Flywheel

JSRTUDOR

JSRTUDOR

Senior Member
Hi everyone, I need to replace my flywheel because about a third of the teeth are broken off. Is it easier to remove the engine and leave the transmission in place, remove the trans only or pull the engine and trans at the same time and pull them apart on the ground? Thanks!
 
Gary WA said:
Id remove engine leave ****** in place!
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Ditto. This way you can work on the flywheel more comfortably. You don't actually have to replace the whole flywheel. The ring gear is removable, and you can buy replacement at the usual vendors.
 
To just drop the trans it is necessary to pull back the rear axle. With the trans out it would be a good time to consider a U-Joint, clutch disk, throw out bearing change (if worn at all), and maybe install o-ring shafts in the trans to minimize oil leaks. No good short cuts - just a matter of personal choice. If you are "seasoned" like most of us, a young helper is recommended. Good Luck.
 
I am in the process of removing a flywheel right now, and I have taken the engine out to get at it. The flywheel is too heavy (62lbs) and too cumbersome to manipulate with the engine in the car. There are 2 guide pins, 4 safety wired bolts and a special ring washer connecting the flywheel to the crankshaft.

Once the flywheel is out, you will need to remove the worn starter ring gear and install a new one. The ring gear is an interference fit.

While the engine is out of the car, I highly recommend that you also consider:
1. Replacing the pilot bearing;
2. Replacing the clutch throw-out bearing, replacing its spring & greasing the bearing;
3. Replacing the clutch disk;
4. Replacing the felt above the radius rod joint because the existing one may be saturated with oil;
5. Cleaning the Bendix hardware out of the bottom of the flywheel housing.
 
JSRTUDOR said:
Hi everyone, I need to replace my flywheel because about a third of the teeth are broken off. Is it easier to remove the engine and leave the transmission in place, remove the trans only or pull the engine and trans at the same time and pull them apart on the ground? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Is there a reason you are replacing the flywheel instead of just installing a new ring gear?

Charlie Stephens
 
I have found it easier to support the frame safely pull the back axle back and remove the trans way quicker than an engine out job (for me anyway) Remove two of the wired bolts and screw in two of the long head stud bolts( the ones that hold the water neck on) the fine thread end is the same thread as the crank flange thread . Remove the remaining two bolts and you can slide the flywheel off with total control supported by the two head studs set at 3 o,clock and 9 o,clock Use the same method to re install the flywheel with new ring gear fitted ,you cant go wrong !!! (Trust Me)

John in lovely warm sunny Chandler AZ ( long range snowbird )
 
I would go the same route (actually, I did to do a clutch change). When the plywood floor sections are removed, acess to the flywheel is actually pretty clear once the trans is dropped.
 
Well I have a spare flywheel and ring gear attached to my spare engine, but was more interested in how to remove the pair from the car the easiest way.
 
It appears to be split down the middle, some for trans, some for engine. I guess it comes down to preference and what bolts are seized on the car!
 
Depends on if you have help. If you are by yourself pulling the rearend and trans is easier for me.
 
When reinstalling my engine a few weeks ago it took three of us over four hours to get the transmission shaft splines into the U joint. No clue why. With it out of the car everything went together easily. In the car that splined shaft just refused to go into the U joint.
 
Chris Haynes said:
When reinstalling my engine a few weeks ago it took three of us over four hours to get the transmission shaft splines into the U joint. No clue why. With it out of the car everything went together easily. In the car that splined shaft just refused to go into the U joint.
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It is all about the angle. I was taught to take a pare of channel locks to grab onto the U joint to turn it while somebody else pushes the rear end up First few times I did I had a lot of trouble. The last time I did it it was done in a few minutes.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
I am in the process of removing a flywheel right now, and I have taken the engine out to get at it. The flywheel is too heavy (62lbs) and too cumbersome to manipulate with the engine in the car. There are 2 guide pins, 4 safety wired bolts and a special ring washer connecting the flywheel to the crankshaft.

Once the flywheel is out, you will need to remove the worn starter ring gear and install a new one. The ring gear is an interference fit.

While the engine is out of the car, I highly recommend that you also consider:
1. Replacing the pilot bearing;
2. Replacing the clutch throw-out bearing, replacing its spring & greasing the bearing;
3. Replacing the clutch disk;
4. Replacing the felt above the radius rod joint because the existing one may be saturated with oil;
5. Cleaning the Bendix hardware out of the bottom of the flywheel housing.
Click to expand...

If the clutch is operating smoothly now and has little wear, you might be better off re-using it. A lot of new stuff is junk!
 
It is easier for me to have the engine out of the car. The studs that attach the manifolds can be used to guide the flywheel in and out by using two of them in place of the bolts. If you replace the clutch (the ones from the vendors are actually good) then you will need an inexpensive alignment tool, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=979061&cat=41664

The V8 pressure plate and the lightened flywheel are good modifications. Don't forget to readjust the clutch for 1 inch free play.
 
I'd remove the engine! 63 lbs isn't bad when you're standing in front of it, but it can be a devil when you're working at eye level.
To remove the ring gear, use a propane torch. Heat the ring gear only working around it and a lead or brass hammer to drive it off. But before you do this, take note how the gear's teeth are situated, bevel to the rear of the flywheel. It's counter intuitive. But the model A's bendix engages rear to front. Now it's time to reassemble. Put the ring gear in the gas grill at 400 deg. Put the FW in the freezer for an hour or so until it's cold to the touch. Now you must work quickly! Oil the surface where the ring gear sits and with good gloves on press it on as far as you can and hammer the rest of the way with a lead or brass hammer! Viola! The job is done! Now reassemble in reverse order. Not simplest of model A jobs , but not bad either! Yet many are afraid of it. They think they'll over heat the ring gear. I really doubt it gets much over 350 Deg. in a gas grill. I doubt anything under 500 deg. will affect it much. When putting it together, you must work quickly. The temperatures want to equalize. Other than that, it's easy. The worst part is getting at it.
Terry
 
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