? Flywheel Ring Gear ?

Neil Wilson

Neil Wilson

Well-known member
Three questions:

1. Is the ring gear on the flywheel the same for both the multiple disk clutch and single disk clutch?

2. For replacing the ring gear - is it recommended to pull the engine or back off the rear axle and pull the transmission/bell housing?

3. The old ring gear can be tapped off the flywheel. What is the best procedure for installing a replacement ring gear?

I believe the A-6384 ring gear is the same. And, I would guess that pulling the engine would make it easier to pull and replace the flywheel.
 
1. Yes.

2. Much difference of opinion about this. I would pull the trans as I feel the reduced risk of damaging fenders/radiator/headlights/paint etc is worth it even if pulling the rear and trans is a bit harder--and I'm not sure that it is.

3. Put the gear in the oven at highest setting leaving it for another 15-20 minutes after the oven has come up to temp. Have the flywheel close to hand, and drop the ring gear in place. it should fall right into position, but I keep a hammer and brass drift handy in case it needs persuasion. Don't bother putting the flywheel in the freezer as the difference between ambient temp and 0 degrees doesn't change the flywheel size enough to be worth the trouble. Of course, if it's 0 degrees outside anyway, leaving it out overnight can't hurt.

Joe
 
Make sure you are clear which side of the ring gear faces the clutch/pressure plate before you install the new one. The flat side is on the engine side. Bob
 
I wouldn't take a chance using your wifes oven, wait till she goes out and the use the barbeque! That way its outside and any burning or smoking oil will not pollute the house. Same time, less consequences!
 
I only performed this once on a 1952 Ford 8N tractor. I used the oven to heat the ring gear (It was new and clean) I split the old ring gear with a cutoff wheel in my 4'' grinder. I went most of the way through and split what was left with a cold chisel to spread it ( as a wedge, not as cutting tool) I chilled the flywheel in the freezer (it was July) and dropped thhe hot ring gear on. Have your brass or lead drift handy and
move quickly. The temperatures equalise very quickly. You don't have any time to play with it. I jacked up and split the two halves of the tractor at 2 pm. I was done and had it running again at 7! I thought it would be huge cluster "Dance" getting that thing back together, but it went easily.
BTW The Ford 8N engine always stops at the same position and that's where the wear is. The rest of the ring gear is fine. Is this true of Models too?
Terry
 
I had a flywheel ring gear walk forward and jam up the starter. I was able to tap it back into place through the starter mounting boss and tried to force some lock tight under and peen it into place, but it walked out again.

I took the flywheel to an auto machine shop and had them press a new ring gear on and had them drill and tap three set screw holes around the circumference and lock tight the screws. I also had them balance the flywheel and clutch assembly.

Tom Endy
 
Yes, only one ring gear was used for all Model A's.

I do it the same as Joe, except I use a torch instead of the oven to heat the ring gear.

From now on I'll also use a torch to heat the old gear to make it easier to remove.

Be sure to wear leather gloves!!!

I can still feel the bone chip in the thumb where I smashed it about 8 years ago while using a brass rod and 3 lb hammer to remove the old gear cold. :( Chisel holders DO serve a good purpose!
 
I use a 10 inch chisel to drive the old gear off. I just tap it (hard) off and turn the flywheel over, face down. I use a weed burner to heat the new ring to about 400 degrees and drop it onto the flywheel. If you do it this way you have a little time to adjust the ring but not too much time.

I do this a lot, 25 or 30 times a year, so I found this is the best way for me. I did 2 this morning in about 20 minutes. Got 4 more to go.
 
Terry, this phenomenon is typical of all multi-cylinder engines, especially those of high mileage. More times than not the flywheel will come to rest at the cylinder having the highest compression. And so the starter pinion has to engage the ring gear at that position more frequently that at any other place - therefore more wear!
 
Adding to an old thread here rather than start a new one.
A fellow Model A-er had his ring gear come loose. It didn't fall off, just spun on the edge of the flywheel. It was trapped there by the back of the engine.
We got it back on by:
- Taking spark plugs out
- Hand cranking the engine while holding a screwdriver wedged between the bell housing and the ring gear to gently get it "started" back on all the way around.
- Increased leverage on the screwdriver while spinning the engine until it was too hard to crank.
- Switched to a wood block and hammer, tapping lightly as the engine was cranked over and over.
- Increasing tapping as gear was getting fully seated. Needed fairly hard taps to get it all the way home.

My question: Was this "too easy", meaning, is the gear just going to come off again? We cranked it a bunch trying to solve spark and gas issues after that and all was fine for that much use anyway.
 
I used the Bar-B-Q method on my flathead ring gear. Worked great. I did get some feedback about overheating the ring gear. But 5 minutes on the hot coals didn't change the color of the ring gear and it dropped right on the flywheel.

There are several You Tube Videos on the subject, including the Bar-B-Q method.
 
Tom Endy said:
I had a flywheel ring gear walk forward and jam up the starter. I was able to tap it back into place through the starter mounting boss and tried to force some lock tight under and peen it into place, but it walked out again.

I took the flywheel to an auto machine shop and had them press a new ring gear on and had them drill and tap three set screw holes around the circumference and lock tight the screws. I also had them balance the flywheel and clutch assembly.

Tom Endy
Click to expand...

I've used Loctite to stop a ring gear moving with great success, in fact, it worked better than I expected. Maybe you tried the wrong grade. I used #290 - that's the wick in one for post assembly application. A few drops around the gear and watch it disappear into the gap like magic. No need to force it in. I realise you won't want to experiment on a customer's car but give it a try sometime.
 
I like the 290 idea. I'll pass it on. Thx.
I do sort of like the weld idea too. It seems like a few evenly spaced beads right next to the ring would prevent it from coming off and could be ground off if the gear ever had to be replaced.
 
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