thinking that's probably not going to work.
Dan

 

[horsinaround930]

Well I'll have to look harder, I'm not seeing that many body mounts but I have got into it far enough either so I might be missing something. I've thought about the ergonomics of chopping the cab, and this another reason I'm going to start at the bottom and work my way up. Once I have the floor and seats done I'll decide then. I'm a tall guy too but with all the work it's going to get, I may be able to gain an inch here or there and maybe justify the chop. I like the looks of it now, but I like the idea of it chopped too. I figure with all the sheet metal repair it's going to need, I won't mind knocking it out while i'm that far into it. I just have to figure out how I'm going to get the bed off for now, it's no good so I'll probably just start cutting. I'll try to save the dump components though and may even make the flatbed tilt. I'm just thinking out loud now. I'm just breaking it down now so I can really see what I'm working with.

 

[COE Dan]

Well I'll have to look harder, I'm not seeing that many body mounts but I have got into it far enough either so I might be missing something. I've thought about the ergonomics of chopping the cab, and this another reason I'm going to start at the bottom and work my way up. Once I have the floor and seats done I'll decide then. I'm a tall guy too but with all the work it's going to get, I may be able to gain an inch here or there and maybe justify the chop. I like the looks of it now, but I like the idea of it chopped too. I figure with all the sheet metal repair it's going to need, I won't mind knocking it out while i'm that far into it. I just have to figure out how I'm going to get the bed off for now, it's no good so I'll probably just start cutting. I'll try to save the dump components though and may even make the flatbed tilt. I'm just thinking out loud now. I'm just breaking it down now so I can really see what I'm working with.

To get it off, I'd use a fork lift. You might need to jack the bed frame off the truck frame to get the tines in but that would probably be the easiest, fastest way. Then you can put it wherever you want. You can probably rent one for not too much.