Foot starter button will not turn motor over

Rebuild that old water pump. Easy to do and it will give you a spare when that leakless isn't leak less anymore.
 
TMH1953 said:
Thanks a million for all the idea's and advice. Took floorboard out and disconnected both positive and ground cables. Cleaned both ends of cables and cleaned and filed where positive grounds on frame. Put her back together and she STARTED on First revolution of engine . Think the problem was a bad ground to frame. The frame was nasty and greasy where it was grounded.
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This is why I recommend using a second cable. Directly from battery to
Starter bolt. Eliminates several metal to metal connections.
 
Will repair old water pump
Additional ground wire. Can I use same gauge wire as you do for a 12 volt system ?
 
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Easy-cheesy
 
TMH1953 said:
Will repair old water pump
Additional ground wire. Can I use same gauge wire as you do for a 12 volt system ?
Click to expand...

yes, im using 2 short braided wires about 1/2" wide from each frame rail to oil pan bolts on either side of the engine. they arent carrying the full ground load so yes 12v cables is more than enough.

also braided flat wire straps will still look period correct and noone out there will know nor will it be obvious.
 
Clean the battery posts and put the cables back on 'snug'. First test to do.

I disconnected the NEG. cable once while I was doing some work around the fuel gauge. Press fitted it back on the battery and forgot about it.

The car started fine first several times and then nothing. I popped the headlights on and hit the starter button, wouldn't crank and lites went out. Thought ' bad battery' and/or dirty terminals. Cleaned both terminals they looked good. Battery was only 6 months old. Took battery out, did a load test on it, it was fine, put it back in only this time tightened the clamps and 'voila' been cranking every time.

I also read where running a loose connection like I had can cause a voltage spike which may toast your generator if you are running the original three brush set-up not an Electronic Voltage Regulater, an EVR, in place of the third brush. Tom Wesenberg will know the facts on that.
 
Thanks IMG_0777.jpg
 

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My short ground (Pos.) cable runs to a hole in the chassis, not to the crossmember, I put a secondary ground to a bolt that holds the starter into the flywheel housing. The effect was dramatically good! The starter spun a little faster and the charge lasted longer. I recommend it to anyone who is not building a points car. There are several ground paths through the chassis, even the throttle linkage. All are subject to rusting over the last 85+ years. as they rust, the electrical continuity diminishes and you can get slow or no cranking. Also, the words to live by with electricity are "Clean, Bright, and Tight".Also, having the right sized cables helps a lot. I would not use 12V cables.
Terry
 
Pleased to hear you got it fixed my 28 phaeton has just developed the same fault . I put the headlights on and when I pressed the starter the lights went out . This indicated a short in the starter itself so I pulled it and on the bench it works fine . The commutater was very dirty/greasy so I cleaned it and used 400 grit to burnish it . Right now I am rotating it incrementaly to check if I have a bad patch that goes to earth (if that is technically possible) . My battery cables and cable from motor to frame are new . Should finish rotation check today and if all OK I will pop it back and see what happens . If still no good it will be back to the hand crank but it has the AF small bore engine so will swing more easily .It has the multi disc clutch so I cant do a starter motor swap as I dont have another early starter . SIGH .

John in very cold Suffolk County England .
 
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That still sounds like a bad connection' Double all four connections and make sure they are tight. I ran into one where the crimp to the cable was bad and we chased a ghost for a long time before we found it.
 
External star washers on both ends of the ground straps/cables help immensely. In fact they help at all connections.
 
Really nice looking Model A.....and that green park setting looks inviting this time of year!

I used the cable offered by the vendors when installing a battery disconnect switch. The switch is between the battery and frame (positive side) and the extra cable runs to the top starter bolt.

Various installations are shown here..

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3654

Here is the switch. Most put it on the positive/frame side of the battery instead of where Bratton's suggests.


https://www.brattons.com/electrical-disconnect-switch.html

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