Ford banjo rear question.

zgears

Member
I'm putting my banjo rear together again and the axles seem to be tight in the carter housing. they barely turn (opposite direction) by hand. is there a rule of thumb on how tight they should be?
This a 37' rear, rebuilt with all NOS/New parts. 18 tooth axle, 12 tooth spider.


 
Thats how mine was with all NOS parts --have you tried the fit without the spyder gears ---if it moves easy with a very small amount of play(.003-.006)there won't be any problem with it ---if you still worry try different positions of the spyder gears, or one at a time to see if one is "larger" than the others, sometimes NOS parts haven't made it on a car because they are a little "off" --you have to remember that these gears should not be moving much, and if you can turn it by hand it's not jammed ---as long as the tightness is caused by the gear mesh and not axle to housing fit be glad it fits that way
A Mercedes diff is set up to have almost 100 foot lbs breakaway on a standard diff , to be adjusted with shims

Are you using silver antisieze for lube? ---i have found antisieze is only for non moving lubrication.
 
Zgears, The axles and spider gears can be checked during assembly, The spider gears should spin easily on the cross shaft and spin easily if inserted into the differential case and spun minus the axles. There will be slight end play on the gears as there is no axle installed . To check the axle, insert the axle in the carrier housing and ring gear and the axle should turn freely. Make sure the axle is not bound in the case as there is no support on the end. The best way to check the axle bearing clearance is to place the carrier on the axle and place the axle in a vice horizontally and then spin the carrier or ring gear carrier. These will spin freely but not sloppy with a light oil lube.

Upon assembly of the rear axle as a unit the carrier bearing crush preload is checked by rotating both axles at the same time to the front. If the axles spin freely there is not enough carrier bearing pre load, (remove gaskets). If the axles will not turn there is too much preload (add gaskets). The axle keyway should turn with enough drag to feel the edge of the axle shaft keyway grab in your hand palm before it begins to rotate. After checking axle carrier preload then check the pinion back lash and readjust gaskets as necessary.

*****This is a followup to your post of this same issue on the HAMB. Since it is outlines a little more specifically there. It appears that your axle shaft is not matching the tolerance in the repro hi speed ring gear. To check the clearance or determine where the bind is you will have to check each part of the differential, first check the axle to differential case clearance, the axle should spin free in the case when the axle is placed in a vise and the case spun on the axle bearing, repeate the same with the ring gear carrier. The ring gear should spin on the axle easily, If it doesnt then there is an issue with the clearance machined into the ring gear bore. Since you have a repro gear set and stock differential most likely the issue is with the repo ring gear. If you have close tolerances you can use a brake hone to open up the ring gear bore slightly. If your axles spin freely in both the differential carrier and the ring gear housing that eliminates those for error. Then remove the spider gears from the cross shaft and reassemble the carrier with the cross shaft in place and check to see if the axles turn. If the axles turn freely there is a spider issue, if the axles dont turn freely check the axle end play there should be about .015 end play between the axles bottoming on the cross shaft when the axles are pushed to the center.
 
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