Ford 4 speed top loader in a '36?

36tudordeluxe

36tudordeluxe

Well-known member
Anybody put a CE trans. adapter in a '36 using a 4 speed top loader without replacing the plate on top of the X-member? I've got the body on the car and can't see a way of removing rivets on top plate without removing the body. The tail shaft on the top loader is about 5 1/2" in diameter and am wondering if it will clear the original X-member top plate.
 
I've got a top loader with a Jeep shifter in my '36. I have a CE center section that I reworked to keep the wishbone ball intact. To get more clearance around the sump of the transmission, I cut out the '36 wishbone ball and replaced it with the same section from a Model A wishbone, it spreads the wishbones just a little for clearance. Long answer to your question, I don't think you can get to where you want to go without replacing the stock center section.
 
Can't be done with the body on the car. On mine, I removed the top plate A(body off) and reinstalled it after flopping it 180*. Made a nice tunnel for the tailshaft.
 
I agree with flatjack9, a friend has a 38 with same setup, body had to come off. He ended up flipping the top plate as well. Sounds like alot more work, but with the body off it's much easier to do.
 
i build a kit uses a ford 3 speed+O.D. toploader you leave the X member, but remove the rear trans mount and install the one in the kit you will also need to shorten your driveshaft and tube everything else bolts in.
 
Looks like we're all in agreement; the body has to come off and I don't want to go there. Wish I would have thought this out a little more carefully before having top loader rebuilt with the Jeep top shifter. Will have to put 4 speed up for sale. Thanks everyone for the advice.
 
When I removed mine body was off but still had to cut in half to get out.With all of the center section out, CE kit bolts to bottom.Just cut it out.
 
on a 41 pick up, it was time consuming, but i drilled a small, then a larger hole just slightly larger than the rivets in each rivet about 3/4ths of the way through the rivets, and used a long chisel to cut the rivet head off and a pin punch to drive the rivets out then i could pull the center X unit out and use the chassis eng 3 brace pieces when i did my T5. body was on. it just took patience and time.. don
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I could get in there with a plasma but that's not going to address the rivet situation; I need those rivet holes for the CE kit. I don't see how I can drive the rivets out from the bottom up as I can't get a straight shot at the rivets because of the frame.
 
I just finished modifying the CE top and bottom plate on a 36 without removing the body or cutting the floor to do the mods in order to install a 700R4.
The floor and firewall rework only provided marginal additional room to get at the CE plates.
I didn't want to cut up the brand new floor the previous owner installed and had no way to lift the body.
The rivets and Henry frame steel in general are exceeding hard to drill.
I found the $10 step drills from HF work best for the old steel and also bought the small HF right angle drill but broke 2 of them when the drill snags.


Many, many, many hours of eating cutting wheel dust and sparks - you do NOT want to try it without good topside access!
 
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